Looking for a cordless drill, with chuck that doesn't wobble!

I use a WFT trimmer that indexes off the case shoulder if I neck turn. That way the neck turning cutter stops at the same point at the neck shoulder junction.

If you don't want the drill to wobble then put the hand crank back on your trimmer. Or make something to hold the drill and keep it from wobbling.

P.S. Try not drinking any coffee before holding the drill in your hand and it might not shake. ;)

 
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I've heavily used cordless tools from Makita, Ridgid and Dewalt.

I can tell you that it doesn't matter what brand you buy. None of them have been perfect. No matter how good the tool is, or the company that makes them, they will occasionally put out the odd one that shouldn't have passed the QC test.

But out of the three brands I use the Dewalt 20v stuff has been the most consistent in QC and longevity. I use the stuff a lot and I use it hard.

As I need new tools or just more of what I already have I have settled on just getting Dewalt. I will keep the Makita and Ridgid stuff around as long as it is working but won't be replacing with the same once it is done.

The only Milwaukee tools I have are the 3/8" and 1/2" impact wrench. Haven't had them long yet to make an honest opinion but I like them so far. Only reason I bought Milwaukee cordless impact wrenches is because the torque specs blow all the other brands away. I found my Dewalt 20v impact wrenches didn't have the balls I needed for certain applications. From what I've used the Milwaukee so far they definitely have more balls.

But you were asking about drills and chucks and all that so I can tell you that the Dewalt drill chucks run without wobble. But make sure to get the drills with the all metal chuck. Not the cheaper drill. You get what you pay for.

Oh, and stay away from the Dewalt Atomic line. They are supposed to be more compact and lighter and all that marketing garbage. But you don't get smaller and lighter without cutting corners with smaller motors etc... They are the only Dewalt tools I have not been happy with. They are like the regular tools only they are trying to do the same job but they are doing it handicapped. Smoked the motors in two impact drivers and one of the little one handed reciprocating saws. Just junk. Stay away.

EDIT to add: The Dewalt model DCD991 would be my reccomendation for an excellent drill. Or the DCD996 if you ever think you will need the hammer function.

Stay away from the DCD791 as it is the compact model. It's just not as heavy duty.
 
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Biged, that’s a nice setup for sure.
Not sure I’d have the patience to build it though!
In my case, it would still wobble because of my drill...

Jiffx
It’s always the same task that kills our drills.
The dreaded 4.5’’ hole saw through 2x6 walls.
We do have corded angle drills, but my plumbers are under orders that if we have less that 4 supersized holes to do in a house, that they do it with the cordless, burning the drill is secondary.
Vs walking out to the truck, fueling generator, unwinding the 100’ cord, get the angle drill out, and put it all back again.
We save 1 hour per week this way, which pays for a drill under 2-3 months.
All drills used to die under 6-8 months doing this, including the dewalt 20V, the only to have survived this regime is the 18V milwaukee fuel, they all got 2 years and not quitting!

Ask me why Hilti lease fleet stopped giving us good service lol
 
DANS40X said:
OP,
75 RPM is sufficient to trim/turn necks.
It's brass
Slow it down & let the tooling do it's job.
WFO is not the answer.
Any wobble will NOT make any difference
the operator is the weak link in the equation....meaning you set the standard & repeatability.
Click to expand...

I get what you are saying.
Yes I have a tendency to try to race it as shooting regularly does equal lot’s of work in the reload room.
Always on the lookout to speed things up without sacrificing quality.
A good example was the auto throw and auto trickler for my fx120, sped things up considerably without giving anything up.

As a side note, the wobbly drill hasn’t done anything measurable, just gets on my nerves.
My necks are 12 thous thick on one side and 11 3/4 thous thick on the other.
I doubt a 1/4 thou would change anything in anyone’s life.

bigedp51 said:
Just for grins and giggles put a "round" drill bit in your drill and see if it wobbles. Your hex key may not be centering in the jaws.
Click to expand...

I have tried.
Tried with a set of premium allens, premium drill bits... they all do the same.
Straight as an arrow on my 18V, wobbly on any 12V tried so far, and my 12V is a metal chuck premium model.
 
Your last post answered my question, I think, with a bit in the chucks, any wobble in the bearing or is the run out in the jaws?
I have switched to mainly milw. after having a mix of stuff with different batteries. Have the same one you show.
Don't use the 18 v that much , as the 12 volt does most of what I do now.
My first 18 volt has to be 16-18 yrs old and still have the original battery . I think if you want 0 run out , I would built a support shaft with a bearing , drill in a holder, could be solid and run the trimmer >< , or the drill.
 
Been using a1/2 in chuck Makita compact for 12 years in aviation with a lot of sheet aluminum and steel drilling still tight two batteries and charger came with it one batt would not hold charge after 10 years only prob had to buy two new ones at 145$ :)
 
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I like mine. Just need to use Hornady shell holders.

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How is a little wobble in the drill chuck going to effect alot when the shaft has that large of support unless the shaft is sloppy in the trimmer as well.
 
MartyK2500 said:
As the title says, I am looking for a drill without any runout in the chuck so to speak.
Right now in my forster trimming stations, it drives me nuts to see the small wobble going on.
When I insert a long allen key into them you definitely can see that the chuck isn't concentric.

Here are brands I have tried so far :
18V Milwaukee fuel, my work drill, perfect 100% concentricity, way too heavy for this job.
12V Ridgid, wobbles...
12V Ryobi, wobbles...
12V Milwaukee, wobbles...
Click to expand...

I have three Ridgid 18 volt drills, never dropped, All as straight as arrows. The brushless is superb.
 
OkayShooter said:
If you are worried about runout, why not get like a flex coupler? That would compensate for the runout?
Click to expand...

That actually may be an idea.
For the trimming I put the manual handle back on, my 6.5x47L barely grows brass 1 thou per firing, still pass it on the trimmer so it chamfers/deburrs on my 3 in 1.

Right now I’m looking into Giraud trimmers, seems like they have the quick yet precise solution I am looking for!
 
I have my grandfather's ancient 7.2V Makita... almost as gutless as a lieberal (but more useful): no runout and I can't even find side to side play in the bearings. Made in Japan, has a proper keyed chuck. Chinesium might be part of the problem OP is having. I have a couple Makita 120V drills I've never noticed runout in either. While they are mostly outsourced now, Bosch and Makita tend to retain high standards. Hilti is high end. As with most things, there is the cost/quality line graph...
 
Buy the drill and if it has run out, return it. I recently got a Milwaukee fuel with run out and just went back to the store and got it replaced. Stuff happens.
 
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