Limbsaver on synthetic stock?

[huntingfish]

Hi everyone,
Just bought a new Zastava rifle with a synthetic stock. I want to replace the hockey puck pad it has with a limbsaver. The grind-to-fit 10542 (classic 1" LOP) seems to have the best alignment for the screws.

This is something I've done once on a 30-06 with a wooden stock and it went fairly well. Since the stock is hollow though, I'm wondering if I can just install a grind-to-fit limbsaver on it? The factory pad seems to go inside the stock a bit (by about 1/4" inch). I'm thinking if the recoil of the 300 win mag isn't transfered correctly to the pad, it could crack the plastic of the stock where the pad and stock meet up.

Is this why they have certain pads that are specific for synthetic stocks? Unfortunately, none of these seem to fit perfectly as a replacement. Anyways, by looking at the printed templates (#10008, 10100, 10101 and 10805).

Cheers!

David

 

[huntingfish]

This has been bothering me a bit...

I took pictures of the pad. You can clearly see the part that is supposed to insert into the stock (the part with the smaller diameter obviously).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fghsoGcsLvBh5HEv6

I'm thinking it might be better to take a metal hand saw and cut that insert part and then glue it onto a limbsaver pad so that it can transfert the recoil properly without the risk of the stock cracking. Seems like I'm overthinking it though.

David

 

[double gun]

I once put a grind to fit decelerator on a hollow synthetic stock that had the same issue. There were only two very small tabs to receive screws so I just made an aluminum skeletonized insert that fit inside and flush with the butt. It was secured in place with two screws in the existing tabs/holes and I drilled and tapped the two new holes where I wanted them. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do to get it done.

 

[huntingfish]

Oh wow. That's a nice solution to the problem. I like it. It confirms a bit what I was thinking as far as force transfert. Is this something you'd be willing to do for someone else (aka me hehe). I have zero machining skills and no tools to be able to pull this off.

I guess it would be great to be able to use a prefit pad and not grind up a pad if I can avoid it.

David

 

[double gun]

I’m in alberta and not a gunsmith, but I’m sure any Gunsmith near you would take on a job like this.

 

[huntingfish]

I’m in alberta and not a gunsmith, but I’m sure any Gunsmith near you would take on a job like this.

Oh right, didn't see you were in Alberta!

What caliber is yours in? No issues with recoil I would imagine?

David

 

[riversrest]

Cut of the interior part of the existing pad as you suggested and use epoxy to glue it flush into the stock. Then drill a couple holes with the right spacing for the new pad and install it.

 

[huntingfish]

Cut of the interior part of the existing pad as you suggested and use epoxy to glue it flush into the stock. Then drill a couple holes with the right spacing for the new pad and install it.

With what would you cut it? I was thinking of going slow with a metal saw and lubing it up with wd-40 or using a woodworking bandsaw and use a fence to ensure the cut is parallel to the end.

Any special kind of epoxy to glue rubber to rubber?

Appreciate the help!

David

 

[riversrest]

I'd use a metal saw unless you have a really fine wood working band saw. If your cut isn't a 100% straight just fill with epoxy to even it out flush to the stock end.

I don't know a brand from the top my head but hit the shelf at your HH or CT you will find something that works..

 

[Juster]

If you were stuck, instead of Aluminium, you could get away with an old chopping board (wood or plastic), which would be easy to cut although not a strong.
I actually have a slip-on rubber pad over a padless synthetic stock, which works well enough for now.

 

[huntingfish]

This is the route I want to take...I made a prototype with wood and it seems easy enough. Just have to be careful with the fitting near completion...

I have crucial question for you that has elluded my google-foo skills.

Where do you go about finding a piece of aluminum (1.5"x5"x3/8") for such a project?! I know nothing of metalworking and wouldn't even know where to begin hehe. Plus, I little that I know are the english words...I'm in Quebec City (all local stores are French).

Cheers!
David

 

[smokeeter]

This is the route I want to take...I made a prototype with wood and it seems easy enough. Just have to be careful with the fitting near completion...

I have crucial question for you that has elluded my google-foo skills.

Where do you go about finding a piece of aluminum (1.5"x5"x3/8") for such a project?! I know nothing of metalworking and wouldn't even know where to begin hehe. Plus, I little that I know are the english words...I'm in Quebec City (all local stores are French).

