Looking at a Savage Mk II

Island_Trooper

Island_Trooper

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Looking to grab a Savage Mk II (Lots of threads on this) and found this package deal on WSS

h ttp://ca.wholesalesports.com/storefront/firearms/rimfire-rifles/mark-ll-22-lr-rimfire-bolt-action-package/prod224432.html

Was wondering if anyone could comment on it, is it an FV model? I figure the scope is probably junk, but will get me started. Anyone know of a better deal looking for the a FV model with a scope and rings for around 300.

Thanks for the info!
 
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Oh and Concept of Use (the TNP thing) basically to learn the basics of precision shooting to eventually move up in caliber and to have something fun to plink with. Open to other options as well just heard a lot of good things about the Mk II
 
The FV is just the cheaper plastic-stocked version without the irons, right? One thing to possibly consider, since you are scoping it, is the cheaper wood model, the G, has a higher cheek, which some people(alright, by some people I mean me) find better for scoped use.
I've posted this comparison before but here goes:

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The wood on the mkII g's tends to not be particularly nice, from what I've seen, but for the money, seems like a good buy. I have one and like it. The accutrigger is reasonably good.

Also, I think the link is broken or unavailable for whatever you posted.
 
My buddy shoots this combo. Scope is cheap, yes, but it does the job. Shoots almost as well as my winchester wildcat.

They are nice.

If you have the extra cash, the upgraded models / stocks are nice - but see for yourself.

I think for the money, it's a fine deal.
 
I have savage mk II and couldn't be happier with it for the price. Can't comment on the scope it comes with but I'd just buy the rifle alone and get a different scope. I always tend to stay away from "package" scopes.
 
The savage plastic stocks are the worst. You are looking down the barrel with a scope on it. Before I changed the stock on my 93 my check wasnt even touching the stock to shoot.
 
I've got a MkIIF, shoots very well. I found the bolt was a little stiff to operate at first, but after ~50 rounds, if feels very smooth. Irons on that gun sucked though. Just wouldn't stay still. So I got a Simmons 3-9x32mm scope, and my lord she's sooo accurate!! 2 inch groups at 100yds, easy. I wish I would have paid the extra $20 for the heavy barrel, would have been neat to see the difference.

I've noted that the cheek on the synth is a little low, but it still feels very natural, not awkward at all.

Gun cost me $200, scope was $70, bases were $10. Pretty awesome deal to me :D Hope this helps!
 
I bought that package last year, very happy with it, but again the stock is the issue.
You should shoulder one first, and then decide if you can live with it.
I just got a Boyd's target rimfire stock for it.
 
If you buy the wood stocked version, the cheek is higher, and you'll have less of an issue. Costs a bit over $200, and you can use the leftover on a scope. I knocked out the rear sight on mine so I could use low scope rings and still clear the scope.

But, like I said, wood on these isn't the prettiest most of the time, and you just might not like wood stocks in general. I don't know why they haven't changed their plastic stocks to have a higher comb.
 
I'm no fan of ''hollow''sounding plastic stocks-but I had a take off stock from a marlin 795 that I filled with low expansion foam-makes a world of diference.I have a very nice Boyds thumbhole-which is great on the bench -but for a walking gun,a plastic stock is lighter and probably more functional-not to mention less money-you can put the money you save into a scope.
 
I'll agree with all the others. However I do think that the way the plastic stocks fit the action with the bedding pillars gives them an advantage regarding torque setting without cracking the stocks. Mine likes it tight, probably too tight for a boyds without doing a pillar bedding job on it.

But I did take issue with the drop in the comb. An easy solution Is to go to an outdoor power equipment supply shop and ask them for an old lawnmower grass deflector. The material they are made out of is very similar to what the stock is made out of and if you have some basic tools and some time it is easy to make a custom cheek riser that puts your eye in exactly the right spot. Or you can buy a cheek riser for about $40-$50, but I like cheap... I like free even better.

Here is the one I made for my FVT
I had to paint it khaki krylon to make me happy... Wasn't diggin the color contrast.

