Long Range .22lr

You could first try the 20MOA base, if that doesn't give you enough you could add a 20MOA mount to give you 40 total extra?
 
The Burris inserts may add.
20 moa insert in one ring and 10 in the other might give 30(I think you have to rotate them opposite eachother or they will work against eachother).
As a plus they kinda protect the tube from marks.
 
Don't shim the rings. If anything you want to shim the base. Shimming the rings will put them out of alignment and torque your scope, and will definitely put undue stresses on everything.

If you want to shoot really far with a .22, you'll want something along the lines of this adjustable rail: https://arcanglesolution.wordpress.com/2012/11/09/hom/. There are other, simpler designs available as well.

The Cold Shot M.O.A.B. looks pretty solid and is a bit less expensive at around $400 US.
Comes with either 150 MOA or 300 MOA of adjustment
Cold-Shot-A-500x500.jpg
 
I've got nothing to suggest for options but I'd just like to give you an interwebz pat on the back for pushing the boundaries for rimfire shooting.

I've done a bit of shooting out to 200 with a variety of ammo enough to know that this is very cool stuff. And like you I want to do more. I figure that shooting a lowly .22LR to 300 and 400 yards is very much akin to larger center fire rounds at 1000 and 1500 yards.
 
A friend of mine and myself have a wilderness lake we go to that has lots of stumps in the water at 200-600yds and is all swampy behind it. We laser range stumps and then try to hit them aiming at objects on shore. Most of the time you can't see what you are trying to hit in the scope. You can easily get back on target to see a miss, or not, at those ranges. I have always found it really amazing how accurate the .22 is at long range in calm conditions but throw in some variable winds and even 200yd targets are hard. We mostly use my FV-SR in a Boyds tacti-cool stock with a Bushnell 6-24x40 on it. I am thinking of upgrading to Signature Z rings with +10 or 20 inserts but I don't know what I would use for a zero then. My buddy got 9 out of 10 @ 478yds last fall on what we estimated to be a 12" stump after we had figured out the aiming point.
 
Thanks for all the kind words and suggestions gentleman. I've decided what I'll be trying out first. I'll try out the EGW 20 MOA rail with my new scope. If that doesn't get me out far enough as I want then I might try Burris Signature rings. The scope is ordered and I'm contacting Mystic Precision to get a quote on the rail. I'll let you know how everything goes and post updates.

On a side note, heres a target from one of my first outings ever with this rifle. I was only shooting at 50 yds but i think the groups can speak for themselves as to why this is one of my favourite guns. I honestly can't remember/tell if these were 3 or 5 shot groups. I think they're 5...what I do remember though was that the ammo was Winchester 333.

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I use Burris Signiture Zee on a CZ Silhouette 22RF. The scope is a Bushnell 3200 Tactical 10X with 80 moa total erector. The rings put ~ another 20 moa into the system. This set up is good to 300+ yards.

Standard velocity works better at distance.
 
I use Burris Signiture Zee on a CZ Silhouette 22RF. The scope is a Bushnell 3200 Tactical 10X with 80 moa total erector. The rings put ~ another 20 moa into the system. This set up is good to 300+ yards.

Standard velocity works better at distance.

+1 on the SV, mine likes the Federal Blue box ones.
 
That's pretty good results for what is considered cheap ammo.

The 333 stuff is high velocity which means it's supersonic. You may find that at longer distances it doesn't group as nicely as subsonic ammo. Apparently the bullets get buffeted a lot as they fall through the transition back to subsonic and that shows up as bigger groups than expected at longer distances. That's a key reason why the 50 and 100 yard bench rest guys use subsonic match ammo.
 
I did a lot of 200yd rimfire shooting last year with my TR. I found the cci AR tactical had the least amount of drop. I was able to get 0 at 200yd s using all my elevation on my turret and my bottom hash mark on a vortex cross fire 6-24×50. Once past 200 you need a 20 moa rail.
 
A friend of mine and myself have a wilderness lake we go to that has lots of stumps in the water at 200-600yds and is all swampy behind it. We laser range stumps and then try to hit them aiming at objects on shore. Most of the time you can't see what you are trying to hit in the scope. You can easily get back on target to see a miss, or not, at those ranges. I have always found it really amazing how accurate the .22 is at long range in calm conditions but throw in some variable winds and even 200yd targets are hard. We mostly use my FV-SR in a Boyds tacti-cool stock with a Bushnell 6-24x40 on it. I am thinking of upgrading to Signature Z rings with +10 or 20 inserts but I don't know what I would use for a zero then. My buddy got 9 out of 10 @ 478yds last fall on what we estimated to be a 12" stump after we had figured out the aiming point.

How do you like the stock? Think it was worth the purchase?

Considering one for when I pick up my FV-SR tomorrow
 
How do you like the stock? Think it was worth the purchase?

Considering one for when I pick up my FV-SR tomorrow

It's nice if all you are going to do is shoot from a bench. It's a little heavy for carting around IMO. They inlet them more than I think is necessary so there are a couple of weak points so get some DIP bottom metal if you do decide to get one. Some one on here was selling heavy gauge bottom metal also. Pillar bedding, I did it to mine, is even better but you still want the heavy bottom metal. You will also need the longer action screws, you can get those from Boyds when you order the stock.
 
It's nice if all you are going to do is shoot from a bench. It's a little heavy for carting around IMO. They inlet them more than I think is necessary so there are a couple of weak points so get some DIP bottom metal if you do decide to get one. Some one on here was selling heavy gauge bottom metal also. Pillar bedding, I did it to mine, is even better but you still want the heavy bottom metal. You will also need the longer action screws, you can get those from Boyds when you order the stock.

Thanks for the info. I was able to get the FV-SR today and I think I will try out the factory stock with some sort of cheek riser first.

I will have my Vortex Diamondback 4-12 sometime next week, cant wait to start hitting my gong at 300 yards

Any muzzle devices worth looking for? (other than drooling over suppressors...)
 
Thanks for the info. I was able to get the FV-SR today and I think I will try out the factory stock with some sort of cheek riser first.

I will have my Vortex Diamondback 4-12 sometime next week, cant wait to start hitting my gong at 300 yards

Any muzzle devices worth looking for? (other than drooling over suppressors...)

There are very few muzzle devices that are made the .8" diameter of the Savage barrel, most stuff is .920 to match Ruger barrels. I am working on making my own, just too many other projects getting in the way at the moment.
 
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