Long Range Reticles

Camoman1

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Reticles like the SKMR3 from Kahles has .2 mil windage marks. How valuable is this vs something like S&B's P4FL with 1 and .5 marks?

I plan on shooting 800-1200 yards
 
Depends what you like . Some people prefer to dial corrections some people , like myself , prefer holds . About 5 years ago I switched to the h58 then h59 reticles . Now I'm basically ruined for anything else .

It also depends what style of shooting you plan to do .. bench rest , PRS etc
 
I plan on holding for windage, dial holdover. And for style of shooting, I don't see me going to any compititions anytime soon, just shooting steel as far as possible... hunting one day once I become profeicient enough.

Am I mistaken about S&B not having a reticle with finer windage marks? No real busy Horus reticles
 
H59 is about the best you can have. Some say is busy but when you get use to it you can hold when others are taking valuable time dialing. It is as good as you can get on a reticle. My personal opinion only...

Take some time and shoot with it and you will see. The rest will say that there is better but they have likely not used the H59. Again, my personal opinion... shoot what you like how you like and forget the rest. H59 works for me.
 
H59 is about the best you can have. Some say is busy but when you get use to it you can hold when others are taking valuable time dialing. It is as good as you can get on a reticle. My personal opinion only...

Take some time and shoot with it and you will see. The rest will say that there is better but they have likely not used the H59. Again, my personal opinion... shoot what you like how you like and forget the rest. H59 works for me.

When you're zoomed in for the long shots, don't you lose the part of of the reticle you need for holdover, the bottom portion?
 
I can make that call. Zoom to where you like. Reduce the zoom and you can still hold what you need or dial what you want. It gives me the flexibility to make the call and that helps make the shot. Other reticles will do the same if you work with them enough. The only thing I have every wanted on the h59 is to have a few mils above the line for hold under. Wind would be a non issue at that point...
 
I can make that call. Zoom to where you like. Reduce the zoom and you can still hold what you need or dial what you want. It gives me the flexibility to make the call and that helps make the shot. Other reticles will do the same if you work with them enough. The only thing I have every wanted on the h59 is to have a few mils above the line for hold under. Wind would be a non issue at that point...

Agree on that 100%. I'm a huge fan of the H59 reticle and haven't tried anything that I like better yet but I do wish there was about 3 or 4 mils above the line to hold under. I certainly wouldn't choose to go back to a reticle that doesn't have 0.2 mil hashes. I also don't find the H59 too busy...

I had to come back to this as I got to thinking about how to mitigate the lack of "hold under" available on the H59. There are only 2 mils of hold under and only 1 hash separating them. You could use the top of the post as an accurate aiming point so I think what I'd like to try is simply adding 2.0 mils to the first distance (what I would dial), if that makes sense? For instance, at my private spot I have steel at 305(345), 690(730), 760(800), 830(870), 940(980). Distances in brackets are from the 2nd firing position. If I dial for 305 (1.2 mils today) at 940 I'd have to hold a further 7.2 mils. I've done it but you're pretty far down in the reticle and zoomed out as well. It's pretty easy to dial for the 2nd target (was 5.0 mils today) and then hold over out to 940 as your biggest hold is 3.4 mils but you can't hold under for the 305 yard target. I figure you either dial for 305 and then dial for 690 and hold from there or what I'd like to try is dialling for 305 + 2.0 mils (so 3.2 mils) and using the top of the post as the aiming point and then holding over for the rest. That way my hold at 940 would be 5.2 mils and if needed, I could be more zoomed in or just not so far down towards the bottom of the reticle. I kinda wish I'd thought about it earlier today and given it a shot...
 
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I'm tickled pink with my P4LF reticle, clean and functional reticle, that being said my next optic is all but guranteed to have a horus reticle. It will take some getting used to but as stated here, once you get on it, there is no touching it. At least not yet.

Horus guys I am curious your take on the h59 vs tremor 2 reticles?
 
I'm tickled pink with my P4LF reticle, clean and functional reticle, that being said my next optic is all but guranteed to have a horus reticle. It will take some getting used to but as stated here, once you get on it, there is no touching it. At least not yet.

Horus guys I am curious your take on the h59 vs tremor 2 reticles?


Interested in feedback here as well.....used an H59 once and found it a bit much, but at the same time understand why it's so good. Also heard that the Tremor 2 is picking up some momentum.
Next scope will be one or the other.
 
Interested in feedback here as well.....used an H59 once and found it a bit much, but at the same time understand why it's so good. Also heard that the Tremor 2 is picking up some momentum.
Next scope will be one or the other.

I don't think many people are running Tremor 2s anymore. It's pretty much between the H59 and the Tremor 3. They're pretty similar but the Tremor 3 has the addition of the wind dots. I've yet to look through a T3 but have a friend who just got one so I'm curious to compare them. You probably can't go wrong with either, I imagine you'd just adapt.
 
Love the H59s. I dialed all season long as I didnt have time to practice much with just the holds but now I am pretty much just holding and it is great.
 
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I ran a G2 reticle (0.5 hash marks and narrow tree) last year with decent results , but now have a HDMR with the H59 and will switch to it next year.

There’s no reason to restrict yourself. The grid is there when you need it, ignore it when you don’t.

With the G2 tree I’ve had to hold off in no-mans land and didn’t care for that too much.

As far as the tremor 2 and 3, they have the advantage over a H58/59 by having hash marks above the center allwing hold-under as well as 0.1mil chevrons for ranging, but I find the wind dots to be cluttering and obsolete if you are using a Kestrel and a good ballistics app anyway.
 
