Light loads for older guns

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Anyone tried the lighter loads? I have a couple of older doubles and was wondering about these loads. Any info would be appreciated. Thx
 
12 gauge bird loads. One gun is a 1955 vintage German O/U the other is a 1962 Italian side by side both are in pretty good shape. Just think that reduced loads might be the way to go.
 
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The lightest commonly available 12ga. 2 3/4" loads are 1oz. trap loads, which should work fine for upland bird hunting. These will produce less recoil than heavier field loads. A shop I visited recently had flats of 12ga. 2 3/4" 1 1/8oz. #7 1/2 shot cartridges @$50. These would also be good lighter loads.
As far as loads for older doubles go, if the gun can't be used with the loads for which it was designed, it probably shouldn't be used at all. If the gun has welded barrels, then there will be many different opinions about what is appropriate.
 
The 0/U has a slight crack at the tang nothing serious just thought lighter loads might be better
 
Easy enough to repair, without it showing from the outside. If the crack is structural, continuing exposure to recoil is going to make it worse.
 
How do you repair the hairline crack behind the Tang. The only way to even notice it is to put a lot of side force on it.
 
If you reload...look at some very low pressure loads using IMR 7625 powder....this powder is about right for black powder dupl. loads in old guns...for instance: Fed. gold medal hull, f209a primer, waa12sl wad, 1oz. shot, 22.5grs.7625......4600psi press.or using Rem. prem. hull and 19gr. 7625 4200psi.!!
 
I'm assuming the crack is vertical, starting at the tang, and extending toward the butt. Remove the stock. Working from the inletting, drill in and open out across the crack with a Dremel and a small burr. Don't go near the surface. Pack this cavity with epoxy or bedding compound. Sometimes a little roughened steel pin can be pushed into the cavity to bridge the crack mechanically. If the crack can be exposed with a bit of side pressure, it might be possible to get some epoxy down into the crack. Or, with the epoxy in the cavity, by springing the crack open and closed, the epoxy may be drawn into the crack. Don't use enough force to make the crack larger, just enough to draw the epoxy into it. Make sure none is left on the surface. Wrap the stock with elastic while the repair cures. If oil has got down into the crack, the epoxy may not adhere well to the wood. This is why working inside, dentist style, can stabilize the crack. Use a slow cure quality epoxy, not 5 minute type. Its stronger. Bedding compound, like Acraglas, Acraglas Gel, or Microbed can also be used.
 
Thanks tiriag, The gun has some value to it so I'm not sure about doing the stock myself. Believe I will take it to my local smith and see what he says.
 
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A gun in good condition made in 1955 ,was made for the present day 2 3/4 in. loads that are available at Canadian tire or any other gun store. An old gun is one made well before WW 2 maybe.
 
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