Little windage left after zeroing

Did you check if your crosshair was in center of windage and elevation before boresighting ?

I would go to one end of adjustment than count clicks to the other side then you know # of clicks of total adjustment back off to 1/2 and you start with crosshair in center.
Repeat for elevation and crosshair is dead in center both ways before boresighting.


when I boresighted I did need to move the windage quite a bit to have the crosshair centered. Should I proceed in a different way?
 
when I boresighted I did need to move the windage quite a bit to have the crosshair centered. Should I proceed in a different way?

I would do what I've posted above for both windage and elevation then you have crosshair in the center of the scope to begin with. (L.....+.....R)

Then I would boresight it again.

If you started with crosshair off to one side you could run out of adjustment to one side (L........+R)
 
Got ya

I should have verified if the clicks were even on both sides before starting. I guess I assumed so because the scope was new.

Burris rings on the way
 
I would do what I've posted above for both windage and elevation then you have crosshair in the center of the scope to begin with. (L.....+.....R)

Then I would boresight it again.

If you started with crosshair off to one side you could run out of adjustment to one side (L........+R)

Counted the clicks, 291 total on the elevation knob and my current zero is almost one full knob rotation, manufacturer states 70 MOA total adjustment (280 clicks).

Im not sure how I can boresight it better then what I already did. Should I physically move the scope? My current rings probably suck bad (vortex tactical 30mm low).
 
Counted the clicks, 291 total on the elevation knob and my current zero is almost one full knob rotation, manufacturer states 70 MOA total adjustment (280 clicks).

Im not sure how I can boresight it better then what I already did. Should I physically move the scope? My current rings probably suck bad (vortex tactical 30mm low).

If you backed off 145 clicks to the center then reticle will be in the center of the scope.
Now you need physically move the scope but not by forcing it to twist rings only by changing rings or rings and bases to ones that are adjustable .

This exercise proved that something is wrong with current mounting system.

IMO crosshair should be as close to center of the scope as possible once rifle is sighted in.
If you like to practice with this gun before new mounting system arrives I would sight it as you did before and got some trigger time.
 
The Burris inserts can correct both. Use the offsets laterally in one ring, vertically in the other.

As noted above, When you rotate the inserts in the rings, you will move the scope left or right, up or down. I used the 20 moa inserts in the rear ring to get more elevation, those were oriented horizontally/laterally with the +20 on the bottom and the -20 on top.

In the front I used the 10 moa inserts and they ended up being verticle (the groove they create), so as to move the scope for windage correction. As others have noted, make sure you're crosshairs are centered to begin with, for elevation and windage before you begin. I put a target at the end of the basement and set up the rifle on it's rear bag and bipod, bore sighted it to the target, and then started with the inserts. You can rotate them as needed to orient the scope to the same point of aim as the bore, then snug down the ring tops. In my one experience with these rings, it worked like a charm.
 
Peacefrog. If I understand correctly you mean i need to position both knob at the middle of their click range, then sight the target through the bore and before toutching any knob I move the scope with the inserts, right?

Then once tightened I play with the knob.

Any approximate distance for bore sighting?
 
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