Linseed Oil Alternatives?
- Thread starter lupothebutcher
- Start date
lupothebutcher
CGN frequent flyer
Thanks for the replies. Lots of good ideas and sugestions; for those who asked, I am in Nunavut in one of the villages where all goods and supplies (and mail) either come on aircraft (who don't like flamable liquids) or on the yearly sea lift which won't be until the end of september next year.
You tried asking around town to see if anyone has any linseed or similar that they can let you have some of, or sell you some? Or any of the WatCo Oil finishes, or similar.
I like the comment about flax seed oil. Vitamins by mail order! It IS linseed oil, takes about for frikken ever to completely dry though. Dunno what can be added to it as a 'drier', either, though some net searchin' could show that. Or of you can create you own 'boiled' out of it. But I do think Vitamin capsules would like as not make it onto the plane.
Best of luck in the dark, eh! Wassit they were saying? Winter is coming! Or it's already there, eh?
Cheers
Trev
I like the comment about flax seed oil. Vitamins by mail order! It IS linseed oil, takes about for frikken ever to completely dry though. Dunno what can be added to it as a 'drier', either, though some net searchin' could show that. Or of you can create you own 'boiled' out of it. But I do think Vitamin capsules would like as not make it onto the plane.
Best of luck in the dark, eh! Wassit they were saying? Winter is coming! Or it's already there, eh?
Cheers
Trev
Would the "Armor All" trick work with it like it does with Tung oil and Tru Oil? I've used it with Tung oil and it works great. Speeds up the drying time to about 15 minutes between coats instead of 12-24 hours.
You still haven't pinned down a location that means anything. I've got lots of people travelling around Nunavut, but without naming a community, it's hard to get anything to you.
I would stay away from the dubbin and raw vegetable oils. Dubbin is basically a waxy grease and it never hardens, just rubs off and it severely complicates any future stock treatment. The raw vegetable oils don't really cure either and will have a tacky feel for weeks and months and any time they get exposed to sunlight or heat.
BLO or one of the furniture finishing oils like Danish wood oil that you can get at hardware or paint stores will be a much better choice. You will be disappointed with the other stuff you suggetsed.
BLO or one of the furniture finishing oils like Danish wood oil that you can get at hardware or paint stores will be a much better choice. You will be disappointed with the other stuff you suggetsed.
If you're really stuck then just some regular paste wax applied fairly frequently will do just fine for now. In the meantime order up the BLO and some mineral spirits to be shipped in on the boat run. When it arrives you can wash off the wax with some mineral spirits, let it dry and you're ready to apply the BLO.
To d4dave1. These days "boiled linseed" isn't actually boiled. Instead it's simply raw linseed oil with driers added. Back in olden tymes
when they did actually boil the oil it was a risky bit of business. It has to be done JUST right and the fumes given off are massively flammable. From my reading about finishing products for my wood working hobby the old stories were full of fires and explosions among those that prepared wood finishing products for use by the cabinet makers and other users of the day. So no, it's just not a good idea to try.
To d4dave1. These days "boiled linseed" isn't actually boiled. Instead it's simply raw linseed oil with driers added. Back in olden tymes
when they did actually boil the oil it was a risky bit of business. It has to be done JUST right and the fumes given off are massively flammable. From my reading about finishing products for my wood working hobby the old stories were full of fires and explosions among those that prepared wood finishing products for use by the cabinet makers and other users of the day. So no, it's just not a good idea to try.Come to think of it if you're stuck even slather it down and wipe off well with the dubbin. It'll certainly water proof things for a while and again a mild solvent like mineral spirits of low odor paint thinner will remove the stuff later on. It'll just take longer and more to deep clean the grain to get it ready for a linseed oil treatment. No biggie.
And of course we're talking a basic working grade rifle here. Not some fancy H&H or other antique. So we all need to consider that as well.
One big deal though. I'm often shocked at how few rifles are finished under the action and butt plate. Be sure you break things down and coat ALL of the surfaces. The end grain inside the action mortise under the butt plate is particularly important as any end grain is an easy route in for unwanted water or machine oils that will greatly affect the wood. So ensure you coat those EXTRA WELL. In the case of using paste wax heat it up so the wax goes watery to encourage a good penetration and adequate protection.
And of course we're talking a basic working grade rifle here. Not some fancy H&H or other antique. So we all need to consider that as well.
