Looking to buy my first Lee Enfield - looking for some pointers

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platnumbob

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Oddly I have never really looked much into these beautiful and historic rifles and suddenly I have caught a bit of a bug to own one. I believe I want a WWI example, with the long sword like bayonets. I also would want to shoot it (at least a little bit), but suspect it would be mostly a safe queen. A couple of quick questions:

-Am I looking for a SMLE MK III?

-What should I expect to spend for a full wood functional example? I don't need a mint condition gun, I figure a milsurp should have some character from use.

-Anything I should look out for in particular with these guns that would impact value/ price/ shootability? I am guessing rifles that have matching numbers generally command a greater value.

Thanks, sorry I am a huge newbie on these!
 
Mk 3 or 3* are both appropriate for WW1. What you will pay will depend upon exactly what level of originality/ condition you want. I suspect you can find something decent for $500 or $600 if you look around a bit. A really nice original early war Mk 3 with volley sights, cutoff, and adjustable rear sight could get you well above $1500. Keep in mind that dealer prices don't necessarily correlate with prices at auction or on the EE or at shows. If you do plan to shoot it try to find a seller that is willing to tell you that it is mechanically in-spec and has a tight fitting forend. There are a lot out there that have been monkeyed with and need work prior to shooting. Avoid "DP" marked guns simply because it's easy to find a non-DP to shoot.

milsurpo
 
Be aware...earlier ones will probably have throat erosion from cordite ammo. May still shoot well. Lots of nice no1 mk3 I see forsale with great bores are aussie. Mine is a 41 aussie ...so ww2 obviously. But pristine bore and nice condition wood...

Secretly I lust for a ww1 bsa though.

Dp means drill purpose...

Cutoff, no1 mk3 no star originally had a mag cutoff for single cartridge loading.
 
I'd suggest getting a hold of any one of Ian D. Skennerton's books on the Lee-Enfield. You'll find the answer to any question you may have in his writings.
If you're just getting started out there is also Charles Strattons soft cover works which cover a lot of ground and will be less expensive than the hard cover versions Of Skennerton's.
All good reads.
 
Bore bore and bore. My current Lee Enfield, a No.4 Mk.1 shoots very well, but I had one with an oversized and shot out bore that key holed every round and then as lousy. If the bore is in good shape and the wood is nice they are awesome rifles. Look for one with the adjustable aperture sight. Easily the best sight on a milsurp of that era
 
Matching serial numbers on the bolt/receiver. Hardware that isn't buggered up from ham-fisted home gun smiths with ill fitting screwdrivers. A forend that is free of cracks - or, one that has been properly repaired. Receiver is free of drilled/tapped scope mounts - unless they have been properly filled (even so, the value declines). Bolt head rail is not worn out and will not allow the bolt head to jump the rail at any point along its travel - other than at the release. Bushings/springs in the correct places (although these can be replaced). Tight/solid butt to receiver fit (shall not wiggle around if you try to rotate/move it). Hand guards free of cracks, or properly repaired - usually why you see them with the "ears" cut off.

As for that 1915, I don't know - there's something about it that makes me wonder if it isn't a restoration back to military spec. The wood looks rather new and unblemished. The bayonet, regardless of being possibly RCR marked isn't really worth a lot in that shape. Minimal finish left, pitted/stained a lot, etc.

Two excellent introductory videos, if you have the opportunity to fondle prior to purchase:


 
platnumbob said:
Very helpful posts, thanks guys. Thoughts on this 1915 BSA for $900? Seems to be in the price range of what was mentioned above and has matching numbers except for the rear sight.

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...ee-enfield-full-wood-military-rifles-for-sale
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I strongly suspect this is a desporterized rifle. First off, difference between metal shape and wood. Second, the wood below the front long range sight plate doesn't show the "belly" which would be expected with that rifle. I suspect the guy who desporterized this one bought some stamps to fake the numbers on the forend. So, if I am right, this ain't worth what is being asked for it.

