Looking for advice for .223 amd 9mm

mtlsportshooter

New member
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Location
Montreal, Quebec
So. I have a SDB 9mm and it's awesome. I bought it because I didn't envision getting a rifle. Fat chance...... So I just picked up a S&W MP15 Sport II, and i would like some opinions on best options to be able to reload both, and maybe some direction or guides for .223, as I know 9mm inside out, but have no experience with rifle cartridges.

Should I sell the SDB and get an RL550B with 2 full conversion kits to be able to change quickly? Seems like the most logical move, as I don't want to have to buy another press and find more room for it. Some have said though that the Lee Turret press is a decent choice for rifle rounds as it's a slower process than straight wall.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
I have a square deal in 9mm as well, also thinking i won't ever need more. I recently bought a 550b for rifle. I like working with the 550 more as there is more room. If you have the cash you could just get a quick change inline fabrication mount and then switch out presses as needed. I keep the square deal on the bench at all times and switch the 550 with the rock chucker when needed.

I have no experience with the lee but i am sure it would get the job done. Probably not as fast as the 550 though.
 
I'm a cheap bastard who can't afford any Dillon products other than their ammo boxes -- which are beautiful boxes, by the way -- and I have to say that I agree with 4n2t0: get another press.

If it were me, and it won't be me because I am, as mentioned above, a cheap bastard, I'd get either a 550 or a 650. I think I would lean to the 650 for the auto indexing and the additional feature support.

I think I would sell the SDB and put that towards the new press. If you have an emotional attachment to the SDB -- and who does not grow fond of precision tools? -- keep it and dedicate it to 9mm. Use the new press with change kits for 223 and all the other calibres you'll collect over time.

A Lee turret press will do 223 for you. But after using the SDB you may feel that the Lee is a utilitarian step down. And that may bug you to the point where it sours you on the equipment or, even worse, the calibre you try to load on that equipment.

Other than that, no special tricks to loading 223. The only sort of weird thing that I find is that I always have to trim my cases after resizing. I'm shooting 223 in an H&R HandiRifle, a Savage 25, a Weatherby Vanguard, and a Tikka-something-or-other and find that brass from all of them requires trimming after resizing.

I'm going to try a Lee Classic Turret for 223 -- again, recall the cheap bastard thing noted above -- and I am not sure yet how to integrate trimming with a turret press. Resizing on the turret, taking the case out, trimming it, returning it to the press, and carrying on with the other operations seems awkward. Sizing and trimming in bulk seems to be the way to go, which means removing the sizing operation from the turret, thus opening up one of the turret holes for something like, say, a powder charge verification die. Not sure how I'm going to do it yet.

Good luck with your decision. Let us know have you decide to go.
 
So. Let's get one thing clear. I'm probably as cheap as you, maybe cheaper, thus me wanting to load my own rounds. I load my 9mm at around .16c a round, which is a hell of a lot less than what you'd pay for said round. I do however like the fact that I am able to load them super light, around 3.2gn of Titegroup on 147gn RNFP.

I think what scares me is exactly what you pointed out. Having to trim after resizing and depriming. I also heard of instances where people will actually deprime first, then clean brass in tumbler, then go resize, trim, etc. Seems like a drawn out process. If i buy another press, it will most definitely be the Lee, as I cannot afford $1000+ press after the SDB. I even have some Lee dies for 9mm as I had purchased them thinking I was going with the classic turret press for my 9mm rounds, but ended up finding a great deal on the SDB.
 
A turret is slower than a progressive, doesn't matter which brand or which model. If you go from a progressive to a turret, you'll feel how it is more time consuming.

One thing you can do on the turret that you can't really do on the progressive though is use a Lee trimmer (the one with dies) in one of the slots. So you can setup (let's suppose brass is tumbled and clean):
1-Resize/deprime;
2-trim/prime (I think this is possible)
3-Powder (use powder drum);
4-Bullet seat and crimp.

I'm not 100% positive you can trim and prime at the same station (I don't own a turret press and I don't use Lee dies for trimming anyway), if you can't then it gets kinda dummy. What I would do in that case is deprime (using universal depriming die), then tumble, then prime (using a hand primer), then get on the press:
1-resize with the depriming pin removed;
2-trim
3-Powder (use powder drum);
4-Bullet seat and crimp.

This will barely be any faster than using a single stage and good automatic case prep tools.

I wouldn't get a 550B honestly. No automatic indexing on a progressive is dummy imho. Either get the 650 or go for Lee or hornady, which will cost you less.
 
So. Let's get one thing clear. I'm probably as cheap as you, maybe cheaper, thus me wanting to load my own rounds. I load my 9mm at around .16c a round, which is a hell of a lot less than what you'd pay for said round. I do however like the fact that I am able to load them super light, around 3.2gn of Titegroup on 147gn RNFP.

