Looking for 12 guage recipies

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Jessegreenwood

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Hey, so I have, from a friend, lots of double a Winchester wads and Winchester primers, have not gotten powder, but considering red dot( for light rifle load as well)Also have a lot of #2 and #4 lead shot.
Looking for recipes for a general small game load, jackrabbit, any birds that you are allowed to use lead on, that that size would do.
From what I have read, you need to nail down a lot of variables.
Anyone have a good recipe?
Thank you.
 
[B]Jessegreenwood:[/B] Two good online reloading resources: Alliant Reloading. Hodgdon Reloading. Plenty of load data for just about any shotgunning need. Well worth checking out. For small game like rabbit, grouse, etc., you may also consider picking up some smaller sizes of shot. From #6 through #8

Shotgun shell reloading is actually fairly uncomplicated. Simply follow the recipes in the load data and you will be fine.
 
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I actualy don’t know much about hunting with a shotgun, I have just had an easier time gathering reloading equipment than I have had picking what to do with it, so I am looking for what to do with it.
Anyway, I am thinking 1 1/8 loads in 2 3/4 shells, would be a basic multi poupose shell.
I get how powder and primer can greatly affect load/pressure, but how much does the wad? I have double a Winchester wads, and a lot of them, so that is what I want to use.
Up for picking is powder, and shells, but that will come when I find someone with some once fired shells. Does anyone know which shells have a 8 fold crimp(that is what the press has on it.
The reason I want to get red dot, is it appears highly recommended for reduced rifle loads, even ‘cat sneese’( 900 FPS quiet) loads, which is something I am interested in.
I know that part is jumping into the deep end of reloading, but the advanced possibilities is one of the big motivations to reload for me. Really Broaden the hobby.
 
First, get a good shotgun reloading manual such as Lyman's and read it thoroughly. Then get another one for diversity. You must use the exact tested loads with the exact same components because the difference in pressure between safe loads and overloads is very small, minor changes in the load structure can have enough effect to boost pressures beyond safe limits. Every change in component will have an effect on pressure, up or down. Remember, shotgun barrels are thin and many shotgun actions, while designed to contain rated pressures are marginal with excessive loads.
You're off to a good start, WAA 12 is designed for 1 1/8 oz 12 gauge target loads, there are many many published loads using this wad with different hulls, primers, powders and Red Dot loads will be very prolific. All target load hulls and many field load hulls have 8 point crimps, 6 point is normally only found on cheap promotional ammo and heavy field loads these days, hulls shouldn't be a problem. Look for Winchester AA ( consult your new reloading manual regarding the newer HS variation), Remington Nitro 27 and STS for your best loads with those wads, Remington Gun Club and many Winchester field cases are the same construction and even Federal will work decently, there will be loads for these in your book. Many imported hulls such as Fiocchi and Cheddite will be represented in the book but are hard to identify positively because they are not branded with those names.
Use the exact published recipe, don't substitute and component or brand. Play safe and have fun, hitting birds or targets with ammunition that you have made yourself can be addictive like catching fish on flies you've tied youself.
 
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Jessegreenwood: 1 1/8-oz loads are very easy to develop. Depending on your powder choice(Red Dot)...go to the Alliant Powder Reloading Data site, for a full list of options.

Do you know which AA wads you have? They do come in quite a variety of shot capacities. That will be the first step in determining whether they are suitable for your needs. And yes....wads can and do make quite a difference in shot shell operating pressures. That's why it's always wise to stick to the published load data. Unlike pistol or rifle ammunition, shot shells don't tolerate a lot of experimentation with components.

Red Dot can be an excellent performer in some rifle calibers.... within limits. Which cartridge is your rifle chambered for?

As for sourcing once-fired hulls, that is easy. If you belong to a gun club, or know someone who does, just collect the empty hulls left behind by trap shooters. Its a very easy way to acquire as many hulls as you need, at no cost.

There are any number of 2 3/4" shot shells featuring an 8-fold crimp. You can pretty much take your pick. Including: Remington STS or Game Club, Winchester AAHS, Cheddite(Challenger), Federal, and so on.

I will echo Ashcroft's advice: One of the best first steps you should take, is to purchase a shot shell loading manual. The Lyman manual for example, being excellent. The book contains invaluable information on loading equipment and procedure, component selection and load data, to produce first-rate shot shells, in no time.
 
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So, just checked. They are waa12f114, which my research says is for 1 1/4 oz loads, do I have to change my powder selection and go with 1 1/4? Is that even suitable for 2 3/4”
For rifle, I don’t have one, am currently shopping, basically open to any non-magnum 30 cal, but if I had a preferable it would be 30-06. I have a lee turret press, but not caliber specific dies untill I pick what I’ll be reloading.
Was looking at 303 for a while but large enough bullets are almost impossible to find.
I plan on getting molds eventually, would like to run 3 weights at near the same speed, the lighter bullets being reduced loads.
For shot shells I have Amec 600jr(I think) with an adjustable charge bar, currently set for 2 3/4, 8 star crimp.
And supplies, 2k Winchester primers, 100lb lead shot, 2.5k wads, no shells or powder.
Oh, and I forgot to mention, I do have “the abcs of reloading” which does cover shotshel reloading, even has the press I have on the front. Not shotshell specific, but I expect a good place to start.
 