One big deal though. I'm often shocked at how few rifles are finished under the action and butt plate. Be sure you break things down and coat ALL of the surfaces. The end grain inside the action mortise under the butt plate is particularly important as any end grain is an easy route in for unwanted water or machine oils that will greatly affect the wood. So ensure you coat those EXTRA WELL. In the case of using paste wax heat it up so the wax goes watery to encourage a good penetration and adequate protection.
The blond will be birch, beech or maple. Dubbin is grease and will solidify in the cold.
BLO doesn't really waterproof anything. More of a preservative. Shoe polish has waxes in it that are there to protect and waterproof the leather. Doesn't do much for wood, but it's better than nothing.
Use Pure Tung Oil, if you can. No cutting is required. Has to be applied correctly though. Thin coats over several days with 24 hours drying time between coats.
BLO doesn't really waterproof anything. More of a preservative. Shoe polish has waxes in it that are there to protect and waterproof the leather. Doesn't do much for wood, but it's better than nothing.
Use Pure Tung Oil, if you can. No cutting is required. Has to be applied correctly though. Thin coats over several days with 24 hours drying time between coats.
if you have to make a wood preservative .... there is the old way of making " pine tar " .
basically the Roots of the pine tree are heated in a metal barrel (to limit air ... otherwise it will burn off ) and a black oil is given off and collected... this will preserve wood and has a nice smell ... i mix it with abit of linseed oil and its what i use
this video sort of shows the process but does a poor job explaining it... he uses it for his ski's ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d--rbNuzr_A
this was supposedly used on the Viking Stave churches ... which are made of wood and hundreds of years old..
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stave_church
good luck on your efforts...
sometimes we can't buy stuff, we just have to make it for ourselves
basically the Roots of the pine tree are heated in a metal barrel (to limit air ... otherwise it will burn off ) and a black oil is given off and collected... this will preserve wood and has a nice smell ... i mix it with abit of linseed oil and its what i use
this video sort of shows the process but does a poor job explaining it... he uses it for his ski's ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d--rbNuzr_A
this was supposedly used on the Viking Stave churches ... which are made of wood and hundreds of years old..
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stave_church
good luck on your efforts...
sometimes we can't buy stuff, we just have to make it for ourselves
Sunray, I've finished a gun cart for cowboy action with BLO and it's been doing just fine as a water proofer. I'm not sure why you have this misunderstanding over that oil.
What it isn't is all that durable. BLO will wear away sooner and thus require a more frequent re-coating to maintain good water repellency. But that's about the only downside.
What it isn't is all that durable. BLO will wear away sooner and thus require a more frequent re-coating to maintain good water repellency. But that's about the only downside.
RustyCanuck
Member
- Location
- Dundas Ontario
This may or may not apply to the OP with regards to shipping, but all I've ever used for anything like this(wood showshoes, axe handles, knives, gun stocks etc,) is simply varnish cut with either turpentine or varsol. I have had a couple of badger hair brushes hanging in turpentine for well over a decade now, I used these when I lived up north and worked on wood boats and canoes. I simply remove the brush from the turps and let it drip into a container and add splashes of turps to thin it down to the required consistency. Because the brushes have been hanging in this mixture for so long the mixture is a bit gloppy, but pouring varnish (any cheap stuff from HD or Rona will do) and mixing with either turps or varsol will get the same effect. I try for a pure maple syrup consistency, then brush or wipe on, let sit for a few minutes then wipe off. I do this half a dozen or so times then apply a coat I let sit for an hour or so. Wipe it down and it's good to go.It's a nice satin/matte finish that holds up well. Like anything that gets used outside it's best to dry if off and keep it clean, if you feel the urge to apply another coat it can be done anytime with a minimum of fuss and mess. BLO is good stuff and I've used it a lot but it takes forever to dry, thinned varnish has worked for me for 20+ years now.
I really like the Dem-Bart oil for a traditional finish, and their wax is absolutely amazing on wood (and leather)! Ultimate water repellant!
http://www.dembartco.com/finishes.htm
Reliable Guns in Vancouver stocks it, I'm sure they could mail you up a small bottle of each.
http://www.dembartco.com/finishes.htm
Reliable Guns in Vancouver stocks it, I'm sure they could mail you up a small bottle of each.
I don't know how it would hold up on a rifle stock, but we just finished a custom home with a walnut countertop. The woodworking shop that fabricated the top finished it with many coats of regular mineral oil (due to food preparation on it), and it turned out beautifully. The finish could be easily touched up at will. I don't believe that the mineral oil finish will ever 'cure', however.