My PRS comp gun has a Khales with the SKMR3 reticle - I love it. Works great for holdovers, you can be very quick and effective with it. I've used mine out to 1,100 yards quite effectively using just holdovers for wind & elevation. For me, it's the best reticle that I've used for ~1200 yards and in. For your purposes, it will be a great reticle.

Where it lacks is if you want to REALLY reach out there. I found that it was somewhat limiting when shooting my 6.5 creedmoor out to 2,200 yards. For those really long shots, you are off into "no mans" land on the reticle, you are putting the target on dead space on the reticle, hoping that you have your windage and elevation lined up correctly. For true ELR type work, reticles with a more serious christmas tree are going to work better. H58/59, Tremor, AMR, etc. My personal ELR gun has a Khales with the AMR reticle - holdovers with 0.2 mil graduation on both vertical and horizontal axis'.

Reticles are very personal and subjective. If you are under the clock, or if you are shooting for points, those 0.2 mil hash marks can make a big difference. For plinking, practice or just general target shooting, you can still be very effective with 0.5 mil hash marks. I have a couple of scopes with MSR reticles (0.5 mil hash marks), which work just fine for general shooting purposes. But for competitions or times when you have to make the one shoot really count, I love my SKMR3 reticle and 0.2 mil hash marks.
 
kthomas nailed it. I have a number of rets - P4F, Gen II XR etc - which are great if you have time but the SKMR3 or EBR 2C are the cats PJ's if under time pressure.
 
One of the main reasons the Razor II and the Kahles are the top scopes in the PRS is because most of there features came about because these companies LISTENED to what people wanted. The SKMR3 and the EBR-2C fit the bill perfectly because they were exactly what people were asking for.
 
Cool thanks for the info, I really don't plan on shooting under time restraints, I love the science of ballistics and my goal is to be able to shoot as far as possible focusing on first or as close to first round hits as possible. Right now I am setting up my 6.5 creed hopefully get me past 1400 consistently, one day get into ELR but then id like to step it up to a true ELR cartridge.. 338 or some 7mm super magnum.
 
If you aren't planning to compete and shoot on the clock, and dialing for all the distances, the Xmas tree reticles have limited use. They do work well as others have suggested but may not be that useful to your current needs.

You may find that a Hash Mark reticle ... ie windage markings, is all that you need.

Regardless, choose a reticle that matches the click unit of the scope.. mil/mil or MOA/MOA. Given the distances you want to reach out to, internal elevation adjustment is a very important need and I would look at scopes with at least 60mins to reach out... more elevation travel will be useful and many scopes offer 80 to 100mins without costing the moon.

Tracking and return to zero will be very important and here some brands do better then others. Most of the scopes mentioned are over $2K and work but not sure if you were planning such a budget?

with a more modest budget, getting a quality scope with good optics, tracking/mechanicals and reticle become more tricky but more options are coming online each year.

The 6.5 Creedmoor and bullets in the 140/142gr range have no issue reaching out. Some bullets are transonic stable, others are not so that becomes something to consider when reaching way out.

Good luck with your journey

Jerry
 
If you aren't planning to compete and shoot on the clock, and dialing for all the distances, the Xmas tree reticles have limited use. They do work well as others have suggested but may not be that useful to your current needs.

You may find that a Hash Mark reticle ... ie windage markings, is all that you need.

Regardless, choose a reticle that matches the click unit of the scope.. mil/mil or MOA/MOA. Given the distances you want to reach out to, internal elevation adjustment is a very important need and I would look at scopes with at least 60mins to reach out... more elevation travel will be useful and many scopes offer 80 to 100mins without costing the moon.

Tracking and return to zero will be very important and here some brands do better then others. Most of the scopes mentioned are over $2K and work but not sure if you were planning such a budget?

with a more modest budget, getting a quality scope with good optics, tracking/mechanicals and reticle become more tricky but more options are coming online each year.

The 6.5 Creedmoor and bullets in the 140/142gr range have no issue reaching out. Some bullets are transonic stable, others are not so that becomes something to consider when reaching way out.

Good luck with your journey

Jerry

Thanks Jerry, I am looking for a top tier scope. I like the idea of buy once cry once.. I was set on a S&B for the longest time but I'm not a huge fan of the PLF,, I think I prefer the .2 mil wind markings on the Kahles skmr. Now I'm thinking K624I SKMR/3 vs Nightforce ATACR f1 Mil-C, both hove .2 reticles. K624I has less elevation range (will only be an issue if I move this scope onto a true ELR rig, but I may not have the money for a new scope in the future) but I worry about Nightforce's Mechanicaly calibrated clicks and ruggedness compared to the Kahles.
 
Thanks Jerry, I am looking for a top tier scope. I like the idea of buy once cry once.. I was set on a S&B for the longest time but I'm not a huge fan of the PLF,, I think I prefer the .2 mil wind markings on the Kahles skmr. Now I'm thinking K624I SKMR/3 vs Nightforce ATACR f1 Mil-C, both hove .2 reticles. K624I has less elevation range (will only be an issue if I move this scope onto a true ELR rig, but I may not have the money for a new scope in the future) but I worry about Nightforce's Mechanicaly calibrated clicks and ruggedness compared to the Kahles.

Don't discount the Khales for true ELR work. There are tools that can overcome the limitation of travel in the scopes. Adjustable rings such as the Ivey, or a prism such as a Charlie Tarac (or even both in conjunction with each other) will easily make the scope ELR capable.
 
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