Finally got my 629 classic out to the range, with the Wolff reduced power mainspring and rebound spring I am getting light strikes on Winchester white box (it's what I have on hand) though I notice that the primers are set reeeeeally deep on this stuff. I need to verify on my loads with CCI LPP that's it's not the seating depth on the factory stuff, but I understand the light strike issue is not entirely uncommon. Has anyone any experience shimming the factory strain screw or replacing it with a good set screw for infinite adjustment? I'd like to not have to resort to the caveman method of bending the mainspring if possible.
Light strikes - strain screw vs bending Wolff RP mainspring - Smith 629
- Thread starter The_Shmoo
- Start date
The "caveman" method, as you call call it, works very well and is very low cost. But I suppose adding shims or buying a longer strain then converting for your "...good set screw for infinite adjustment" is another way to go.
A shim can be used for testing but should be temporary. A shim that cannot come out is a more permanent solution. The strain screw should be fully installed and tight. I would re-arc the current mainspring, or replace the strain screw with a longer one then shorten as needed. A new, heavier mainspring would be the next option.
If testing shows that you only need a small amount of more oomph then removing metal from the bottom of the strain screw's head may give you that small amount.
Light triggers = light strikes. I decided on the caveman solution for my 66 and bent the mainspring aggressively, on purpose, but that revolver is a Federal primer only gun. I figured if I messed up that a new mainspring wouldn't cost much to replace. You can caveman your mainspring a lot less and through trial and error get to a place that works for you.
In the Mexican Clubs, we wanted a full-power hammer spring. Aguila primers are very hard -- to begin with -- and the guns are not just "sport" guns but are carried for defense and they need to go "bang". To get a bit of extra poop out of the hammer strike, a common trick was to clean the guts out of a spent primer (small pistol or rifle) and hang it on the end of the strain screw and tighten her down. It adds a couple thou to the pressure on the hammer spring.
Agreed, but some people want to have their cake and eat it too.
Personally, if it's only for casual range use, I'd play around with brass and primer options to see if that can solve the problem. Mucking around with internals can create compound issues, often not worth it. But to each their own.
BattleRife
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- of No Fixed Address
My understanding is that S&W's position is that the strain screw should not be used to adjust trigger pull, it should be fully in and tight at all times. I imagine that if it is not it can back out over time, eventually compromising reliability.
As Calmex describes, I have had an empty primer cup positioned on the tip of the screw of my M15 for years now. It definitely helped with lightstrikes, though I still get the odd one when when using CCI primers.
As Calmex describes, I have had an empty primer cup positioned on the tip of the screw of my M15 for years now. It definitely helped with lightstrikes, though I still get the odd one when when using CCI primers.
Back in the day -- like 20 years ago -- there were piles of S&W hammer noses for sale at Numrich and Brownells. I bought a dozen of them. A common problem, and I had this problem with my prized Model 14-3 in Mexico, is hammer nose protrusion (or better, lack of it). I kept getting light strikes no matter what I did, but I could not help noticing that the hammer nose did not protrude through the frame as much as my other (older) S&W revolvers. I tried changing hammers, but that did not seem to work. Sifting through a pile of assorted hammer noses, I found one that seemed a bit longer than the rest and installed it. That seemed to cure the problem.
Perhaps a little tougher to do today with the older parts drying up, but it's a suggestion.
Certainly on a Combat Revolver, you want the heaviest mainspring you can lay your hands on. Forget the "light and tuned" competition mainsprings, they'll get you killed. A nice action can be obtained by playing with the hammer-rebound springs (make SURE the trigger comes back smartly enough, the lightest spring is not usually the best) and a light polish and properly lubing of the key action parts. A 7-pound competition double-action pull is a sure sign of someone who never walks through the rough parts of the World and is actually sort of laughable -- a true sign that "play and sport" have become more important than the true martial art. Oh, well. I tend to be a bit of a hard-liner on such details I realize.
A thin trigger helps a lot in double-action shooting. I've done several posts on that, and Jerry Miculek has videos on the technique. If you are using a heavy mainspring, and your firing pin protrusion is sufficient, another cause of light strikes could be cylinder end-shake. Those are the first things I'd check anyway. I love revolvers, but the damned things have to work or they're no better than a less than 100% reliable automatic. And the auto generally has more shots. Still, for a pocket concealed-carry piece, nothing beats a S&W or Colt snubby .38 Special loaded to the gilders. As long as they always go *BANG*, of course.
A thin trigger helps a lot in double-action shooting. I've done several posts on that, and Jerry Miculek has videos on the technique. If you are using a heavy mainspring, and your firing pin protrusion is sufficient, another cause of light strikes could be cylinder end-shake. Those are the first things I'd check anyway. I love revolvers, but the damned things have to work or they're no better than a less than 100% reliable automatic. And the auto generally has more shots. Still, for a pocket concealed-carry piece, nothing beats a S&W or Colt snubby .38 Special loaded to the gilders. As long as they always go *BANG*, of course.
