I was looking at a 336 but I ended up getting a henry 3030 sidegate
Lever action or bolt action for beginner hunter
- Thread starter CoverFire
- Start date
I was looking at a 336 but I ended up getting a henry 3030 sidegate
Ok so what kind of eye relief am I looking at out of a henry 3030.
I read with a lever usually people keep the magnification down. Or even go for a fixed scope
What is a fair price scope I can purchase that won't break the bank and be dependable.
I like vortex's warranty. Very appealing. They also have a nice AR optic I like but I don't fully understand eye relief as mentioned so I don't know if that optic will work. Do certain rifles come factory with a " preset" eye relief or does it change for each individual user ? How can I trust anybody references if each scope is based on there handling/ cheek positioning
I read with a lever usually people keep the magnification down. Or even go for a fixed scope
What is a fair price scope I can purchase that won't break the bank and be dependable.
I like vortex's warranty. Very appealing. They also have a nice AR optic I like but I don't fully understand eye relief as mentioned so I don't know if that optic will work. Do certain rifles come factory with a " preset" eye relief or does it change for each individual user ? How can I trust anybody references if each scope is based on there handling/ cheek positioning
blasted_saber
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- A blue part of Ontario
Agreed!
The one scope I like for a lever is a Leopold 2-7 vx1 which they don't make anymore. size suits a lever very nice. ive now gone receiver mounted peep on my Marlin gg and a holosun 403c red dot on my chiappa 45-70. Its the same price of a lower end scope and is a great 2 eye open sight picture for woods hunting. Really nice red dot.
bell used a 7x75/ 275 rigby with a military fmj round nose of 11.2 grams and mostly before first world war and hunted his last elephant in 1939 ... we had never knwon the number of elephants lost during his carreer ...
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
I’ve personally witnessed .270 drop whitetail bucks and black bears in their tracks, another buddy hunts elk with his. Plenty of power in that cartridge, it’s a great cartridge.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
As I understand it, "eye relief" is the point where the lenses focus the light that comes through the scope - to use, that point needs to end up on your retina in your eyeball. Take a scope and lay it on a table. Shine a flashlight into it from the front end - then take your hand, a block of wood, or a piece of cardboard and hold it at right angles behind the eye piece. You will see a brighter circle of light on it. Move that piece closer or further from the scope. You will see it get larger when too close to scope, then get smaller, then get larger again. Back and forth until you get the circle into the tiniest point that you can get - when "perfect", can often see the filament from the flashlight in that image - in that tiny "dot". Now measure from rim of eye piece to that "dot" - that is your "eye relief" - the distance that your retina has to be to receive that light. Old school inexpensive Weaver 3/4" or 7/8" rimfire scopes might be 1/2" to 3/4" - Leupold and Burris centerfire scopes might be 4 to 6 inches, and that distance might change as the power is changed on a variable power scope. Is mostly of concern about recoil - when fired, almost every rifle is going to "come back". Ideally, your head goes with the cheek piece so, no contact made. But hurried shooting can result in rifle and scope "coming back" and head staying still - with inadequate eye relief and healthy recoil, can earn the "eyebrow scar"...
I will likely be a bit of a "heathen" for scope recommendations. I would view the 30-30 as a realistic 150 yard deer rifle, possible could be stretched to 200 yards and likely work fine. It is not a 400 yard hunting rifle. So, my choice would be an older Weaver straight tube - the "dash 1" series should be water proof and sealed, and for shorter range and in the bush I really like their thin horizontal wire with a vertical tapered post. The tip of the post is just a bit above the cross hair - place that tip where you want to hit and fire. Finn Aargaard had a Weaver straight tube on his .375 H&H for 30+ years and it worked fine for him, albeit he did not see much freezing temperature, I don't think. So, I would look for a K2.5-1 or a K3-1 with a Post reticle. For some people it matters, but the WWII "T" sniper rifles had 3 power scopes. I see these Weaver scopes going in the $100 to $150 range on CGN. The 60 series, 60B and 60C series were not sealed, so far as I know. Higher end, more robust ones will have the words "Micro Trac" on the left side of the top turret.
Keep in mind for deer hunting - to kill that deer, need to put a bullet anywhere into about a 10" diameter heart-lung kill zone, with your first cold barrel shot. Do not have to see or hit a specific hair on it's side. Put a good bullet into the kill zone and you will likely be cutting your tag. No need for much magnification with a 30-30.
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Eye relief is a property of the scope.
In your neck of the woods, shots will be typically 100 y or less. So a low power scope is preferred, think red dot or 1.5 -4 x. This gives you optimal Field Of View, and rapid target acquisition. Think Leupold VX II or VariX II or current equivalent.
If the gun requires that you have to mount the scope relatively forward in the action, then you need a scope that offers suitable eye relief. For example - a scout mount requires a pistol scope with a large eye relief, say 10 inches.
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- Location
- Western Manitoba
For "scout" mounting, probably want an Intermediate Eye Relief scope - IER - a Scout scope - as above, about 10" or so of eye relief - Leupold, Burris and others make or made them. A Long Eye Relief - LER - scope tends to be a "pistol" scope - think of a handgun at arms length - sort of 20" plus eye relief.
saskgunowner101
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- near Prince Albert
If you're talking about eye relief in the sense of "close enough to my eye to see the whole field of view, but not so close to scope myself", there's a simple solution. Mount your scope in the rings somewhat loose. Sitting at the shooting bench looking through the scope as if you were shooting, move your scope forward while looking through it until it starts to blacken on the outer edges of the scope. Now bring it back just a touch. This is your max eye relief with whatever scope you have. You can even do this lying prone, if you're the kind of guy to drop down and shoot prone off of a jacket. Off a bench should be fine though, but you'll see what I mean. The 30-30 doesn't kick that much, so max eye relief isn't as important, as long as you don't crawl your scope.
My vote goes to a Ruger #1 in 270. The round can take down anything in North America but is easy enough to learn to shoot and control.
The single shot is probably the best way to teach a new shooter the skills needed and the mindset that one shot should be all you need. None of this spray and pray shooting. S/he would rely more on hunting skills than shooting skills.
The single shot is probably the best way to teach a new shooter the skills needed and the mindset that one shot should be all you need. None of this spray and pray shooting. S/he would rely more on hunting skills than shooting skills.
I would recommend using 30/30, 30-06, 308 etc well over 357 or 44 mag for deer, especially if you are looking at a 200 yard shot, for 1300 all in you could find a nice BLR in 308, and that would be my pick of what you mentioned in terms of a lever, if looking at bolts too, Id recommend a tikka t3 in 308, but for 1300 you have a huge array of choices, Definitely visit your local store to get the feel of the rifles you are interested in, you may find you prefer drastically the way one rifle feels/handles vs others you researched online. for hunting stick to the lower end of the magnification ranges on scopes. a 3 power or less for those up close shots,
