Light Mounting Thread

Last time I NEEDED to mount a light on a C-8, it didn't have a rail, nor did my light have a pressure pad. It had a rear push button.

I ended up placing it on the left side of the handguards, just above the centerline, and while one wrap of gun-tape didn't hold it very steady, adding a half dozen or so wraps REAL TIGHT after the first one kept it in place nice and solid.

Came off real easy after the EX too, almost no clean-up required.

If you NEED a light, they're easy to add.

NS
 
you should pay attention to the "light pattern" projected by maglite. It will explain why surefire is expensive.

It projects a beam of light in front of the gun. The geometry of the reflector doesn't affect the price of a light by $250. Just more toys for the brand-whoring man-children.
 
The question in my mind would be, "does the different pattern have a negative impact on what I am doing with the light?"

If the answer is yes, then more money might be worthwhile.

If the answer is no, then it might not.

I don't know what GT does with his rifles, but if he requires maximum even luminosity to assess targets correctly in an instant while on SWAT raids, then I would say the money is well spent.

Conversely if the goal is to stand in front of a mirror with the gun, then the "it throws a better pattern" is moot and the correct argument would be "because I want one".

In my case, the throw was less critical. What I wanted was a shock resistant light with a tailcap switch, and the P6D was available at the time for $60 (last one in stock plus a birthday discount from guys at a local shop).

It's a very good light. In my opinion the features I got were well worth the extra $40 I paid over a comparable maglight. They would not have been worth an extra $400, however, because I don't use my rifles for work. I use them for fun and I don't do a lot of demanding close range shooting in low light. In fact I do none at all.

Has mag-light gone to tail cap switches? That would be a deal-breaker for me...no tail-cap, no mounting on a gun.
 
Here's a couple pics of two of my 12:00 setups....

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This is a Surefire X300 mounted just in front of a DD fixed front BUIS on a 10.5" LMT CQB MRP.

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This is a Surefire M600C Scout Light mounted at 12:00 on a DD RIS II FSB on one of my Colt LE6920's.

I actually prefer the Scout mounted at 12:00 over the X300. At first I tried it with a tape switch, but I REALLY hate tape switches, so then I tried it with the supplied tailcap, and found it to be the best of the bunch. The M600C has the following advantages over the X300 when run at the 12:00 positon:

1. NO light ND's. The switch is very well protected - the only time this light
is coming on is when YOU want it to come on. The switch is still very easy
to access, and like the X300, is totally ambidextrious.
2. better light throw. Even though it's only rated 10 lumens higher, the Scout
has a tighter beam and projects significantly further by my eye.
3. don't have to remove the whole light from the rifle to replace batteries,
just screw the front end off.
4. doesn't get in the way of the ATILLA IR laser/illuminator (or any other brand IR laser/illuminator I suspect - perhaps others could chime in here) like the X300 does.
5. steel mount, not plastic.

IMO it's the way to go for a non-SBR application.
 
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Legacy weapons light. Very durable but at the cost of increased weight and bulk.

What he said.

I still use mine because it works and I don't have to walk too far with my rifle.

But for the next deployment something else will be procured. Leaning towards a X300 so far.

Edit to add: The good thing about these is that they can be found cheap-ish. The wife doesn't think that $200 for a flashlight is cheap, so YMMV.
 
guys, TLR-1 + remote switch good for a rifle???? what are the main difference between the TLR-1 and the X300?? I know the x300 has plastic mount which some ppl are not too sure about but besides that?
 
Just got my Viking Light mount today and it's pretty good.

The mount is very sturdy and built better than it looks. It's definitely better than a scope ring or cheap air soft stuff.

It's very versatile...

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Surefire G2 with Thrunite LED mod. 460 lumens
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Fenix Tk21
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Felix Pd32
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V-tac mount
Fenix TK-11

Ran a TK-10 on a Valtro PM-5 for over a year, hundreds of trap loads and slug's and never had an issue except for carbon on the lense.

I have a pressure switch but find the cord always gets snagged when moving.

Best to keep my lights mounted low, easy to find the tail cap with my thumb and less chance of of it getting beaten up when the rifle is slung.

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I just picked up a SF M952V, it arrived today. At first I was leery of spending that much on a light, but now I can see why they are priced the way they are. The beam is incredible and overall with the QD mount it's insanely lightweight. The construction is very solid and I'm impressed with the power this little unit packs. This light will definitely last a lifetime and for that reason the cost can be justified.

My intended uses are to 1. mount to my backpacking shorty shotgun (Benelli Supernova M4) for camping, hiking and the occasional evening shat in the dark... The other reason is for a new M4 project, I'm trying to produce a good quality clone.
 
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I'll most likely be running the viking mount with the TK21. It's an amazing light, 468 lumens with just one 18650 battery.
 
I just picked up a SF M952V, it arrived today. At first I was leery of spending that much on a light, but now I can see why they are priced the way they are. The beam is incredible and overall with the QD mount it's insanely lightweight. The construction is very solid and I'm impressed with the power this little unit packs. This light will definitely last a lifetime and for that reason the cost can be justified.

My intended uses are to 1. mount to my backpacking shorty shotgun (Benelli Supernova M4) for camping, hiking and the occasional evening shat in the dark... The other reason is for my new M4 build, I'm trying to produce a good quality clone.

WOW, just looked the price of that light...
 
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