ambishooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Southeastern Canuckstan
I am currently using a Lee Classic Cast Turret press for 9 mm. I saw this Load-Master Progressive Press for 9mm with more features. Any user info on this press?
Load-Master Progressive Press for 9MM Luger
- Thread starter ambishooter
- Start date
No for real get a dillon square deal b and save yourself the frustration of the priming system and the case collator is fail for 9mm anyway you will hand feed and hand prime eventually when you will get pissed enough like me.
If you still want a loadmaster i will sell you mine for cheap. It is in mint condition (but still sucks)I have the lastest priming system and it still fails to prime reliably.
If you still want a loadmaster i will sell you mine for cheap. It is in mint condition (but still sucks)I have the lastest priming system and it still fails to prime reliably.
Send me a PM with your price & what accessories it has. I have two LMs that work extremely well so they don't scare me off. Maybe I'm just lucky but as long as I keep the priming system clean I go hundreds of rounds at a time with nary a flipped/crushed primer.
Rod B
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Unless you are shooting an awful lot of rounds per week I would stay with the Classic Cast Turret press, it is a fine press. The Load Master & the Pro 1000 can be somewhat finicky.
- Location
- Halifax - NS
Don't do it. You spend as much time screwing with Lee progressives making them work as you do loading. Lee's turret and dies are good, but the progressives are painful. Look to Hornady or Dillon. It will cost more, but your time and potential hair loss is worth it. And yeah, I had a pro 1000 and jammaster until I finally listened to the consistent nagging of friends before I saw the light and bailed to Dillon.
Your #### will not fall off if you get a loadmaster. They have improved the priming system. I find my $40 case collator has a bit more issues than my $400 LNL one. But the LNL is not 10x better. The dillons are nice presses, but they come at a price and only you can decide what's important to you. The current downside of the loadmaster is the primer depth setup. It will stay consistent, but if you swap cartridge size, it difficult to re-set the same depth. The loadmaster has an excellent forum to give you information on getting it to run well. http://loadmastervideos.com/
Depends. Are you good at tweaking things and tinkering? If so you will have no problems with a Loadmaster. Just keep the primer feed full, and degrease (alcohol or similar) the primer feed path every couple thousand rounds an they chug along for thousands of rounds without any problems. They do much better if secured to a VERY stable bench.
It's a bit like buying a regular target rifle and putting some work into it to get excellent accuracy, or buy a Nemesis for several times the cost and just make up some loads.
If you want something to work without fiddling, spend several times as much and get Dillon or Hornady. I have both a Loadmaster and full Hornady setup.
It's a bit like buying a regular target rifle and putting some work into it to get excellent accuracy, or buy a Nemesis for several times the cost and just make up some loads.
If you want something to work without fiddling, spend several times as much and get Dillon or Hornady. I have both a Loadmaster and full Hornady setup.
No joking, I have cleaned that primer chute many times, it's always full and clean, and I got the lastest revision from lee (why are they at the 4th rev if everything works fine with it?)
really, the 4th does the same as the 3rd as the 2nd....
so what do I do? I need to check every single case after it has been (or not) primed, and then proceed. that is an extra step. it works ok that way, maybe I get 1/15 bad primer. oh well, I have not even shot for the past 2 months and I just dont have time for it (winter here), and until they open the indoor range, I am not shooting outside at below freezing temps...
really, the 4th does the same as the 3rd as the 2nd....
so what do I do? I need to check every single case after it has been (or not) primed, and then proceed. that is an extra step. it works ok that way, maybe I get 1/15 bad primer. oh well, I have not even shot for the past 2 months and I just dont have time for it (winter here), and until they open the indoor range, I am not shooting outside at below freezing temps...
- Location
- Kitchener,Ontario
I use the Loadmaster for all my round and it works just fine.I dont see why people seem to have a problem with them.
I can't comment on the Load Master, but I'm happy with my Lee Progressive 1000.
If you don't mind fine tuning the primer feed, and having the powder measure seep fine-grained powder, it can do the job...
I just loaded up 1100 9mm over a couple of evenings, with a grand total of about 5 quality control rejects / problems.....
Stan
If you don't mind fine tuning the primer feed, and having the powder measure seep fine-grained powder, it can do the job...
I just loaded up 1100 9mm over a couple of evenings, with a grand total of about 5 quality control rejects / problems.....
Stan
Dunno. I have a 20 year old Pro 1000 that we only ever used for .38 special. This year I bought shell plate carriers, spare turrets and parts to convert it and now load 9mm 45ACP and 45 colt without issues enough to make me want to shell out the better part of a grand to get the same functionality from a blue press.
You make sure the primer feed is always full and that the primers advance each stroke of the press. You set the timing so that it fully indexes well before BDC. You operate it consistently... not a big deal.
I re-used my old RCBS and Lyman dies in mine, buying only the appropriate Lee powder through expanding die. I just bought the hinky looking case collator for the top of the tubes and with 45 colt only had 2 in over 700 cases go in upside down.
In the last year I've loaded at least 4k .38 special, 4k 9mm, 2k 45ACP and close on 1000 45 Colt. I've had to pull a few dozen because of priming mishaps, and because of my developing a feel for the press I avoid pulling at least that many more when something just doesn't feel right for priming.