Before you jump on something that "looks" like a great deal, ask lots of questions, to the seller, and here. For the new collector, there may not seem to be many differences between a badly desporterized gun worth maybe $400 and an original one which could be worth twice that or more.

Even all-original ones can be beat up and require repairs. Again, taking your time, reading lots is a good idea!
 
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FWIW, for actual shooting, you may well prefer a no.4 rifle from ww2. The ww1 rifles have a shorter sight radius so are harder to shoot accurately.

Also, like 50% or more of rifles on the EE are restored sporters. Avoid those like the plague as you don't know who did the work and if it was done competently.

Ask if it's original or restored. If it's not original, walk. That's my firm opinion.
 
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louthepou said:
I strongly suspect this is a desporterized rifle. First off, difference between metal shape and wood. Second, the wood below the front long range sight plate doesn't show the "belly" which would be expected with that rifle. I suspect the guy who desporterized this one bought some stamps to fake the numbers on the forend. So, if I am right, this ain't worth what is being asked for it.

Before you jump on something that "looks" like a great deal, ask lots of questions, to the seller, and here. For the new collector, there may not seem to be many differences between a badly desporterized gun worth maybe $400 and an original one which could be worth twice that or more.

Even all-original ones can be beat up and require repairs. Again, taking your time, reading lots is a good idea!
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It's an outright fake. That is a 1930's rsaf Enfield stock faked to look like a pre-1916 mk iii stock. The profile is totally incorrect. It's a turd. Avoid avoid avoid.
 
Claven2 said:
It's an outright fake. That is a 1930's rsaf Enfield stock faked to look like a pre-1916 mk iii stock. The profile is totally incorrect. It's a turd. Avoid avoid avoid.
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Yeah, looked on my phone first - now on my computer. Argh. Sad to see someone try to get that much money for it.
 
Claven2 said:
The world is full of people that own trash and try to sell it like it's gold. Sadly.

Buy quality stuff. Buy once, cry once.
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I learned that lesson long ago - but for the uninitiated these SMLE rifles are difficult to judge (ie de-sport vs original). Thanks for all the comments. Looks like I will have to buy from a seller with heavy CGN trading history or really learn the good vs bad before making a purchase! These guns suddenly fascinate me and are outside of my usual firearms knowledge.
 
Of all the milsurps I have bought LE seem to be the hardest to judge. I’ve gotten a few beauties and a few turds especially early one when I didn’t ask questions. I personally like the No.4 better but the No.3 are nice as well.
 
M1-Garand said:
If you want a genuine Lee Enfield get in touch with Stuart Hardcastle at http://leeenfieldrestorations.com/index.html of the most knowlegeable people when it comes to Lee Enfields
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Second this.

So many no4s and no1s in his garage I couldn't decide. Makes sure everything is 100% on them.

Bought a no4 mk1* savage with very nice original wood.


And yes. No1 mk3 are very hard to shoot at 200yds plus accurately. Leaf sight and short radius.
 
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Collecting Lee Enfields can be a lot of fun, I was really into it about 20 years ago, when the values were lower so nobody was bothering to "desporterize" for resale.

My suggestion is to do some research and see what LE would interest you the most. Some possibilities:
-Canadian issued samples (should have the "C" Arrow marks)
-Canadian manufactured samples (Long Branch)
-different countries of manufactures (England had a few manufacturers, Australia Lithgow, India Ishapore, Canada Long Branch etc.)
-models (no1 mk3, no1 mk3*, no4 mk1, no4 mk1*, no4 mk 1/2, no4 mk 2, etc)

The no1 mk3 is the model most associated with WW1, but purists will note that this model was also manufactured and issued into the 50s (Lithgow and Ishapore never changed over production to the no4 series). At the end of the production run, Ishapore produced 2A models chambered in 7.62 NATO.

You should be able to find a good shooter in whatever flavour you prefer. Be patient and enjoy the quest, thats half the fun!
 
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