I think what scares me is exactly what you pointed out. Having to trim after resizing and depriming. I also heard of instances where people will actually deprime first, then clean brass in tumbler, then go resize, trim, etc. Seems like a drawn out process. If i buy another press, it will most definitely be the Lee, as I cannot afford $1000+ press after the SDB. I even have some Lee dies for 9mm as I had purchased them thinking I was going with the classic turret press for my 9mm rounds, but ended up finding a great deal on the SDB.

A man with a Dillon cannot be as cheap as me!

I Googled around on "trim cases before or after sizing" and found lots of discussions on the web.

The consensus seems to be that you trim after sizing. This makes sense to me based on my own experience: if I take a once fired round and run it through my Lee case trimmer, the cutter often does not touch the case. But after I resize the case, the cutter will indeed take off a tiny amount of brass. So I think I have to trim after resizing.

I did try neck sizing or collet dies and found that I did not have to trim the cases. But I also found that with four rifles in 223 and with kids shooting those at least half the time, I found it a hassle to keep track of which brass goes with which rifle, which is necessary when using neck sizing dies. So I just stopped keeping track and now I resize and trim everything.

I'm not too worried about case life longevity. I understand that my cases will wear out faster doing things this way, but I have not had any problems so far.

Now, those Google searches also turned up something interesting. I came across several comments where guys say they have never trimmed straight-walled pistol brass. I thought that was interesting. I'm not sure how that works but several commentators were saying that they have never had to do it. That might deserve to be looked into a little more.

About depriming and tumbling first: I've done it that way in the past. I used to deprime then ultrasonic clean then dry in an oven then tumble then polish by hand with Brasso and a jeweller's virgin chamois silverware cloth, all while muttering "My precious! My precious!"

I'm over all that now.

I now tumble with spent primers in the cases and that gives me pretty clean brass for the most part. I like to deprime in bulk with a Lee Universal Deprimer and brush out the primer pocket. That leaves the cases ready to rip for the other operations, which I usually do in another session or sessions.

I have a Lee Classic Turret on the way to me. I am hoping it gets here this week but it will probably be next week. Will post some thoughts on that when it gets here.
 
The 550 will work fine for rifle/pistol reloading if you are happy with the production rate you are getting loading 9mm on your SDB. If you want more capacity, the 650 with a case feeder is the way to go.

Manual indexing on the 550 does not slow things down significantly unless you are using a case feeder. I would not recommend getting the 550 with case feeder, as it only works with pistol cases.
 
You could also ask yourself how much 9 you will shoot. For me, I will always own a couple 9s so having the square deal just sitting ready to go makes sense for me. Multiple blue presses on the bench is always appealing to the eye as well....
 
223 is a lot more work than 9mm. To do in bulk takes twice as much time to prep the cases.
I have a 650 for 9mm and 223 and scratch my head as to why i'm reloading 223 sometimes, mostly due to the time (i'm completely OCD when it comes to reloading).
It also depends on your volume. If you're only shooting 1000/year, then I would suggest just buying the ammo and skip reloading. If you're into 3gun and doing 1000+/month, then it's time to upgrade. Look at the calculators and figure out your 'break even' point in buying a new press for 223.
Take into consideration if you buy brass cased 223 to shoot, you can recoup costs by selling your brass to local reloaders.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I think at this point I might just wait it out and see how much ammo I actually do go through in the first few months. I honestly don't think I will shoot as much as I do with my 9, but we'll see.

I won't ever need to up my production quantity, so a 550 without case feeder is the way I would go I think, and depending on if I have the funds I will decide if I sell the SDB or not.
 
From what I understand people use 650 with 2 sets of tool heads. Workflow consists of:
1. Clean brass
2. Install tool head #1, which contains decap die, size die, dillon trimmer (i.e. RT1500), primer pocket swaging (optional if you don't have brass with crimped primer). Run the brass through and you get preped brass at the end.
3. (Optional) Wash brass again (to take out the brass shaving from trimmer.
4. Install tool head #2, which contains prime, powder, powder check, bullet seat, crimp. Run the brass through and you get loaded cartridge at the end.

This setup cost considerably more than loading pistol on progressive given the cost of extra tool head and RT1500. But you get a loaded round every 2 presses of the lever.

Without the tool head #1 setup, you would need to size, trim, and swage your brass separately, which is probably 70~80% of the effort in loading 223.

I ended up loading 223 on my single stage because I don't want to spend that kind of money on trimmer/swager. Brass prepping drives me crazy, but doing rest on single stage is not that bad and I can measure every powder drop through electric powder dispenser.

Another alternative is to look for people already have the setup and pay them to prep your brass. My local shooting group has someone does that for $50/1000 brass. I've been really tempted to try it out but he has a lot of restriction on the brass supplied (i.e. no dented mouth, no certain brand of brass etc).
 
dieg, having used a RT1500, I can tell you that the trim job it does it not suitable for inserting a bullet into. It puts a big sharp flange on the mouth, which has to be removed by regular spinning chamfer/reamer cutters, or alternatively aggressively stainless steel wet pin tumbled.

The second wash, IMO, is necessary because it also removes the case lube.
 
Back
Top Bottom