Looking to get into long range and need some advice

T

TheArmyMan204

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So I have some cool semi auto/tactical type fun guns but I've had long range shooting always in the back of my mind

My very small expirence so far has been reloading .30-06 for my Remington 770 (yes I know lol) and getting it under 1 Moa. Never shot past 300 yards even

I'm very interested in the Savage 10FCP-SR. Would you guys recommend it in a 20 inch barrel?

And the biggest question is glass? I definitely wants a turret system in mils.but don't know where too look. Total budget is about $2000 for rifle, scope, rings and bipod

Thanks guys
 
Lets see how everyone takes this advice.

Spend $2000 on glass and put it on your 1moa rem 770. A used NF nxs can be had for $2000.

Use that to learn how to shoot. Understand its limitations with barrel heat and what not. Then once you can afford another $1500 or so, start looking at rifles.
 
Not bad advice if you also get and record good data @ different distances with that 770/NF scope.

I shoot an FCP-K and really like it. The 20" BBL you mention is great for tac work and getting in and about in a helicopter but not my 1st choice for a long distance tube.

I'll add this, all thing being equal...a laser accurate expensive rifle combined with poor wind calls will never be as good as a less acurate rifle with a excellent wind reading.

Focus on nailing the wind velocity/direction and how it affects your holdoffs or windage adjustments. Maybe get a Kestrel to check yourself.
 
Rifles can be modified, loads can be tweaked, but the scope will never be one bit better than the day you brng it home. If it doesn't track, it's junk. You'd be surprised how many don't.
 
Yeah, I'll chime in to say the same as everyone else. If you've got a load worked out already so that you're consistently sub-MOA then just put some real good, repeatable glass on it and get to learning to read the wind, it's much harder than you think! A used NF NXS would be sweet, or a new Sightron S3 FFP or NF SHV 4-14 F1 or Bushnell DMR. Then start setting aside some money to either build or buy something in 6.5cm/.260/6.5x47 with a 26" tube. A 20" .308 is fine (I have one) but honestly, I'm eagerly anticipating when I get a 6.5 sorted out. Never mind how much flatter they shoot, but they cheat the wind that much better. No reason not to go that way if you already reload and this is for target anyways, just hands down better ballistics.
 
Ill continue to echo the glass comment...

If youre just starting out, I wouldn't look at anything less than the Vortex Viper PST 6-24 or a similar Sightron offering (in mils, and first focal plane being a MUST). If you want to stretch that scope a little longer, then look at Nightforce, Leupold, Vortex Razor. If you want to buy your last scope ever, then look at the higher-end Nightforce (ATACR F1, BEAST), Schmidt & Bender, and/or Tangent Theta. I ack that that will be over double your budget for the whole rig...but something to consider if you want to upgrade later.

Keep shooting what you have and figure out its limitations. You will see massive gains in the early days as your skills improve, and things like reloading, free-floating the barrel, etc... take effect. After that initial jump (you'll be hooked!) and those gains will become smaller and with a higher cost for "some" improvement. Its an awesome discipline with just as much learning off the gun/range as actually putting rounds downrange. Enjoy the journey!

Check out the "Road to Precision" youtube series a CGN member made a few years back, and that will give you a good intro into what the sports and equipment are all about.

Cheers!
 
chrisward3 said:
Ill continue to echo the glass comment...

If youre just starting out, I wouldn't look at anything less than the Vortex Viper PST 6-24 or a similar Sightron offering (in mils, and first focal plane being a MUST). If you want to stretch that scope a little longer, then look at Nightforce, Leupold, Vortex Razor. If you want to buy your last scope ever, then look at the higher-end Nightforce (ATACR F1, BEAST), Schmidt & Bender, and/or Tangent Theta. I ack that that will be over double your budget for the whole rig...but something to consider if you want to upgrade later.

Keep shooting what you have and figure out its limitations. You will see massive gains in the early days as your skills improve, and things like reloading, free-floating the barrel, etc... take effect. After that initial jump (you'll be hooked!) and those gains will become smaller and with a higher cost for "some" improvement. Its an awesome discipline with just as much learning off the gun/range as actually putting rounds downrange. Enjoy the journey!