Cheers!
David

Here in Ontario we have a supplier The Metal Supermarket, they're a francise possibly in Quebec also? They would be able to supply you with that piece. ( They may even ship from Ontario)

 

[kamlooky]

CGN'r ………….. LEP...……...aka LordEvilPepper might be able to find you a piece awf'lewminum.
He did a great job on the creation of my KLR skid pan.

 

[trevj]

You do any woodworking, David?

Because about anything that will cut wood, will cut aluminum.

Belt sander, band saw, files, drills, etc. Power tools are faster, a set of files and some elbow grease, still works like it always has.

Places to check out for Aluminum plate.
https://www.google.com/search?clien...hUKEwiu7O3OgbTqAhVRFjQIHf9LCIIQ4dUDCAs&uact=5

 

[huntingfish]

You do any woodworking, David?

Because about anything that will cut wood, will cut aluminum.

Belt sander, band saw, files, drills, etc. Power tools are faster, a set of files and some elbow grease, still works like it always has.

Places to check out for Aluminum plate.
https://www.google.com/search?clien...hUKEwiu7O3OgbTqAhVRFjQIHf9LCIIQ4dUDCAs&uact=5

I do, albeit with limited tools. My workbencgg / laundry room isn't the best setup as you can probably gather. I had a lathe (wood) and such, but got rid of it because it made a mess in the laundry room haha.

Maybe one day! I was thinking of getting a stationnary belt sander for this. I would think it would come in handy for a couple of jobs I need to do (mainly, it will be great for the limbsaver grind-to-fit too). I also have a cheapo press drill, so I'll be able to do the holes in the metal butt stock too.

David

 

[huntingfish]

I purchased a used belt sander for real cheap (40$). Should come in handy for this project.

I had an idea...I'd like to run by #gunsmithing forum to see what people thought.

The body of the butt of the stock extends an extra 0.30" further than the inner plastic rods that transfert the recoil (and where you screw in the factory recoil pad). This means that if I want to install a limbsaver, I need to create a spacer that will bridge that gap. Not impossible to do, but also a pain.

Do you think I could simply sand/grind the excess 0.30" so that the back of the buttstock is essentially flat against the plastic rods? It would shorten my stock a tiny bit, but I think it would be easier to do since I'm having a hard time locating Acetal / Delrin in Québec City (to make the spacer). The one thing that bugs me about going this way is that it's a destructive operation: If it doesn't work...the factory recoil pad no longer will work.

Here's a picture of what the inner stock looks like:

David

 

[Nashville]

Since you have a belt sander...
As someone said previously cut or just grind down the factory pad until only the bottom part of the spacer, that centres inside the stock and sits on the screw tabs, remains. This can then be epoxied to the spacer on the new grind to fit. Grinding it down would be easy and ensures it stays flat.
I would also recommend a Pachmayr pad, though a bit firmer they seem to last much longer in my experience.

 

[Workin Man]

I think you are over thinking this. I have installed two grind to fit limbsavers on synthetic stocked rifles and did not put anything inside the stock and have had zero issues. They are both H&R single shot rifles, one in 35 Whelen and one in 45/70. If you are really concerned, a couple washers over the screws will make the "posts" make contact with the pad. Just a heads up, put the pad in the freezer overnight before grinding. It will come out looking cleaner.

Jim

 

[huntingfish]

I think you are over thinking this. I have installed two grind to fit limbsavers on synthetic stocked rifles and did not put anything inside the stock and have had zero issues. They are both H&R single shot rifles, one in 35 Whelen and one in 45/70. If you are really concerned, a couple washers over the screws will make the "posts" make contact with the pad. Just a heads up, put the pad in the freezer overnight before grinding. It will come out looking cleaner.

Jim

I'm going with the delrin route...but dang a couple of washers would of been soo much easier lol.

Here's what it looks like (I made two just in case I encountered problems, but everything is nice and dandy so I'm selling the extra one in the EE):

Thanks for the freezer trick!

David

 

[huntingfish]

The fit wasn't perfect. There was a small gap towards the bottom of the pad. I didn't want to risk firing a 300WM round without a perfect mating of the surfaces. Otherwise, I would of risked a break in the plastic with all the forces involved.

Checked with a machinist square, the limbsaver's bottom is completely flat (as expected).

I ended up putting a drop of CA glue and gluing the spacer in place.
Once it was cured, I sanded the stock and pad together to create a single flat surface (both stock and spacer form a single flat surface now).

The pad fits perfectly onto the stock now (grinded a bit too much at the top, but I can live with that, might grind the stock to match...we'll see):

I might be able to go shoot the rifle later this week if my schedule can clear itself up.

David