Loading the M1 Garand problem

ryan9991

ryan9991

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Fort McMurray, Alberta
Just received my M1 garand today from James river armoury which was imported by Wanstalls. I had some 30-06 dummy rounds loaded up in an enbloc and tried to load the rifle. I thought that when you depress the ______________ (Fill in the blank please, I'm stumped haha) with the enbloc that when it clicks the bolt lurches forward. I'm afraid that I will get the garand thumb!

I thought that as long as you have the pressure on it the action will stay locked until pressure is released?

Note that I have not fired the rifle and it may not have been fired very much (Post WW2 SA receiver w/ a criterion barrel)
So maybe it is a issue that may change after a break in period?

Thanks
Ryan
 
My Garand is also fairly "new", when I loaded my first en bloc i was scared as sh!t the bolt would bite into me. Pulled my thumb out of there so fast you couldn't see my hand move. Bolt stayed right where it was, I have to slap the bolt handle with my palm to get it to load.

Not sure if it will loosen up with time and if so how much time, I guess it'll be a little game of Russian Roulette between my Garand and I.
 
So, what exactly happened? The drill is to hold the bolt back with the edge of your right hand while pushing down on the en bloc with your right thumb. Once the clip has seated you get your hand out of the way and let the bolt go forward. If you leave the bolt against the stop while inserting the clip you may need to pull the bolt back a bit to let the stop release properly. Not keeping your hand on the bolt handle is a great way to get Garand thumb.


Mark
 
My garand is similar. Sometimes the bolt will go forward on its own after inserting the enbloc. Other times I have it give it the garand bump. It's just a little love tap.
 
When the enblock clip is catched, the bolt normally go forward a bit. It is not supposed to go any furter as long as you keep pressure and fully close when you release pressure on the enbloc
 
tactical_tech said:
My garand is similar. Sometimes the bolt will go forward on its own after inserting the enbloc. Other times I have it give it the garand bump. It's just a little love tap.
Click to expand...

Mine is just the same, seems to vary, but the correct way to load is a stated above. The first time I used the rifle it also wouldn't chamber the rounds properly (every 3rd or 4th round) so cleaned out the gas cylinder/port etc. and its much better. Gary at Wanstalls said that very little cleaning is required prior to use, but the inside of my gas cylinder was black with carbon...
 
mmattockx said:
So, what exactly happened? The drill is to hold the bolt back with the edge of your right hand while pushing down on the en bloc with your right thumb. Once the clip has seated you get your hand out of the way and let the bolt go forward. If you leave the bolt against the stop while inserting the clip you may need to pull the bolt back a bit to let the stop release properly. Not keeping your hand on the bolt handle is a great way to get Garand thumb.
Mark
Click to expand...

Alright willco with holding the hand alongside the action to prevent garand thumb

gonzzzooo said:
When the enblock clip is catched, the bolt normally go forward a bit. It is not supposed to go any furter as long as you keep pressure and fully close when you release pressure on the enbloc
Click to expand...

This is the answer i was looking for, when there was the click it moved forward and I wasn't sure if it was normal. With an enbloc of dummies I have a VERY tough time chambering the first round.

tommyinbc said:
Mine is just the same, seems to vary, but the correct way to load is a stated above. The first time I used the rifle it also wouldn't chamber the rounds properly (every 3rd or 4th round) so cleaned out the gas cylinder/port etc. and its much better. Gary at Wanstalls said that very little cleaning is required prior to use, but the inside of my gas cylinder was black with carbon...
Click to expand...

Yours was also JRA? How is the performance so far, how many rounds have you shot etc? Do you have any insight on me having a hard time chambering the first round? (Insert en bloc, bolt moves forward, hit the op rod multiple times to chamber the first round) or is it just a break in issue?

Will do on the gas cylinder cleaning!
 
Yours was also JRA? How is the performance so far, how many rounds have you shot etc? Do you have any insight on me having a hard time chambering the first round? (Insert en bloc, bolt moves forward, hit the op rod multiple times to chamber the first round) or is it just a break in issue?

Yep, its a JRA. I'm happier now the rifle is chambering the rounds better. Does seem to get better after 100 plus rounds through it (now shot around 150 rounds) Just also made sure areas which require lubricant were done as well. Not sure what your issue is regarding chambering the initial round. Perhaps a problem with the dummy rounds, make sure they are loaded correctly in the clip and lube areas as denoted in the handbook..If you release the bolt slowly, can you see what is snagging?... It shouldn't be a fight to get the first round in, but rifle does require 'losening up' (mine did anyway)
 
tommyinbc said:
Yours was also JRA? How is the performance so far, how many rounds have you shot etc? Do you have any insight on me having a hard time chambering the first round? (Insert en bloc, bolt moves forward, hit the op rod multiple times to chamber the first round) or is it just a break in issue?

