Lightweight build questions....

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BigBraz15

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So I'm working on building a nice light model 7 remington. I have a lot of it figured out in my mind what I am going to do, but also a few questions for you that have been down this path.

As far as after market triggers. I read that a rifle basix can drop off almost 2 ounces. Not sure if this is true or not. What aftermarket setup will provide the reliability needed for a mountain hunt? Will it drop any weight off of the factory model?

I didn't realize there was a heavier barrel contour in the SAUM chamberings. Not a big deal, but just wondering: if I do decide to get the barrel fluted is there any actual concern about it not shooting accurately afterwards? I know there are lots of theories out there, but I would like actual facts if possible.

I have stock and firing pin assembly figured out. If funds are sufficient after that the bolt will be fluted, bolt knob and handle skeletonized and the action slabbed. If I don't hit the target weight at that point I will look at barrel fluting, etc. Any other input is welcome.

Thanks!
 
Contouring the barrel rather than fluting will reduce the weight more, also if you haven't looked at them yet check out Wildcat stocks , they are about as light as they get yet plenty stiff for accurate shooting.
 
As far as triggers go any competent smith can work a factory Remington trigger to a reliable, crisp, safe 2.5 pounds... for a fraction of the price of an aftermarket trigger. They have been doing that for 50 years...

You don't want a 2 ounce trigger in a hunting rifle... light triggers are prone to more problems...
 
guntech said:
As far as triggers go any competent smith can work a factory Remington trigger to a reliable, crisp, safe 2.5 pounds... for a fraction of the price of an aftermarket trigger. They have been doing that for 50 years...

You don't want a 2 ounce trigger in a hunting rifle... light triggers are prone to more problems...
Click to expand...

I was about to post the same comments but after re-reading the OP, I think he's referring to the physical weight of the trigger parts. He's looking for a trigger that will save weight on the build.
 
If re-contouring a factory barrel would you expect accuracy to still be acceptable?

My target weight is 7 pounds scoped and ready to go. Not sure if it will happen. I will certainly be going with a Wildcat stock. Already have a firing pin assembly on the way thanks to Gary at Bighorn. I will dig into the trigger tuning. I have never been sold on a Remington trigger, but perhaps it is a better way to go.

Thanks for the input!
 
You will hit 7lbs no prob with an appropriate scope like a leupold vx2 3-9x40 etc
Wildcat stock
Talley lightweight mounts
Lightweight pin/shroud
the magnum sporter contour will add some weight but the model 7 action saves some
 
7lbs scoped is child's play for a Model Seven.

I have a long action 700 that goes 7lbs 2 oz with a 3.5-10 Leupold in Talley LW's and McMillan Edge. This has a #2 Shilen at 23".

A comparable Seven with a #1 22" barrel will be about a pound lighter. Go to a lighter scope and you'll be right around 6 lbs, probably under.
 
I built a 7-08 for wife on a 700 action and loaded up its well under 7 lbs so with the lighter model 7 you should hit that no problem as long as don't put a "star gazer" scope on it.
 
BigBraz15 said:
So I'm working on building a nice light model 7 remington. I have a lot of it figured out in my mind what I am going to do, but also a few questions for you that have been down this path.

As far as after market triggers. I read that a rifle basix can drop off almost 2 ounces. Not sure if this is true or not. What aftermarket setup will provide the reliability needed for a mountain hunt? Will it drop any weight off of the factory model?

I didn't realize there was a heavier barrel contour in the SAUM chamberings. Not a big deal, but just wondering: if I do decide to get the barrel fluted is there any actual concern about it not shooting accurately afterwards? I know there are lots of theories out there, but I would like actual facts if possible.

I have stock and firing pin assembly figured out. If funds are sufficient after that the bolt will be fluted, bolt knob and handle skeletonized and the action slabbed. If I don't hit the target weight at that point I will look at barrel fluting, etc. Any other input is welcome.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

There are plenty of theories and conflicting observations because factory barrels are NOT consistent. So a barrel could be just great after fluting or a disaster... pays your money, takes your chances.

If you really want a lighter barrel, I can offer you Carbonsix CF wrapped barrels or lighter contour match barrels. The point here is that the barrel is physically lighter AND set up for accurate fire. Fluting is not cheap and if the factory barrel doesn't shoot, odds of improving are zero so you have doubled down on a bad pipe.

Triggers are not where I would save weight... use the unit that does the job... ie survive the rigors of hunting. Save weight in the stock, base, trigger guard and rings... then barrel and very very last, the action.

If your firing pin assembly involves a light pin and spring, that might not be the right direction when conditions get nasty.

PM or email if you need more help.

Thanks

Jerry
 
Mystic Precision said:
There are plenty of theories and conflicting observations because factory barrels are NOT consistent. So a barrel could be just great after fluting or a disaster... pays your money, takes your chances.

If you really want a lighter barrel, I can offer you Carbonsix CF wrapped barrels or lighter contour match barrels. The point here is that the barrel is physically lighter AND set up for accurate fire. Fluting is not cheap and if the factory barrel doesn't shoot, odds of improving are zero so you have doubled down on a bad pipe.

Triggers are not where I would save weight... use the unit that does the job... ie survive the rigors of hunting. Save weight in the stock, base, trigger guard and rings... then barrel and very very last, the action.

