looking to borrow a case extractor for Enfield
- Thread starter Colin
- Start date
#1. Remove bolt
#2. Take a wood (or steel pipe) dowel that just slides into the back end of the case.
#3. Insert from the action side until it stops short at the neck of the case and mark the dowl at the base of the case.
#4. Apply krazy glue to the dowel and insert into the case. (Hold rifle muzzle up while you do this and make sure you keep it muzzle up until the krazy glue is cured)
#5. Once cured squirt some liquid wrench or the like down from the muzzle and let sit for 10 min.
#6. Clamp other end of dowel with vise grip and twist then pull
I suggest the steel pipe and a bit of JB weld or the like and once dried turn and pull with a pipe wrench
#2. Take a wood (or steel pipe) dowel that just slides into the back end of the case.
#3. Insert from the action side until it stops short at the neck of the case and mark the dowl at the base of the case.
#4. Apply krazy glue to the dowel and insert into the case. (Hold rifle muzzle up while you do this and make sure you keep it muzzle up until the krazy glue is cured)
#5. Once cured squirt some liquid wrench or the like down from the muzzle and let sit for 10 min.
#6. Clamp other end of dowel with vise grip and twist then pull
I suggest the steel pipe and a bit of JB weld or the like and once dried turn and pull with a pipe wrench
Well then, use a 35 cal brush. The bristles are hidden in the case except for a few sticking out of the neck. They are suppose to lock to pull the headless case out. I have never had a problem with the brush method yet.
Just my 2c.
Just my 2c.
The Army way was just to run a fresh round up the pipe until it stuck, then slap hard on the bolt-handle. Both generally come out together, you take the bum casing off the live round and you're good to go.
Good practice to clean the chamber after getting a stuck round.
WHY did the thing stick in the first place? Case separations are a warning that you are doing something wrong, so figure out what it is that you're doing wrong. MOST likely is cases too long for the chamber, which means stretched brass. WHY is is stretching so badly? Are you fireforming your brass and keeping it trimmed? Are you neck-sizing only? Are you partially case-sizing? Are you lubricating the INSIDES of the case-necks? What type of brass are you using? How old is it? Has it been properly annealed if it needed it? Fifty more questions.......
Don't let anyone scream "HEADSPACE!! HEADSPACE!!". If you are doing things right, it is not a problem.
And, if you are doing things right, separated and stuck casings should not occur.
Hope this helps.
Good practice to clean the chamber after getting a stuck round.
WHY did the thing stick in the first place? Case separations are a warning that you are doing something wrong, so figure out what it is that you're doing wrong. MOST likely is cases too long for the chamber, which means stretched brass. WHY is is stretching so badly? Are you fireforming your brass and keeping it trimmed? Are you neck-sizing only? Are you partially case-sizing? Are you lubricating the INSIDES of the case-necks? What type of brass are you using? How old is it? Has it been properly annealed if it needed it? Fifty more questions.......
Don't let anyone scream "HEADSPACE!! HEADSPACE!!". If you are doing things right, it is not a problem.
And, if you are doing things right, separated and stuck casings should not occur.
Hope this helps.
I tried my normal way of removing the case, which is the bronze brush method. Normally if this happens they don't stick as my loads are fairly light. Yes I do trim to length as well. I neck size the .303 brass and it's a mixture of ages and head stamps.
Cottage Hill Bill
CGN Regular
- Location
- Pensacola, FL USA
.303 case extractors are available from Midway USA and Brownells and ebay. Price ranges from $10-$15 USD. If you shoot .303 british it should be part of your range bag. I carry one in my spare ammo wallet if I hunt with .303B.
