Looking for a pin holding jig for action parts working

[BCRider]

I'm wondering if there's anything out there for holding pins in position that match the relationship of the pins in various actions.

The idea is to simulate the pin positions in the frame but outside where I can see any issues and gauge things and monitor progress.

I know of the trick of putting the pins through on the outside of the frame but this often results in stuff being in the way such as on a Colt style single action revolver or the pins are sloppy in the holes so the parts simply do not fit the same as they do in the gun when the pins are supported on both sides.

So I'm looking at making something that will allow me to measure and position pins of suitable size accurately centered as they would be in the trigger group so I can work on the parts and gauge my progress more accurately.

Or do most of you that do such things simply make up a custom block for each style of gun you work with for when you need this sort of tool?

 

[trevj]

I think you are stuck making blocks.

Got a CNC mill? This could be a product idea for you, either singly, or several different guns per block. At least once you have the coordinates, making another would be easy.

Pretty sure Brownell's sells blocs for common trigger work, like AR's and 1911's.

One thing that springs to mind is the engravers pin vise that uses pins in holes in the faces of the jaws, to hold the work. With some custom pins, it could be used as an adjustable spacing block, perhaps.

Cheers
Trev

 

[BCRider]

I've seen pictures for some such setups for the more commonly popular rifles. And there's a set of extended frame pins that is designed to do this for 1911's so you're working with the parts at the exact spacing of the holes in THAT frame.

But what I'm after is something a little more generic that I can set for each gun.

For example the project that started this is some tuning I want to do to the hammer hooks on my Numerich version of a Hopkins and Allen under hammer muzzle loader. Last I checked this is not a main stream sort of firearm so somewhat understandably there's a lack of specialty action blocks available for this gun....

When I come up with something I'll post it. Since it'll have different size pins as a primary part of the setup I'm thinking more like holes with a broached "V" along one face and a set screw or two to push the pin into the apex of the "V" for holding the pins.

 

[fingers284]

There is a jig that Brownells sells that does what you want for sear/hammer /trigger locationing but damn if I can remember the manufacturers name. The machine has a # of pin holes that allow the user to replicate a large # of different handgun and lever gun scenario's. A buddy of mine has a set ( the complete set is a bit pricy...in the $350 range if I remember right) and I have borrowed it a couple of times. it is a slick unit to do fine tuning trigger work, the stone angle adjusts to whatever you desire ( you need good eyes to make good use of the machine).

 

[BCRider]

They may well have such a jig. And it might even work for my old Colt action revolvers. But I'm pretty sure it would not work with my present H&A underhammer or my side lock flintlock rifles that I also want to tinker with in the present situation.

Also I don't do this as a living so paying $350 or more for a gizmo of that sort isn't going to happen.

I've come up with an idea for a more or less general pin holding jig. The "must meet" requirement being to hold up to the three pins in proper layout to allow me to set up the whole action for my SAA and earlier cap and ball Colt and Remington style revolvers. It's not going to be all that complex to make but it will require the sort of machines that a proper full service gunsmith has. Pictures when it happens early next week.

 

[buckbrush]

There is a jig that Brownells sells that does what you want for sear/hammer /trigger locationing but damn if I can remember the manufacturers name. The machine has a # of pin holes that allow the user to replicate a large # of different handgun and lever gun scenario's. A buddy of mine has a set ( the complete set is a bit pricy...in the $350 range if I remember right) and I have borrowed it a couple of times. it is a slick unit to do fine tuning trigger work, the stone angle adjusts to whatever you desire ( you need good eyes to make good use of the machine).

I think you may mean Ron Powers jigs.

 

[BCRider]

I think he might as well. But when I checked the Ron Powers website an action pinning jig didn't leap out at me even after looking down the rather long and impressive list.

The stoning jig is a real jewel though. I've got a "quickie" I made some years back which was SUPPOSED to be temporary. It looks like used baby food when I look at the RP gem of a jig.....

 

[relliott]

I have one of the Ron Power jigs. It is actually pretty cool. Works really nice with the ceramic stones, also from Brownell.

 

[BCRider]

Teaser time

I noodled around in my CAD program last night for a while and came up with a bunch of really hard and fussy to machine methods for making a shallow angle "V" and microscopic finger clamps to hold the pins.

Then I had a "EUREKA" moment and realized that if I make up a 90° "V" single point broaching cutter I can drill a simple round hole then extend it on one side to a "V". A small set screw with a rounded and polished nose pushes the pin into the apex of the "V" and VOILIN! or VOILA! or whatever it is that they say.....

Making and using a little V cutter from some drill rod isn't a big deal for me. I've already done this when I made up a similar 120° broaching cutter for another job. I found that shaving off up to .005 at a time early on and around .002 for the wider cuts didn't result in all that much of a cutting load.

If I set the nose clearance angle just right the cutter will wedge into the work as much as the work tries to push it back away from the cut. I'll set up and use my little test guage on the back spine on a trial cut or two to adjust the front rake so these two loads cancel and the result should be a nice "V" that is truly vertical to within a very small angle.