If your firing pin assembly involves a light pin and spring, that might not be the right direction when conditions get nasty.

PM or email if you need more help.

Thanks

Jerry
Click to expand...

Thanks Jerry. Your comment about the triggers is exactly why I am inquiring. I do have a rifle basix on another rifle, but this one will be for more harsh service. I will see where I end up with after I get the stock I will see where I end up. What kind of weight savings can you get in trigger guards, etc. I have been searching for titanium or other lightweight options for trigger guard/bottom metal and cant find anything.
 
BigBraz15 said:
Thanks Jerry. Your comment about the triggers is exactly why I am inquiring. I do have a rifle basix on another rifle, but this one will be for more harsh service. I will see where I end up with after I get the stock I will see where I end up. What kind of weight savings can you get in trigger guards, etc. I have been searching for titanium or other lightweight options for trigger guard/bottom metal and cant find anything.
Click to expand...

You won't find any bottom metal that is lighter than the factory aluminum. Ti is about the same weight, maybe even a touch more.

I did up a short 700 in 300 WSM and came in at 5 lbs 15 oz with a Leupold 3-9X36 VX II compact.........started with a 700 Ti rifle. I opted for the Brown Precision Kevlar stock which weighs less than a lb all up finished and is tougher than a pig's nose.

I am doing a Mod 7 in 300 SAUM for my #1 son right now, started with a stainless/synthetic and am about to start lightening it up......target under 6 lbs with scope. Doubt I'll make it without the benefits of the Ti action to start with but should be able to get it to 6 1/4 pretty easy.

When I built my own I decided what I wanted and spared no expense to get as light as possible. I did the work myself.....there wasn't much really, but I addressed everything that could be made lighter. The original Mod 700 Ti already had a fluted and hollowed out bolt and fluted barrel, so no extra cost there. I went with a PT&G lightweight speed lock firing pin assy and a PT&G aluminum bolt shroud.......significant weight saving in the bolt shroud!! After weighing many types and makes of rings I ended up going with ugly but functional and light Weavers.........They are as light as any and one can buy exactly the right height combo of ring and base. I went with the Leupold 3-9X36 VX II compact scope, these have some down side aspects but work on this rifle just fine, for what I built it to do. One is not usually short of light when mountain hunting and this scope has proven it is all one needs for sheep hunting. It is not the absolute best and clearest optics but I was willing to sacrifice a little optic quality for the light weight.



Total build cost was just over $4K..........was it worth it ?????????? Maybe...........
 
I'm keeping track of all weights on everything and costs. Once I get things rolling I will make a post with what was done and the cost.

I'm curious Douglas what all work you did on yours, and what you are planning to do on your son's build.

I am projecting to be at $2500 when I am done, but will see where I end up when it's done.

I appreciate the input.
 
BigBraz15 said:
Thanks Jerry. Your comment about the triggers is exactly why I am inquiring. I do have a rifle basix on another rifle, but this one will be for more harsh service. I will see where I end up with after I get the stock I will see where I end up. What kind of weight savings can you get in trigger guards, etc. I have been searching for titanium or other lightweight options for trigger guard/bottom metal and cant find anything.
Click to expand...

I actually use the plastic trigger guard you get from the plastic fantastic stocks... yep, super light and it is not going to see harsh use on my target rifles. I likely saved 2 oz vs a metal one.

Jerry
 
Rotorwash said:
Wow that's a bit more than I expected. A guy can cut alot more weight in other gear for the same money.
Click to expand...

Cost on the Carbonsix is less then other CF wrapped barrels (prices vary based on the spec so send a PM or email for a quote). Cheap.. NOT IN YOUR LIFE... but if you are trying to save all the weight you can AND have a barrel that will show some heat stability, CF wrapped barrels may be what you want/need.

The whole point of this tech is to allow the same stability as a larger contoured and heavier steel barrel but at a lower weight.

If 6 to 10ozs will make or break your overall weight and money is no object and you want to be able to hammer a few rds downrange without fuss, then the CF is a great solution.

I am not a fan of fluting super thin barrels... go too deep and things can get out of hand fast. And fluting is not cheap.

Been involved in a several super light builds... costs go ballistic in a hurry for every 6oz you take off the platform so really know if you need a sub 6lbs rifle.

Ti actions, CF wrapped barrels, Ti support parts, CF stocks, light alum rings/ bases... with our crappy dollar, you are looking at a lot of money for the parts alone.

Jerry
 
BigBraz15 said:
I'm keeping track of all weights on everything and costs. Once I get things rolling I will make a post with what was done and the cost.

I'm curious Douglas what all work you did on yours, and what you are planning to do on your son's build.

I am projecting to be at $2500 when I am done, but will see where I end up when it's done.

I appreciate the input.
Click to expand...

BB15........I really didn't do anything to it, I changed the firing pin and bolt shroud..........5 minutes........and bedded it. As it is a Kevlar/carbon fiber stock, I ordered it completely finished........I tried to finish one of them years ago and learned my lesson.....never again !!! All told I doubt I have an hours labor in it..........

By the by BB15.........there is a Ti Model 700 in 300 WSM in the EE right now..........not cheap but they are light and already have fluted barrel and bolt..........under 6 lbs as is and ready to scope........
 
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