I use Bullseye, Titegroup, 231 in it. Sometimes you take some compressed air and blow some powder from the shell plate and priming area. Honestly that's after a good few hundred rounds.
I'd also scrap the Lee seating die, if only because I hate their floating seating plug, which binds and gives me deep bullets (and not just on this press...I friggin hate Lee dies in general for that and their half-assed lock rings).
Is up to you. If I could justify Blue. If I had the disposable income, hell sure I'd buy one.
But I don't, and this press works for me.
Buy the best tools that you can afford and you won't be disappointed.
Or buy the cheap one, cope with a few idiosyncrasies, and shoot more.
sorry for rambling
You make sure the primer feed is always full and that the primers advance each stroke of the press. You set the timing so that it fully indexes well before BDC. You operate it consistently... not a big deal.
I re-used my old RCBS and Lyman dies in mine, buying only the appropriate Lee powder through expanding die. I just bought the hinky looking case collator for the top of the tubes and with 45 colt only had 2 in over 700 cases go in upside down.
In the last year I've loaded at least 4k .38 special, 4k 9mm, 2k 45ACP and close on 1000 45 Colt. I've had to pull a few dozen because of priming mishaps, and because of my developing a feel for the press I avoid pulling at least that many more when something just doesn't feel right for priming.
I use Bullseye, Titegroup, 231 in it. Sometimes you take some compressed air and blow some powder from the shell plate and priming area. Honestly that's after a good few hundred rounds.
I'd also scrap the Lee seating die, if only because I hate their floating seating plug, which binds and gives me deep bullets (and not just on this press...I friggin hate Lee dies in general for that and their half-assed lock rings).
Is up to you. If I could justify Blue. If I had the disposable income, hell sure I'd buy one.
But I don't, and this press works for me.
Buy the best tools that you can afford and you won't be disappointed.
Or buy the cheap one, cope with a few idiosyncrasies, and shoot more.
sorry for rambling
Hi,
I have used a Lee Pro1000 for more than 15 years, and own 3 at present, each dedicated to a specific cartridge (9mmP and 40 S&W, one for 10mm Auto and one for 45 ACP). I changed to a Lee Load Master for 44 Mag, as I needed the better leverage which the smaller Lee Pro1000 could not give me (due to an old shoulder injury).
About 3 years ago I bought a Dillon 550B, but sold it after about 500 rounds, due to the fact that it does not have the auto advance indexing system. It was well made, expensive and all the extras very expensive, but lacked the auto advance indexing system. Interestingly, one of the guys who did my RSA HANDGUN reloading course earlier this year came to do the course after he blew up his new 9mmP S&W M&P with his second reloaded round, which had been loaded on a 550B. The problem seemed to be the fact that a small amount of fast powder was used, and the design of the 550 allowed him to do a double charge, due to the lack of an Auto-advance indexing system.
If I had to start from new right now, based on what I have seen, read and heard, I would look at the Hornady L-n-L or the Dillon 650. As for me now, I have worked on the Lee Pro1000 for so long and understand it so well, that I shall stay with it.
Hope this helps.
RSA1
I have used a Lee Pro1000 for more than 15 years, and own 3 at present, each dedicated to a specific cartridge (9mmP and 40 S&W, one for 10mm Auto and one for 45 ACP). I changed to a Lee Load Master for 44 Mag, as I needed the better leverage which the smaller Lee Pro1000 could not give me (due to an old shoulder injury).
About 3 years ago I bought a Dillon 550B, but sold it after about 500 rounds, due to the fact that it does not have the auto advance indexing system. It was well made, expensive and all the extras very expensive, but lacked the auto advance indexing system. Interestingly, one of the guys who did my RSA HANDGUN reloading course earlier this year came to do the course after he blew up his new 9mmP S&W M&P with his second reloaded round, which had been loaded on a 550B. The problem seemed to be the fact that a small amount of fast powder was used, and the design of the 550 allowed him to do a double charge, due to the lack of an Auto-advance indexing system.
If I had to start from new right now, based on what I have seen, read and heard, I would look at the Hornady L-n-L or the Dillon 650. As for me now, I have worked on the Lee Pro1000 for so long and understand it so well, that I shall stay with it.
Hope this helps.
RSA1
Blaming the press when it's obiously an operator mistake eh? My reloading golden rules are: Pay attention and don't do anything else when reloading. You can double charge even with a Dillon Super1050. Don't ask me how, but I've seen it, twice! To the OP, if you have the budget and want a reliable progressive press that is simple to operate, the Square Deal B is your best option.
Hi Antoine22,
No blame was directed at any equipment, just stating a fact. You are absolutely correct that most problems are caused by human error, mostly because we tend not to read the instructions. However, the Lee Pro 1000, LoadMaster, Hornady L-n-L and Dillon 650 do have the Auto Advance indexing which is absent on the 550B, and therefore the first mentioned progressive presses eliminate the possibility of a double charge when moving the handle down and up through one full cycle.
RSA1
No blame was directed at any equipment, just stating a fact. You are absolutely correct that most problems are caused by human error, mostly because we tend not to read the instructions. However, the Lee Pro 1000, LoadMaster, Hornady L-n-L and Dillon 650 do have the Auto Advance indexing which is absent on the 550B, and therefore the first mentioned progressive presses eliminate the possibility of a double charge when moving the handle down and up through one full cycle.
RSA1
