I have a RB in 12.17 that I would like to have converted to .50-70. The breech block also has a tiny amount of play, I would like to fix that. Can anyone suggest a good smith with experience in rolling blocks? I'm located in BC. 
Looking for rolling block smith
- Thread starter BUSHMAN79
- Start date
google "rolling block parts".There is a couple sites in the
US that have schematics on the rolling block,Its a very simple design.I'm not totally familiar with the it, but plan to build one this winter.Theres only so many places that sort of "play" can come from. maby a worn pin hole, I dont know.With a schematic,or a vid on you tube,you should be able to disasemble the gun.If you dont feel confident after watching the vid,sell me the gun and take up golfing!!Just kidding any reputable smith in your area can tackle the job,but save the money and do it yourself.Parts are cheap.Pay attention when you take it apart and watch where the play is coming from.If you can diagnose the problem to one part and you cant fix that part yourself, THEN send the part to a smith to fix,just make sure he doesnt just send you a replacement for twice the cost!!If your carefull,a barrel wrench and vice is all you need to replace the barrel.Search the sites in the US and find someone who has already done it.Again depending on the problem,it may just be cheaper to replace the part.besides,if you plan on reblueing,it has to come apart anyway.Its the best way to become totaly familiar with your guns.Dlask(Delta BC) has done great work for me in the past,2 month turn around at this time of year.every town has a smith,but you can ship the gun anywhere you need.Depending what you want to spend,the best work can be found in the states.The "creedmore" BP events bring the finest rolling blocks in the world to the range.Most built from a few "master" builders.
hope this helps PS you going with a badger barrel??
US that have schematics on the rolling block,Its a very simple design.I'm not totally familiar with the it, but plan to build one this winter.Theres only so many places that sort of "play" can come from. maby a worn pin hole, I dont know.With a schematic,or a vid on you tube,you should be able to disasemble the gun.If you dont feel confident after watching the vid,sell me the gun and take up golfing!!Just kidding any reputable smith in your area can tackle the job,but save the money and do it yourself.Parts are cheap.Pay attention when you take it apart and watch where the play is coming from.If you can diagnose the problem to one part and you cant fix that part yourself, THEN send the part to a smith to fix,just make sure he doesnt just send you a replacement for twice the cost!!If your carefull,a barrel wrench and vice is all you need to replace the barrel.Search the sites in the US and find someone who has already done it.Again depending on the problem,it may just be cheaper to replace the part.besides,if you plan on reblueing,it has to come apart anyway.Its the best way to become totaly familiar with your guns.Dlask(Delta BC) has done great work for me in the past,2 month turn around at this time of year.every town has a smith,but you can ship the gun anywhere you need.Depending what you want to spend,the best work can be found in the states.The "creedmore" BP events bring the finest rolling blocks in the world to the range.Most built from a few "master" builders.
hope this helps PS you going with a badger barrel??
If my memory is correct, all that is needed is to run a chambering reamer in; your metric bore should be around .513, should it not? Also some of the guns were rimfire and some were centerfire, so you may have to modify the breach block to centerfire. Final point is that if the slop is only minor, that may not be a problem; if the gun is chamber so tight that the cartridge base pushes on the breach block, the breach can slow down the hammer so that it does not fire on the first fall.
cheers mooncoon
cheers mooncoon
Yes, that's right. I really just need someone with a .50-70 chambering reamer. The play is very slight, and I don't really think it's anything to worry about. Just figured if I was sending the rifle out, anyway, might as well get it checked out!
The bore is great, and the block was already converted to centrefire. This isn't going to be a long range target rifle or anything, just an old rifle for wandering the woods, maybe shooting the odd deer or raccoon.
Have you checked if a 50-70 cartridge can go in? Some of these old swedis rifle have very loose chamber. Personnaly, i use cutted-down 50 Alaskan and it fit well; easy to do and less expensive than a reamer.
Check this site: dutchman.rebooty dot com/rb.html ...
Check this site: dutchman.rebooty dot com/rb.html ...
Yes, .50-70 almost works, but only if I tap the case all the way into the sizing die, and turn the rim down quite a bit. I have lots of nice, new Starline .50-70 brass, that is why I want to use it in this rifle.
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Alberta
Ron Smith rebarrels rolling blocks and I'm sure that nearly any gunsmith could do it for you but most will need to order a reamer which you will probably have to pay for.
Picked up a card from a fellow at the Calgary gun show a couple years ago:
Michael Magee
Remington Rolling Block's
Collector/repair/parts
Green Mountain Barrels/Gunsmithing
Gull Lake, Sask.
306-672-3556
I've shot with guys who have rifles built by him that shot well and looked good. Thats all I know though.
Picked up a card from a fellow at the Calgary gun show a couple years ago:
Michael Magee
Remington Rolling Block's
Collector/repair/parts
Green Mountain Barrels/Gunsmithing
Gull Lake, Sask.
306-672-3556
I've shot with guys who have rifles built by him that shot well and looked good. Thats all I know though.
No chance. Swede chambers vary widely, I had one that would work with .348 cases, but this one, no. Waaay too small for the chamber, won't even engage the extractor.
Sounds like you might be wise to slug the bore and do a chamber cast with paraffin wax or cerrosafe if you have it.
cheers mooncoon
The bores in all three were similar. None of my Swede RB's had the same chamber! One, a Husqvarna, could use the blown out .348 brass. Another, would accept .50-70 as-is. This sporter will take .50-70, but only if I tap each case all the way into the sizing die, and turn down the rims. I turned down five cases, and it works great. I just don't want to alter all my brass, because I intend to buy a trapdoor in .50-70 some day. Since the rifle is already cut down, I may as well just convert it to .50-70. Someone must already have a reamer? I don't want to buy one just to use it once!