Check out the "Road to Precision" youtube series a CGN member made a few years back, and that will give you a good intro into what the sports and equipment are all about.

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Please explain why FFP is a must ? I have shot to 2600 yards with a SFP ATACR and wasn't hindered in any way shape or form !
 
Youre absolutely right. I should have prefaced it by saying that it depends on what the OP is looking to shoot or compete in.

An FFP scope (to me) is the most flexible type of setup across all disciplines, especially when using that reticle to measure distances or corrections for follow up shots. I like knowing that my calls and measurements are referenced correctly to any magnification power (using an H59 reticle), and that comes at a slightly higher cost than SFP.

A SFP scope will shoot just as well as an FFP when distances are known and adjustments are made using turrets. An FFP scope will excel when using holds at unknown distances without worrying about what power setting youre on.

At the end of the day, I would rather have as many tools available to me as possible and then choose how to employ the scope. I also chose to invest in one scope (S&B PMII 5-25 w H59) vice multiple, so that one has all the bells and whistles and is used across all my rifles (including my tiny savage mk2...lol).

I worked with the NF ATACR for the better part of last year doing testing on their glass, and was extremely impressed with their consistency across all zoom values, and that's impressive at 2600yd!

My $0.02...
 
Lol, yup. Lot of people get hung up on the FFP thing. Not really sure many people can explain it properly either. Dont see to many people ranging with their reticles or even knowing how to. And even if they know the math being capable of doing it accurately. First you need to accurately know the size of your target and it only has value if you are backing off you magnification. find I dont do that very much. The only FFP scope I have is the one on my PRS rifle and that is because of all the up close targets that I have to find quick.

The second one is why are MILS a MUST? Both systems work find and are easy to use. I think a big portion of why you choose MIL or MOA is what your shooting partner (if you have one) shoots and if you see targets in inches or meter (Centimeters). My partner shoots MOA, I see steel plates in inches. I dont range with a reticle. MOA makes sense to me and shooting with a partner that shoots MOA means we both have matching calls.

There is lots of good advice on this thread, but you dont need to spend 2k on an optic. There are excellent options out there like the Sightron for about $1,300 and the Nightforce SHV F1 for $1,400 or the Burris XTR II for $1,600 that will be excellent optics that you will not look back from. Stay away from the Vortex PST lines. They dont hold a candle to any of those other options and are a poor stepping stone to a decent optic that costs the same as any of those options.

Start with a decent Remington 700 SPS platform and not a 770 because at least then you will have a decent platform to build a custom off of. Or a Savage. The 770 barely has any aftermarket support.

Dont let the glass snobs get you focused on a 2k plus optic on a $300 rifle. It is true, great glass is a lasting investment, but the cost of the best glass and the diminishing returns on it is crazy. I have two Nightforce NXS and I have the Burris XTR II. Very happy with my choice on the Burris. Saved $600 and got great features and glass I am happy with that will still take me to a mile with clarity and comfort.

Shane
 
Hey,
Try and find someone that competes in "f" class or "tr".
I setup a 700 etc only to sell it after one trip to the range after discovering what "tr" is.
I use glass for hunting but really nothing like shooting groups on iron sights, twice as tight as anyone with a 700 and a scope.
 
Chris (Victoria) said:
Hey,
Try and find someone that competes in "f" class or "tr".
I setup a 700 etc only to sell it after one trip to the range after discovering what "tr" is.
I use glass for hunting but really nothing like shooting groups on iron sights, twice as tight as anyone with a 700 and a scope.
Click to expand...

Who likes long range shooting anyways. Why not get into 10m air rifle?...
 
sit back, make some popcorn.... A lot of info here. This will take a week to get through.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJUaiRIEduNXoal2_PkBZi0vDCIcEPxUn

I blasted some quick videos into this thread also, good basic beginning videos. Not as in depth as the stuff above...

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...onal-videos-for-the-long-range-shooter!/page4

If you don't want to hunt, here is the playlist I send my friends who want to get into the basics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COoXVpGfXQE&list=PL2a9NjuzC8RpHBXH0DtzOJI2Na95jA98b
 
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