Looking into a cause for a squib

[JAK1981]

I agree with this. Own a lee loadmaster? Lol. Really let's talk about your press. Is it a progressive? If so you probably didn't drop the powder charge. Doubt it's the primer if it fired.

I have a Loadmaster, no issues with it. I loaded these on a Turret, was not in a hurry when I did it either.

 

[JAK1981]

I assume you looked at Hodgdon's site for the data? They list magnum primers with everything in the .357 section to cover guys that assume you need a magnum primer when 99% of the time you don't. I only use them with H110/296, as it is a very slow powder. I'd agree with those who said those cases were probably lacking propellant for whatever reason.

Ya, I am thinking somehow it was lack of powder. I'm going to reassemble these 10 loads and test again. I'll report back when I am done.

 

[bigedp51]

CFE Pistol is a double base powder that has more deterrent coatings to slow the burn rate and lower the peak flame temperature. And double base powders require a magnum primer. A simple check of your reloading manuals will bring this to light. I just picked up my Speer #14 manual and every double base ball powder listed has a asterisk by its load data for a magnum primer for the .357. I always use magnum primers with any double base ball powder because they are harder to ignite.

 

[JAK1981]

CFE Pistol is a double base powder that has more deterrent coatings to slow the burn rate and lower the peak flame temperature. Double base powders require a magnum primer. A simple check of your reloading manuals will bring this to light. I just picked up my Speer #14 manual and every double base ball powder listed has a asterisk by its load data for the .357. I always use magnum primers with any double base ball powder because they are harder to ignite.

Thanks for the info. The mix of responses is very interesting. There is confidence onboth sides of the Magnum vs. Non Magnum primers being a requirement.

I'm eager to give both a try, this time with very meticulous attention while loading. I'll post my particular results when they are available.

 

[Ganderite]

I have made batches of ammo from time to time that had a lot of squibs.

In each case it was a double base powder (usually a ball powder), a light bullet, a load less than max power and a standard primer.

These were loads for applications where I did not want full power, so I solved the problem by switching to a magnum primer and a firm crimp.

The fact that you have made ammo that worked with a standard primer does not tell you much because you can't tell how close you are to the point where the powder does not ignite.

 

[JakeB]

I also own a load master. I look down each case before placing my projectile on. If the powder charge doesn't look right, I pull the case out and weigh that charge. Takes .5 sec for every cartridge I complete plus a few seconds for each suspect one. I have yet to have an issue or one that would have been an over or under charged cartridge by more than 0.1 grain but it only takes one to have a life changing incident. I too am fairly new to reloading. There is another thread on here about a guy with 30 years experience, not one incident until one day he didn't notice he had the wrong powder. Every step should be taken as if you may loose use of your hand if you miss something because you could. That being said, with proper care and attention reloading can provide enjoyment and satisfaction along with many thousands of cartridges of less expensive more accurate ammunition. Enjoy with care.

 

[bigedp51]

I always find these photos amusing, from 1941 until 1985 Remington ran our American Lake City Army Ammunition Plant. And the Army likes ball powder because it meters well and it can be recycled. The amusing point for me is Remington used the 7 1/2 primer for our 5.56 NATO ammunition loaded at Lake City with both single base and double base powders. Needless to say I use the Remington 7 1/2 primer with all my double base ball powder loads in my AR15 rifles. And also why they call these primers "baby flame throwers".

 

[doc25]

I have had a load master that gave me some issues with the auto disk. That's why I ask. If you have a hick up with the auto disk and it doesn't go fully forward you won't drop the charge or may drop a partial charge. You won't get a double charge because the cavity won't overfill unless of course you actuate it twice for some reason.

 

[JAK1981]

My autodisks have been good so far. I did get a low charge once, but that's because my brass was out of spec and did not fully actuate the thrower (because the brass was too short, did not lift the flaring tube high enough)

I'll keep an eye out on it. I mean, so far, I typically measure about 10 charges over the first few minutes of loading, for accuracy.

 

[JAK1981]

Thanks for all the great info guys, especially your experiences with and without magnum primers, the double coated + ball powder info. This was just the sort of information I was looking for.

I'm going to do a retest side by side with and without magnum primers and post the results to the forum.

Thanks again everyone!

 

[Sqr]

I've had a few squibs recently (my first two, and both in a row) and would like some thoughts as to why this has been occurring. This was for a single test batch.

At first I thought I had completely missed charging the case. On the second squib, I thought the cause may be more complicated. So here's what I did after the two squibs.

1. Review the load data. The data is good. I am using 6.3 grains of CFEPistol under a 158 grain copper plated 357 Magnum.

2. Review the quality. Pulled the rest of the batch and verify the specs. 158 gr, check. 6.3 grains of powder, check. Case OAL was good, case length was good. Crimp was good I think. The crimp left a slight groove in the plating, which suggests that the crip was tight enough to cause pressure.

Just as I am writing this, I looked up the primer info and to my surprise, hodgdon calls for a Magnum primer. Could that be it??? Would this cause such a weak ignition? It wasn't crappy results, it was completely failed move past the forcing cone.

Also, I used non Magnum primers for a few batches I've done with 125 grain copper plated projectiles + CFEPistol which did not squib. I got decent results with those, however they were closer to the 7.5 grain range.

Thoughts anyone?

When re-loading you MUST, I say MUST follow the printed documents recommendations. The data from manufacturers will have powder, bullets, BRASS and primer types that are used for their particular cartridges and if you arbitrarily make substitution with any component you MAY experience issues. As pointed out you took your time and began a root cause analysis, however some do not and continue to fire one cartridge after another with catastrophic consequences.

It doesn't matter if a semi doesn't cycle on a squib as I have witnessed shooters rack and fire again after one with.........well need I say more.

"Attention to detail" is the name of the game when it comes to reloading. No if, ands or buts about it!