Loctite or lock washer for Dlask M14 flashider?
- Thread starter gorky
- Start date
Mine are 1/2x28 but my barrels were also cut down by Dlask.
oh ok, thanks
that'll save me some useless cash spending
or get your barrel cut and get the flash hider as well
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
Drill out the roll pin/set screw and spin FH off with castle nut pliers. I'll be doing the chop-saw treatment and then having it threaded and crowned.
Where have you been boyfriens ...
grinding holes and drilling is so ...
PASSE!
Thomas [ M14 DOC ] teaches a neat and easy way to remove the flashiders at his Wet Coast M14 clinics. What he does is UNSCREW the castle nut retaining ring and keep on unscrewing it, till the castle nut pliers are putting serious tension on the front of the hole the ring sits in.
Then, with the receiver held IMMOBILE in the receiver vice, one good wack at the boss [ used to be the bayo lug ] at the bottom of the flash hider, and they consistently pop off ...
slicker than Goose $H!T.
What?
You don have no stinkin castle nut pliers and no receiver vice?
Why then you better get yourself down to the next Wetcoast M14 seminar.
OR,
there is the LAZ 1 recommended method of removing M14 flashiders ....
MR CHOPSAW!!!
OR,
for Mr Bubba,
STICK THE FLASHIDER INTO THE 3/4 HP BENCH GRINDER, and keep shoving till all that bad chit goes away, and the barrel length is close to what it should have been in the first place..
[;{)
LAZ 1
grinding holes and drilling is so ...
PASSE!
Thomas [ M14 DOC ] teaches a neat and easy way to remove the flashiders at his Wet Coast M14 clinics. What he does is UNSCREW the castle nut retaining ring and keep on unscrewing it, till the castle nut pliers are putting serious tension on the front of the hole the ring sits in.
Then, with the receiver held IMMOBILE in the receiver vice, one good wack at the boss [ used to be the bayo lug ] at the bottom of the flash hider, and they consistently pop off ...
slicker than Goose $H!T.
What?
You don have no stinkin castle nut pliers and no receiver vice?
Why then you better get yourself down to the next Wetcoast M14 seminar.
OR,
there is the LAZ 1 recommended method of removing M14 flashiders ....
MR CHOPSAW!!!
OR,
for Mr Bubba,
STICK THE FLASHIDER INTO THE 3/4 HP BENCH GRINDER, and keep shoving till all that bad chit goes away, and the barrel length is close to what it should have been in the first place..
[;{)
LAZ 1
PS: I use BLE loctite, and an AR 15 CONCAVE crush washer. These washers allow almost infinite adjustability [ crush to fit ] to get the FH or Compensator top up. They are even reusable a few times.
PPS: Real men don't put flash hiders on their M14 shorties, uinless they aare actually planning sopme time on the two way range.
Real men [ and gamesmen shooting against the stop waqtch for score ] use some type of muzzle brake or compensator. this will take about 1/3 off your time for double taps, or fast strings of multiple shots.
On the M14 shorties I build, I personally like the Dlask 7/8" 3 port design, that Miceluk originated. Dlask is now making them in 1", for even more effectiveness, and has a new design with three thinner ports angled forwards, to cut down on muzzle blast to the sides. Shooting 7.6 NATO ball out of shorty M14 with a Dlask/Miceluk 3 port comp, is close in recoil to shooting an SKS with .30 Ruski.
of course, as with any opinion you get for free off the internet,
YPMMV.
[;{)
LAZ 1
PPS: Real men don't put flash hiders on their M14 shorties, uinless they aare actually planning sopme time on the two way range.
Real men [ and gamesmen shooting against the stop waqtch for score ] use some type of muzzle brake or compensator. this will take about 1/3 off your time for double taps, or fast strings of multiple shots.
On the M14 shorties I build, I personally like the Dlask 7/8" 3 port design, that Miceluk originated. Dlask is now making them in 1", for even more effectiveness, and has a new design with three thinner ports angled forwards, to cut down on muzzle blast to the sides. Shooting 7.6 NATO ball out of shorty M14 with a Dlask/Miceluk 3 port comp, is close in recoil to shooting an SKS with .30 Ruski.
of course, as with any opinion you get for free off the internet,
YPMMV.
[;{)
LAZ 1
What is so different about the concave crush washer ? I assume I cannot just go down to Home Depot to find such a thing that might work ? Is the crush washer just for the adjustability or does it add to the tightness and grip ?
The crush washer compresses which allows you to index your brake to the proper position. You can usually get about 3/8 of a turn out of them, if your more than that out of allignment you just rub it with a file (a little at a time). You want a certain amount of compression to lock it in place and you won't need any loctite (people get a little carried away with that stuff)
The old 7/8" brake with 3 ports that is made today in 1" diameter both for AR and VZ, is an original Canadian design and it has nothing to do with the Miculek. It beats the Miculek one and most of the other brakes by miles. Indeed, that Dlask brake is probably the most performant brake on the market.
This is what I ended up doing. I couldnt find a crush washer that would work satisfactory so I went the blue loctite route. Checked it today during and after shooting - no issues at all (other than the scope)