2b98a950.jpg
 
Factory wood stocks ,especially from low end guns aren't neccessarily the best hardwood or fit and finish-but they do lend themselves to doing some reshaping and refinishing.I've taken more than one ''clunky'' wood stock, slimmed it down,especially the fore end, put a nice schnable front piece and then a few pleasant hours sanding,staining,polishing and waxing-even beech comes up beautifully.
 
Check out this thread -http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=724800

Mine doesn't have the accutirgger (I would have liked it, but then again, the modded stock trigger is supposed to be fantastic), and it has the no-sights sporter barrel, but it shoots verrrry nicely. I couldn't use the heavy barrel, as I want to shoot in hunter-class silhouette, and varmint-type (i.e., non-tapered) barrels are not allowed.

I wouldn't trust the pictures in the ad - you'll have to call them to find out for certain which barrel it has. The picture of the one I bought (on Barton's website, listed as a Mk II FXP) showed a heavy-barrel with Accutirgger - an email confirmed it wasn't like the picture...which is taken directly from Savage's website, and may only depict a "similar" model. I'm just saying it's a good idea to confirm it.

Even without the heavy barrel, mine proved today that it's a heck of a shooter. With the 10-minute DIY trigger job, and decent ammo, it'll be a serious tack driver. Even now, brand new & very tight, it's printing sub-5/8" 50-yard groups (during a storm!). This is my first Savage, and the reviews were right. It's great!!
 
Some great info guys, thanks for posting. The stock was one of my concerns as the angle on the synthetic stock looks pretty steep. I like the look of the wooded stock cheek riser, but prefer the heavy barrel... Dilemmas! MikeyStew I think going your route with adding on a cheek riser would be the best route. I looked at the package you post mh434 what a steal. Is the accutrigger make that much of a difference?
 
Island_Trooper said:
Some great info guys, thanks for posting. The stock was one of my concerns as the angle on the synthetic stock looks pretty steep. I like the look of the wooded stock cheek riser, but prefer the heavy barrel... Dilemmas! MikeyStew I think going your route with adding on a cheek riser would be the best route. I looked at the package you post mh434 what a steal. Is the accutrigger make that much of a difference?
Click to expand...

From what I've read (and I've done a LOT of research on this), the Accutirigger is nice right out of the box. The non-accutirgger, once the mod is done, is reported to be even better than the Accutirgger, bringing it up to a true match-grade trigger. There are lots of threads (see Rimfirecentral for this) and Youtube videos on this, and the mods (you can do one or both) cost nothing, and take 15-20 minutes. The accutirgger feature adds roughly $100 to the cost of the rifle. If you want it ready right out of the box, and don't wish to do the mods, then the Accutirgger is for you. If you want to save the $100, and don't mind doing the brief mods (cost for these includes the spring from a cast-off ballpoint pen, and a piece of shim material cut from an old 30-06 or similar brass casing), you can have a great trigger. I chose the cheap route, and I'll report on my trigger mods when I get a chance to do 'em...
 
If you can do the mods yourself, the non-Accutrigger model will work fine. I have the Accutrigger but once it is set, you never have to touch it again, at least I haven't.

So IMO, $100 saved for a DIY trigger job makes a lot of sense, that equal to 2,000 rounds ammo.
 
mh434 said:
From what I've read (and I've done a LOT of research on this), the Accutirigger is nice right out of the box. The non-accutirgger, once the mod is done, is reported to be even better than the Accutirgger, bringing it up to a true match-grade trigger. There are lots of threads (see Rimfirecentral for this) and Youtube videos on this, and the mods (you can do one or both) cost nothing, and take 15-20 minutes. The accutirgger feature adds roughly $100 to the cost of the rifle. If you want it ready right out of the box, and don't wish to do the mods, then the Accutirgger is for you. If you want to save the $100, and don't mind doing the brief mods (cost for these includes the spring from a cast-off ballpoint pen, and a piece of shim material cut from an old 30-06 or similar brass casing), you can have a great trigger. I chose the cheap route, and I'll report on my trigger mods when I get a chance to do 'em...
Click to expand...

The accutrigger adds $100? I don't think retailers are selling non-accutrigger models for a hundred bucks.
 
the accutrigger adds 10-20 bucks to the cost of the rifle. and it is well worth it for a factory 2.5 lb trigger that can be adjusted down further by cutting one spring.
 
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