Yep, its a JRA. I'm happier now the rifle is chambering the rounds better. Does seem to get better after 100 plus rounds through it (now shot around 150 rounds) Just also made sure areas which require lubricant were done as well. Not sure what your issue is regarding chambering the initial round. Perhaps a problem with the dummy rounds, make sure they are loaded correctly in the clip and lube areas as denoted in the handbook..If you release the bolt slowly, can you see what is snagging?... It shouldn't be a fight to get the first round in, but rifle does require 'losening up' (mine did anyway)
Click to expand...

I'll have to try it again tomorrow, I plan on doing a complete detailed strip before taking it to the range, but It will have to wait for my exams to be done anyways!
Another issue I had was the windage knob. I had a hell of a time rotating it and finally got it to move a few clicks on one direction, but it is still quite stubborn. Have you had any issues with that?

Also are you shooting american eagle garand loads or do you handload? If handloading what do you use? I plan to shoot bulk 150 gr FMJ's but have no plans for a powder (Maybe 4895 or 4064)
 
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When your load your enbloc clips, load the first round on the LEFT side, so that the last round is located on the RIGHT side. This way, it makes it a bit easier to push down with the thumb.

As stated, hold the clip in your right hand when inserting it, then push down with your thumb while keeping your fingers straight on the right side of the stock, with the side of you hand holding back the bolt. If necessary, you can push the operating rod handle backwards slightly to release the bolt lock. You then bring your hand upwards like you are saluting someone and the rifle should chamber the rounds.

When reloading for the M-1 Garand, stick to MANUFACTURERS or NRA recommended loads. The M-1 requires a limited pressure to operate, and this gas is taken off through a hole near the muzzle. The use of the wrong powder or powder charge can increase this gas pressure beyond designed operating limits, and you will end up with a bent operating rod. Be Warned.
 
buffdog said:
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When your load your enbloc clips, load the first round on the LEFT side, so that the last round is located on the RIGHT side. This way, it makes it a bit easier to push down with the thumb.
Click to expand...

Unless you are left handed like me and load from the left side of the rifle.
 
Sometimes you will encounter a Garand with a timing problem on loading which causes the bolt to release too late or too early when the clip is inserted. Most often this is due to a worn nose on the bullet guide which serves as a fulcrum for the op rod catch.
 
A properly functioning Garand shouldn't bite you upon loading an enbloc. You should have to bump the action closed. If it closes upon inserting the enbloc without you bumping it, you have a worn part as Purple mentioned above.

You WILL give yourself Garand thumb if you stick your hand in the action while cleaning it without a clip

 
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A&Shuntr said:
Unless you are left handed like me and load from the left side of the rifle.
Click to expand...

Well, since 10% of the people are left handed, that means 90% of us are "normal". Laugh2

I have never tried to load a M-1 Garand left handed, so I will take your word for it. :D

However, for those people who fear the dreaded "M-1 thumb," I would advise you not to even look at a Swedish AG-42B. Comparing the M-1 Garand to the AG-42B is like comparing your pet Goldfish to Jaws.
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AG-42b.jpg
 
Buffdog, I load the mag on my AG42b outside the rifle then insert it. But you are correct, when that bolt closes it's like a freight train! And since the gas port is just above the chamber, you get a double whammy!:eek:

When they were first imported here You would always see them on the racks in the gun store with the bolt open since the "trigger snappers" could not figure out how to close it
 
A newly re-parkerized Garand will often be a bit sluggish in the action until the new finish wears smooth. It is important to lube the rifle with grease at all specified lube points to facilitate proper functioning.

If the windage knob is too tight you need to loosen the nut in the center of the knob one click at a time until it turns more freely. Loosening the windage knob will also affect the spring tension on the elevation knob so you don't want it too loose. The ideal setting is where the elevation knob will turn with audible clicks and where it will not run down if thumb pressure is applied to the top of the aperture if it is raised towards the top of it's travel. At this point you should also be able to move the windage knob without undue effort.

The center screw in the elevation knob also needs to be tight to maintain proper tension. This is done by grasping the knob in a pair of pliers with the knob padded with leather or something which will prevent marring the metal. After the elevation knob is held firmly in the pliers turn the center screw in with a proper fitting screwdriver as tight as it will go.

One common cause for an elevation knob slipping after the sights have been properly tightened is that the raised "tit" on the inner face of the knob can become worn to the point where it will skip over the corresponding serrations on the receiver. In this case the elevation knob will require replacement.

In the absence of MILSPEC .30-06 ammo handloading is the way to go. Use bullets in the 150-168gr range with either IMR 4895, IMR 4064 or H4895. The Hornady 150gr FMJBT is the most accurate of the non-match FMJ bullets and is comparatively cheap to boot.
 
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