Shotshell reloading is a little more complicated than brass as there are more things to measure, stack and properly fit for a good crimp. Everything changes based on the specific stuff you are loading- hull, wad, load and powder. The wads you have are for tapered hulls- win AA would be my recommendation. I'd recommend getting a book and following the recipe for the components you are using without substitutes.
 
Jessegreenwood: No....your powder selection(Red Dot) will work just fine. All you need do to load the lighter 1 1/8 oz loads, is go to either a WAA12 wad, or the Claybuster equivalent: CB1118-12. Good choice, for either Remington, or Winchester hulls. For Federal or Cheddite(Challenger) hulls: Federal 12S3, works well for 1 1/8 oz payloads. Claybuster equivalent: CB2118-12.

And yes....the WAA12F114 wad is very suitable for use in 2 3/4" shotshell loads. Just not the best choice, for 1 1/8 oz.

As a matter of interest, you don't have to limit yourself to Red Dot. There are any number of powders which will work just as well. Hodgdon Clays for example, is an excellent powder for light loads.

Should you wish to load 1 1/4 oz loads...as well as 1 1/8 oz, Alliant Unique, or its near-twin Hodgdon Universal, would be good powders to select, too. Both very versatile, for a variety of reloading tasks.

Unique is also a longtime favourite for reduced-velocity, lead bullet loads in many rifle cartridges. Including: .30-06, etc. Worth checking out.

The choices are pretty broad. So don't think you have to limit yourself. As you become more knowledgeable about shotshell reloading, a lot of this will become much clearer. For now, scrounge up as many hulls as you can and simply get a handle on the process.

Also: Be sure to ask plenty of questions. That is how you learn. There are some very knowledgeable folks on this forum, who can help.

By the way, your Mec 600 is an excellent shotshell reloading press. Versatile and easily adjustable. Replacement parts are also readily available, if needed.
Including: 6-point crimp starters.

A good source for Mec parts: Hummason. Based near Ancaster, Ontario. But will ship.

Al

ps: For many, many years before the introduction of steel shot for waterfowl hunting, THE standard 2 3/4" shotshell load, was 1 1/4 oz of #4 lead shot, at 1330 fps. Still a good choice, under many hunting conditions.
 
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Thank you, I have been seeing unique pop up on many of the 1 1/4 loads, that may be the better choice.
My plan is to fine the best load I can make with the components I have, I am not set on 1 1/8, if 1 1/4 is the best with the 2500 wads I have on hand( not sure where my friend got them all, was a big garbage bag, some still bagged in 250, but the package has load data with a powder no longer made)
Anyway, hulls will likly be a variable decided by fate, and then powder will be the one chosen for a recipe that works well with all the other parts
Might be an odd way to chose a load, but the dude abides.
Thank you all for all the advice.
 
As has been said, the wads are suitable for tapered wall hulls - Winchester AA, or Remington STS or Gun Club.
In AA Highstrength hulls, those 1 1/4 ounce wads will make satisfactory 1 1/8 ounce loads with the right powder.
The modern AA HS hulls have slightly less capacity than the AA Compression Formed hulls that preceded them.
 
Jessegreenwood: If I can offer one bit of advice on a versatile powder choice, it would be either Unique, or Universal. Whichever one you can find the easiest. They are pretty much identical in burn rate and performance. I use them interchangeably. Either powder will work equally well, for 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 oz loads. Plus ...quite a few other load recipes. From personal experience, I`ve likely used more of these two powders than any other, for shotshell reloads. Ultimately the choice is yours. But you can`t go wrong, with these powders.

You can certainly use the F114 / 1 1/4 oz wads for 1 1/8 oz loads though, as saskbooknut suggests. By far the easiest way to accommodate the lighter, 1 1/8 oz shot payload, is to insert a wad(cork, felt, cardboard, etc.) into the shot cup, then load the shot charge on top of it. This will help raise the payload enough to allow for a good final crimp.

Depending on the shot size, it may require a 1/8", or 1/4" wad, or combination. Since you have a pile of these wads already....it is possible to use them. Will just take a bit of experimentation to find the right combination. You will know right away....if your shot column is too low. The crimp will collapse down into the case. A good crimp should be flat and tight.

By the way, a 20 gauge(5/8"), is the most popular wad for under the shot. These can either be purchased, or make them yourself. With a 5/8/.625" hollow punch. You can purchase a punch on Amazon.

Hope this helps

Al

In the meantime, should you wish to start with 1 1/8 oz loads, I'd simply go with a recommended wad, for that payload. But...there`s no reason why you can`t shoot 1 1/4 loads. You`ve got the wads, anyway. Much simpler, that way. I suspect your press is already set up for that shot charge.
 
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Alex McKr said:
Shotgun shell reloading is actually fairly uncomplicated. Simply follow the recipes in the load data and you will be fine.
Click to expand...
No matter what component combination you pick this is the best advice you can get. Unlike metallic cartridge reloading where there is some margin of safety in fiddling around with bullet weights, powder weights, primer type, etc., shotgun reloading is far less forgiving. Something as simple as changing the type of primer or brand of hull can cause an unsafe pressure spike. Always follow the reloading recipe EXACTLY. Not trying to scare you but shotguns are far less tolerant of pressure changes than rifles. A lot of research goes into publishing data for safe shotgun loads. USE IT.
 
Lyman 5th Edition Shotshell Manual - get it. Lead, Slugs, buckshot, Steel and Bismith. For me the best info was the reclassification hulls by manufacturing process which has simplified my shell case sorting.
 
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