Load Development

AJCrowley

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So I've been reloading my own for just under a year, and have enjoyed fairly consistent good results.

However, I've generally gone by the books, and stuck with what works.

What I'd like to do next is work out optimum loads for each of my guns. I'm not really sure where to start though. When trying different powders and amounts, it's hard to tell what's really best, because so much of it could be down to how well I'm shooting that day.

So, my questions:

What's the best method for load development? How many rounds should I load for each combination of powder/primer/bullet? What's the best way to test them, removing my own shooting skills as much as possible from the equation? Should I invest in a Chrony? If so, what's the difference between the Alpha and Beta models (other than the Beta seems to come in blue, and the Alpha in red)? Is there any other equipment that will help me better test my loads?

Thanks!
 
A chrono is always an awesome piece of equipment for load development. If you worry your skills will limit you then a Caldwell Lead Sled might not be a bad investment. As far as the "how to" is concerned with load development, there are a lot of different approaches. The best method I've came across sofar was on the 6mm BR website.

http://www.6mmbr.com/laddertest.html
 
"...invest in a Chrony..." They're a nice to have thing, but not necessary.
I've always started with the powder used in the Accuracy load given in my manual
for whatever bullet weight I'm loading.
Do this.
Beginning with the starting load given in your manual, load 5 rounds only(A mag load if your rifle holds less than 5). Go up by half a grain of powder, loading 5(mag load) of each keeping them separate until you get to the max load in your manual.
Then go shooting. Shoot at 100 yards, for group only, slowly and deliberately off a bench.
Change targets between strings of 5(mag load) and allow time for the barrel to cool.
When you find the best group, sight in.
 
First off get a bullet that shoots in your gun. Then find a few powders of the correct burning rate and find out which one shoots that bullet best in your gun. Most good manuals will list most accurate loads so look that stuff up and use those powders to start with. Nosler make a great manual and you will find a ton of info on working up the most accurate loads for your rifle.

I too use a chrono when experimenting with loads. I do not go as far as the lead sled or any kind of rest that takes me out of the equation. My goal is to develop loads that will get the best performance out of me and the rifle as a combination. I also want accuracy at ranges that I normally shoot. I am very comfortable at 100 or 200 yards because that is where the back stops are at my local range.

I load in 5 shot groups, usually starting 4 grains or so below max. I might load 55,56 57, and a max load of 58 grains of powder with the bullet seated .030 from the lands. If one charge shows better accuracy I will use it. If I arrive at max and my velocities are somewhat close to book value (but not above), I will use it if no other load seems better accuracy wise.

I will try various bullet seating depths or overall cartridge length and see what happens if I go closer or farther away from .030. I never want a load that is seated into or very near the lands. As a hunter I demand 100% reliability from my reloads. I rarely experiment with primers as I have proven to myself a long time ago the no major changes will come from them. Assuming you are using a primer of the correct type for the load you are using, I found other factors far more important.
 
I have to disagree about the chrono being a nice to have only.
Unless you are prepared to start, and stop, with the starting loads in the manuals, using exactly the components shown, you have no idea about velocities (and an idea of pressures) unless you have a chronograph.
I am not saying that there is a perfect correlation between velocities and pressures, as conditions of the bore and composition of the bullet, among other factors, can affect pressures. But, the chronograph will give you an idea of where you are treading.
 
First, define "optimum." What is optimum for you? Fastest safe load? Most accurate load? Some predetermined weighted compromise? Like in, really fast but group size not greatr than .x". Or, smallest possible group, consistent with a velocity greater than y fps?

And, for what purpose? Hunting, plinking, benchrest, silhouette, service rifle? All have differing demands for bullet type and profile, recoil (seldom a consideraton for hunting, but on day three of an 80 round a day silhouette match, recoil can be the deciding factor.)

Some folks even consider "efficiency" in determining optimum. Efficiency, as in least amount of powder to achieve the required accuracy or velocity.

Funny how so many of the replies just jump in and assume you mean by optimum, fastest. In which case a chronograph will be your only measure. And, in any load development scenario, a chronograph can give early warning that you are tempting the gods of pressure. If, as you work up the powder charge in wee little increments from the normal 10% reduced starting load, observing velocity increases as you go, if you increase the powder but fail to see a porportional increse in velocity, you have exceeded maximum charge weight. Even if you are below the listed maximum for that bullet with that powder in a current manual.

Be safe, have fun, and expect to assemble thousands of different combinations over your lifetime. Optimum to me is the load I just rolled!
 
First, define "optimum." What is optimum for you? Fastest safe load? Most accurate load? Some predetermined weighted compromise? Like in, really fast but group size not greatr than .x". Or, smallest possible group, consistent with a velocity greater than y fps?

That's a really good question, and one that I hadn't considered before.

I guess "optimum" to me means most accurate, as I do most of my shooting at inanimate objects (paper, tins etc) at 100 and 200 yards.

As I said, I've had great results and been shooting sub MOA just by taking an average number from two or three sources of reloading data, which by any stretch should be considered good enough. I just want to make sure I'm getting the most out of my gear.
 
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