Looking for high quality receiver level to install scope

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MartyK2500

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Currently building myself a rock solid heavy vise with level adjustments.
Was planning to use my wheeler magnetic receiver level, level gun in vise, and aim a string with heavy plumb bob 50+ yards away from rifle to precisely level scope reticule.

I just got my wheeler level level level kit, and realise its the weak link in my setup.
Where can i get a real good short level?
Is the flat spot behind receiver where safety is (savage 10 bolt removed) a good spot to level on?


Edit : reading american forums, the flat spot behing receiver is the spot to place a level. And the level i am looking for is called a machinist level and is about 80$ for 3-4" long.
Anyone else give theirselves that trouble to get a scope that precise?
 
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The problem is finding a perfectly flat and level spot on the receiver once the scope is in place, and at least in my experience, very few rifles provide such a surface. Before that point, you could level on scope bases. I've pretty much given up on trying to level the rifle with just a couple of levels while mounting a scope and have instead bitten the bullet and picked up a Wheeler Professional Reticle Leveling System. It's pricey, but I'm hoping it's worth it (actually it would be quite easy and inexpensive just to make one of these). With this device, you could level the rifle using scope bases (or even the bottom half of rings) and then attach the level on the barrel to then use as your reference level once you got the scope in the rings. You'd still probably need to use a plumb line to get the reticle lined up properly, but at that point the scope would be perfectly in line with the rifle.

http://www.cabelas.ca/product/30393/wheeler-pro-reticle-leveling-system

Probably not what you're looking for, but thought I'd mention it. Clay Smiley at Prophet River has them for a better price (around $80, I think).
 
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Thanks for the reply, but i have ordered a Starrett bench level.
About 3'' long and 60$

For the savage 10, behind receiver with bolt removed (spot between safety and receiver), you have a flat spot to level on. On american forums lots of precision shooters seem to level there.
Rifle out out stock (as stock raises higher than flat spot), action in a solid rest, plumb line 50+yards further, would be my way to go so far

Saw those wheelers at cabelas, not sure i'm a fan of them. As i need only one level (the small one).
Pay 80$ for 2 levels, or close to 60$ for only one, there will be a quality difference.
 
with the wheeler kit i got, there is a level that fits the bolt raceway to mark the level. alternatively you can get an anti-cant level that attaches to the scope rail and use that.
 
Thats the wheeler kit i got actually
I find the bubble to be to cheap and lacking precision marks

Having a good anti cant level would work out
Machinist level already ordered i will post pics of leveling setup once my vortex viper pst gen ll gets here
 
I don't think you need to go that extreme. I used a normal 1ft level I used when I was plumbing, on my desert tech and tangent theta. No issues out to 600m at all.
 
Holy crap man, there is no need to go so extreme. A bullet doesn't care if your scope is level or not. Everyone holds a rifle differently and what is "level" to one person will be "crooked" to another due to rifle cant. So just use a normal reticle leveler, mount your scope and go shoot! Too many people go down these ridiculous rabbit holes when optics and distance get involved that are totally unnecessary.
MartyK2500 said:
Was planning to use my wheeler magnetic receiver level, level gun in vise, and aim a string with heavy plumb bob 50+ yards away from rifle to precisely level scope reticule.
Click to expand...
 
P0WERWAGON said:
well i guess i'll check back in a few months
Click to expand...

Yeah i know right!
Pre-order done and waiting

My measures arent that drastic, low cost and once setup very effective, or anyways i hope it to be.
Parts list consist on gun vise that i can adjust level built myself, a 60$ precision level and a plumbob
 
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