Threemorewishes
CGN Regular
- Location
- Ottawa Ontario Canada
Title says it all. Rent or buy. Please PM me with details.
Thanks
Threemorewishes
Thanks
Threemorewishes
Looking to buy or rent a 22 LR chamber reamer and leade/throat tool.
- Thread starter Threemorewishes
- Start date
You need to put up a bit more info.
You chambering a bolt gun? Semi auto?
You want match ammo or some that you can buy at Ctire?
There's about fifty flavors of chamber reamer out there just in 22.
There was a thread on the gunsmithing forum on pratcticalmachinist that listed some dimensions. They varied a lot!
You got access to a lathe? a D bit reamer is pretty easy to make, if you are not trying to rebarrel a target gun.
Cheers
Trev
You chambering a bolt gun? Semi auto?
You want match ammo or some that you can buy at Ctire?
There's about fifty flavors of chamber reamer out there just in 22.
There was a thread on the gunsmithing forum on pratcticalmachinist that listed some dimensions. They varied a lot!
You got access to a lathe? a D bit reamer is pretty easy to make, if you are not trying to rebarrel a target gun.
Cheers
Trev
Threemorewishes
CGN Regular
- Location
- Ottawa Ontario Canada
The reamer is needed to clean up an already existing chamber in a rotary breech gun of unknown (guessing European?) manufacture. I cannot imagine it is a match chamber on this gun.
How do you make a D bit reamer?
Thanks
Threemorewishes
How do you make a D bit reamer?
Thanks
Threemorewishes
D bit reamer.
Start with some water hardening drill rod, or 1095 steel in the lathe, and a decent drawing of the chamber dimensions that you want to work with.
Turn the outside of the bar to the shape and size you need, considering that you want a pilot at the front, or stub to put a brass or bronze pilot onto, as well as the leade.
Once the shape has been turned, grind, file or mill away just a tiny bit less than half the shape. This makes the cross section a "D", thus the name. I like to use a grinding wheel, as it leaves the face hollow ground a bit, making honing a bit easier.
Harden it. Propane torch, red heat (till it won't stick to a magnet) and plonk it into a tin of water. You can throw a bit of salt into the water (mixed in) and it will cool it a bit faster, but plain high carbon or drill rod will generally gharden pretty effectively without it) You can wrap a bit of iron wire around the reamer, and smear the whole thing down with pure soap, to reduce scaling, or not.
Let it sit overnight in a glass of vinegar, with a couple tablespoons of salt mixed in. You want it fully submerged! This will clean the scale off.
Use a diamond file to make flat the flat side. This sharpens the reamer. Work carefully. You don't want to round over the edges. You can use a fine stone, too.
You don't want to grind or file past halfway, and you definitely want to be careful with the stone or diamond file, that you don't round the edges.
You will probably want to experiment on a scrap of barrel stock, as well as do some trial runs with the hardening.
Drill rod from a machine tool supply place. Look for W-1 (water hardening) or O-1 (Oil hardening, some cooking oil will work)
It's not the be-all to end all, but you can make a serviceable chamber that way, with some care.
There have been a lot of wildcat reamers made this way over the years.
Maybe a way to get done what you need.
Cheers
Trev
Start with some water hardening drill rod, or 1095 steel in the lathe, and a decent drawing of the chamber dimensions that you want to work with.
Turn the outside of the bar to the shape and size you need, considering that you want a pilot at the front, or stub to put a brass or bronze pilot onto, as well as the leade.
Once the shape has been turned, grind, file or mill away just a tiny bit less than half the shape. This makes the cross section a "D", thus the name. I like to use a grinding wheel, as it leaves the face hollow ground a bit, making honing a bit easier.
Harden it. Propane torch, red heat (till it won't stick to a magnet) and plonk it into a tin of water. You can throw a bit of salt into the water (mixed in) and it will cool it a bit faster, but plain high carbon or drill rod will generally gharden pretty effectively without it) You can wrap a bit of iron wire around the reamer, and smear the whole thing down with pure soap, to reduce scaling, or not.
Let it sit overnight in a glass of vinegar, with a couple tablespoons of salt mixed in. You want it fully submerged! This will clean the scale off.
Use a diamond file to make flat the flat side. This sharpens the reamer. Work carefully. You don't want to round over the edges. You can use a fine stone, too.
You don't want to grind or file past halfway, and you definitely want to be careful with the stone or diamond file, that you don't round the edges.
You will probably want to experiment on a scrap of barrel stock, as well as do some trial runs with the hardening.
Drill rod from a machine tool supply place. Look for W-1 (water hardening) or O-1 (Oil hardening, some cooking oil will work)
It's not the be-all to end all, but you can make a serviceable chamber that way, with some care.
There have been a lot of wildcat reamers made this way over the years.
Maybe a way to get done what you need.
Cheers
Trev
Threemorewishes
CGN Regular
- Location
- Ottawa Ontario Canada
Thanks for all the info. I will give it a go and post the results.
