Little help with a MLE 'long lee'

Ardent

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Hey folks, I've come to acquire a 'long lee' MLE, and need to find the forward metal for it (barrel clamp and fore end tip), talk about a near impossible task I know. :p Any leads would be incredibly helpful. Also, the front wood's been sporterized, so I'll need to make a new fore end, so anyone have a long lee they can share some good photos/info on to help me in my restoration? I doubt I'll find original wood... :p What wood was used for the long lee's stocks by the way? I'd like to find a nice match, though I'm pretty sure I'll need to stain to match given the aging.
 
Ardent said:
Hey folks, I've come to acquire a 'long lee' MLE, and need to find the forward metal for it (barrel clamp and fore end tip), talk about a near impossible task I know. :p Any leads would be incredibly helpful. Also, the front wood's been sporterized, so I'll need to make a new fore end, so anyone have a long lee they can share some good photos/info on to help me in my restoration? I doubt I'll find original wood... :p What wood was used for the long lee's stocks by the way? I'd like to find a nice match, though I'm pretty sure I'll need to stain to match given the aging.

pm SgtStriker - he used to have spare parts for the Long Lees and might be able to point you in the right direction. If that pans out, e-mail Brian #### at BDL Ltd. If that pans out too, as a LAST RESORT, sign up at Gunboards.com and pm Vulch (Lewis Maynard). Despite what some folks say of him, he does have a knack for locating rare bits and pieces.
 
MLE Parts

This summer I have noticed lots of the various metal bits showing up on ebay, and not very expensive either.
 
Hens teeth

Good luck with your resto. The Long Lee is one classy looking rifle. ePay is a good source for the metal parts, although you may end up paying big bucks if you get sucked into the bidding. I just place my best bid, sometimes i win, sometimes I loose. But I will bid on just about any part, never know when I may need one for future projects, eh?

Sounds like you will need the nosecap, screw, pling swivel, screw, lower barrel band, swivel, screw. Depending where Bubba cut, maybe a front volley sight assy?

Most of the spare parts floating around are in Austrailia or New Zealand. When the Brits rekitted with the SMLE, the thousands of Long Toms were sent to the Colonies. Most hobbiests there have the odd Long Lee part kicking about.

Barrels are the hardest to find, or rather, good shootable barrels are. Wood is almost impossible to find. Not too many people making repop wood, which got me thinking.

I am building a wood replicator as a winter project, I am going to try my hand at making my own stocks. English or Italian walnut is what they were made out of. A decent blank of comercial grade will run you about $100 these days.

I have my eyes on some old Walnut logs down at the local saw mill, I am going to check them out when they do a cut. See what grain and colour they produce.

Be prepared to take your time finding the parts. I have been diligently scrounging almost thirteen years for one rifle. Almost got it finished! But then, i am anal about finding the right part. For instance, you need a nose cap, right? There are two kinds of 'Rigby' caps, one for the Martini Enfield, one for the Magazine Lee Enfield. Both look much the same but have a different cutout for the sight ramp. There are two variations to the Lee Enfield, one with provision for the cleaning rod and one without. There are different manufactures, BSA and Enfield, each marked differently, and different Govt acceptance stamps depending on the year of inspection. Oh yes, and comercial versions for private sale rifles too. Similar deal with the barrel band.

This is only important if you are a compulsive , obsessive like me. I try to put back as close to factory as possible. In all reality, service rifles would have different marked replacement parts as a matter of course. The armourer just pulled a part from a bin and paid no mind to such details. But that is how you can 'read' a rifle and figure out some of its story.

Take some pics and post your project for us to see. This board is a great resource and there are some very knowledgeable people who are willing to help. As for reference pics, what do you need to see? I have camera :).

IMG_1246.jpg

Current projects
 
WOW! Hell of a long lee collection! The carbine at the bottom has some amazing wood, and this will sound crazy, but I've already found every part I need I do believe (from an 1896 MLE, the one I've bought is an 1897). Just fluke luck, and totally randomly. I will definitely do pics and keep you guys up to date. :)
 
Good score!

Ardent. Good score! Have horseshoes stuck somewhere, do you?

What is the story with the 1896 parts? Box of bits? Donor rifle? Any other parts available, huh? huh? Is there?

What are your plans for the restored 1897 rifle?

My 'pie in the sky' plan is to collect one Long Tom from each year of production. Four down, only twelve to go :)

This is less ambitious than my original plan of collecting 100 rifles, one each from 1888 to 1988. At one point I got as far as 32 rifles, all different years. These days I am a little more focused, I did alot of trading, passed many rifles along to other collectors. Long Toms are now what turns my crank (oh, and Martinis, and Sniders, and.......)
 
Ardent said:
With the brass pin at the rear of the fore end near the rear of the receiver, does it have to be drilled to remove the fore wood? I have sporter specific wood on the front end of mine, and need to remove for replacement by the fullwood.

NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!
DO NOT drill out that "pin" It has NOTHING TO DO with retaining the forend. Rather it is there to keep the arse end of the forend from spreading out on recoil. If you have removed all the other bits, and the stock doesn not want to move, it's probably either tight or being held in place by dried grease. Placing a piece of wood on the side of the stock in the area of the reciever and tapping on it with a small hammer should break the seal. (You may have to alternate sides)

The exception to the rule would be on the No4Mk1/3, No4Mk1/2 or the no4Mk2. where there is a slotted screw and nut in that position which must be removed because the trigger is hung on the reciever and it would foul that fixture.
 
Well, I only have one MLE (bought via the CGN trader board) but it is a absolute BEAUTY - it is an LSA commercial production rifle - for target shooting, but full military specs - except for the rear sight, which is a target sight permitted by the DCRA regs of the day.

Maybe these pics will help some ....

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mle_05.jpg
 
Volly sights

No doubt you have played with the sights and know how the rear sight flips up and the front sight arm rotates.

The front sight is adjusted so the desired range is indicated by the pointer on the arm, say, 2600yds. The arm will be pointing forward and down. (this is the reason that sling swivels are offset to the right, to clear this arm)

The rear sight is flipped up and you shoulder the arm peeping through the rear sight. The rear is aligned with the bobble on the front arm and brought onto target. Not very accurate, but then again, the idea was to lob rounds into the ballpark, not hit the home plate.
 
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