Looking for an M14 rear sight...
- Thread starter Secondgunman
- Start date
I just did the same search as you. In the end I decided to go with a Springfield NM front sight from Brownells and a USGI M1 Garand rear sight assembly from Northridge International Inc.
I also wanted to stay within Canada. However I couldn't find anyone who had what I was looking for, so I went state side. Even Marstar was out of stock. The NM front sight was $40 plus S&H. The USGI rear sight was $99 plus S&H.
Hope this helps a little.
I also wanted to stay within Canada. However I couldn't find anyone who had what I was looking for, so I went state side. Even Marstar was out of stock. The NM front sight was $40 plus S&H. The USGI rear sight was $99 plus S&H.
Hope this helps a little.
Rusty Joots
CGN Regular
- Location
- Spruce Grove, Ab
I will be going the same route,
Hey Celtic no worrys bro im sure you will get it soon, I just Got my first order in from tree line tonight and im super happy
Hey Celtic no worrys bro im sure you will get it soon, I just Got my first order in from tree line tonight and im super happy
I called both brownells and northridge. Just one phone call was all it took. Gave them my order, info, and payment over the phone. You are ordering M1A/M1 Garand parts. They are not restricted for export. So as long as you are under the export $ limit, you are good to go.
ordered a NOS Italian M1 Garand rear sight from Italy, marked for meters. Cost about 90.00 delivered, and took about a month (likely due to xmas..). Came still packed in cosmo with "PB" marking on windage knob... Guy says he has more of these, PM me for contact details...
TacticalTeacher
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Georgian Bay, ON
Just a heads up about them NOS sights on their install process. They are so new so clean all the grease off them with Simple Green or Acetone or Varsol or whatever won't cause yer #### to fall off.
Then when install the knobs, a dab of grease on the threads of the elevation knob screw never hurts. This final step is the toughest because they are super crisp with the machining and correct heat treating.
So because they are so new it might take an extra bit of pushing and persuading and force and swearing and elbow grease during the alignment stage and finally on the engagement stage.
Just expect that. Over the last couple of years at my clinics i seem at attract a few of these to do and I end up doing the entire assembly. Some guests are worried when I break out in a sweat, others only worry when I start throwing tools across the floor! Ha ha ha ha
No worries, mate. It's all good.
Cheers, Barney
Then when install the knobs, a dab of grease on the threads of the elevation knob screw never hurts. This final step is the toughest because they are super crisp with the machining and correct heat treating.
So because they are so new it might take an extra bit of pushing and persuading and force and swearing and elbow grease during the alignment stage and finally on the engagement stage.
Just expect that. Over the last couple of years at my clinics i seem at attract a few of these to do and I end up doing the entire assembly. Some guests are worried when I break out in a sweat, others only worry when I start throwing tools across the floor! Ha ha ha ha
No worries, mate. It's all good.
Cheers, Barney
Hi. Listen to Reflex_84. The important wording is "M1 Rifle/M1A parts". Never mentioning the M-14/M305 at all. M-14 parts are restricted for export by the U.S. government. M1 Rifle/M1A parts are not. No permits to worry about. The U.S. export value limit is currently $500US.
Sounds like the NOS parts are a bit over-size and need fitting. Said fitting is done with a stone, sandpaper or fine file. Not a rotary tool.
Barney, I can swear in a couple languages if you need some words. snicker.
Sounds like the NOS parts are a bit over-size and need fitting. Said fitting is done with a stone, sandpaper or fine file. Not a rotary tool.
Barney, I can swear in a couple languages if you need some words. snicker.
I think its a good idea to apply some grease to various rear sight component wear points prior to assembly. I use GI Garand/M14 grease on the following;
- the inside rib of the spring/cover (note how used ones are well worn here)
- on the front "foot" of the base (again note wear on both the base and the corresponding flat of the receiver)
- on the "gears" of the pinion where it engages the aperture
- on the inside face of both the elevation pinion and the windage knob where they bear against the receiver (the single "tit" of the new style elevation pinion is prone to high wear as it travels against the receiver serrations)
- on the inside "rails" of the base where the aperture travels up and down
- on the "foot" of the aperture where it bears against the receiver
- on the shaft of the pinion where it rotates inside the base
Occasionally you will find a receiver where the serrations that engage the "tit" of the elevation pinion are worn to the point that the pinion may jump or skip on the receiver after everything is tightened up. If the receiver is otherwise serviceable it is a good idea to try one of the old style lockbar elevation pinion/windage knob sets as these have multiple engagement surfaces for the receiver serrations. I like to trial fit various cover/base/aperture combinations to find one that gives a bit of springback without the pinion and windage knobs installed. To test for tension just push the base forward with the cover and aperture installed and look for a bit of springback. The angle of the covers can be tweaked a bit to increase tension. If you have a few to choose from its also a good idea to trial fit bases and apertures top find a combination with the tightest fit and least amount of slop.
As Barney points out, all components need to be free of preservative before re-lubing and installation. Its also a good idea to give the receiver serrations a good scrubbing with a brush and solvent to clean out any accumulated crud. If you are re-parking a receiver avoid much sandblasting of the serrations as this will tend to round off the sharp edges.
- the inside rib of the spring/cover (note how used ones are well worn here)
- on the front "foot" of the base (again note wear on both the base and the corresponding flat of the receiver)
- on the "gears" of the pinion where it engages the aperture
- on the inside face of both the elevation pinion and the windage knob where they bear against the receiver (the single "tit" of the new style elevation pinion is prone to high wear as it travels against the receiver serrations)
- on the inside "rails" of the base where the aperture travels up and down
- on the "foot" of the aperture where it bears against the receiver
- on the shaft of the pinion where it rotates inside the base
Occasionally you will find a receiver where the serrations that engage the "tit" of the elevation pinion are worn to the point that the pinion may jump or skip on the receiver after everything is tightened up. If the receiver is otherwise serviceable it is a good idea to try one of the old style lockbar elevation pinion/windage knob sets as these have multiple engagement surfaces for the receiver serrations. I like to trial fit various cover/base/aperture combinations to find one that gives a bit of springback without the pinion and windage knobs installed. To test for tension just push the base forward with the cover and aperture installed and look for a bit of springback. The angle of the covers can be tweaked a bit to increase tension. If you have a few to choose from its also a good idea to trial fit bases and apertures top find a combination with the tightest fit and least amount of slop.
As Barney points out, all components need to be free of preservative before re-lubing and installation. Its also a good idea to give the receiver serrations a good scrubbing with a brush and solvent to clean out any accumulated crud. If you are re-parking a receiver avoid much sandblasting of the serrations as this will tend to round off the sharp edges.
Just an update OP in case you're still looking. Just got my rear sight (and front as well) from Treeline, took about 2.5 weeks. Partly my fault though ordering it right before Christmas. Imagine it would have gotten here faster any other time of the year. Outside of the package (for customs) is labelled with the value and (in my case anyway) "rear aperture" and "front post" so nothing what so ever about it being for a gun never mind M14/M1 etc.
