Looking to borrow .303 Go / No Go gauges

If there is a set of gauges close-by which you can borrow without too much trouble, then go for it. At very least, it will tell you precisely how closely your rifle is fitted.

But one must remember that, even with a rifle measuring MINIMUM and brass measuring MAXIMUM (the ideal situation), there is still 1 thou of clearance there. The gauges allow for an EXTRA 10 thou, plus this 1, which means that your rifle can gauge "okay" when you have 11 thou of head clearance with PERFECT ammunition.

And then you get some ammo with .058 rims, so that gives you another 5 thou to add to the clearance of the rifle AND the theoretical 1 thou, always with perfect ammo, so you now have 16 thousandths clearance. And any Qualified Gunsmith who has read the American magazines will tell you that you are taking your life in your hands with anything more than 3 thou. So you re there, on the range, shooting a rifle/ammunition combination which has 5.333 TIMES the Maximum clearance allowable for safe usage!

Time to buy a new rifle?

Time to buy a new bolt?

Time to go UP 2 numbers on your bolt-head?

Time to slip on an O-ring which will reduce your head clearance to ZERO and thus fireform your brass so that it spaces PERFECTLY from the shoulder. Your rifle will be more accurate, your ammunition will shoot better, your scores will go up and the reloading life of your brass (given that you now neck-size only) has just climbed high enough to induce myocardial infarctions among the entire Boards of Directors at Winchester, Remington and Federal.

In future firings, you don't even need the o-ring because your brass is already perfectly fireformed.

For Lee-Enfield shooters, Ross collectors and others who are relying upon Rimmed or Semi-rimmed ammunition, it really IS the Cat's Meow!

Sounds like a winner to me, anyway.

Hope this helps.
 
I tried the spent primer idea on a SMLE sporter, and the end result was the primer being forced flush with the cartridge as I closed the bolt. Good or bad thing?
 
I tried the spent primer idea on a SMLE sporter, and the end result was the primer being forced flush with the cartridge as I closed the bolt. Good or bad thing?
I'm no expert, but I would say you should measure it and figure out the headspace, which is the whole point. This assumes you're sure that you tried this with new/full length resized brass and NOT a once-fired. I was going to say that means you have nearly perfect headspace, but then I realized all it means is that it is perfectly headspaced for that single cartridge you used. Without going through the steps and measuring you don't know if maybe you used a case with a weird rim thickness, which could give you the wrong idea about your actual headspace...

If I made any error here, one of the experts feel free to correct me.
 
The best, most consistent brass ever made for the .303 round was made in Canada by Defence Industries from 1942 through 1945.

I have gaugd many of thse over the yars and still have not found one which is ONE thou out from the specified Maximum Rim Thickness of .063".

The case is identified by the headstamp, which, on late 1942 through 1945 production, had the DATE on top at 12 oclock, the Factory "DI" at 4 o'clock and the Powder Signifier "Z" at 8 o'clock. Early 1942 ammunition had this same information, although in a more elaborate marking.

You still run into some of this ammo at gun shows. It is noncorrosive and non-mercuric and takes standard .210" Boxer primers.

Because the Brass is getting on in years (67 and older) it has hardened from age, but it may be annealed back to the way it started.

For CONSISTENCY you will not find better brass anywhere.

Consistency is the key to accuracy.
 
Smellie, I didn't worry about my M1's headspace, but the NDI shop magnafluxed the bolt and the locking lug was CRACKED. Armourer gave me another bolt. Also got me a new barrel. It pays to have friends. :)
 
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