Looking to make my 10/22 accurate to 100 yards...
- Thread starter mr00jimbo
- Start date
The first thing to do if you want to improve accuracy is get a new barrel. Green Mountain, Volquartsen, Lilja, Butler Creek (avoid the carbon fiber barrel)etc..
The second thing to do is to lighten up your trigger pull via aftermarket trigger assembly or installing a VQ or PC targert hammer in your factor trigger assembly.
These are the 2 biggest things you can do to improve accuracy. There are others but they won't have as drastic of an improvement as these changes.
If you want, check out my website. I go into depth about this topic. www.rugerfan.com
The second thing to do is to lighten up your trigger pull via aftermarket trigger assembly or installing a VQ or PC targert hammer in your factor trigger assembly.
These are the 2 biggest things you can do to improve accuracy. There are others but they won't have as drastic of an improvement as these changes.
If you want, check out my website. I go into depth about this topic. www.rugerfan.com
Last edited:
www.rimfirecentral.com
Loads of info in improvements to the 10/22.
Depending on what you consider accurate @ 100yds I would be surprised if you cant get there with the stock barrel.
Loads of info in improvements to the 10/22.
Depending on what you consider accurate @ 100yds I would be surprised if you cant get there with the stock barrel.
cz452shooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Sparwood, BC
I would say the barrel is your best bet, and then a stock, and also a trigger would help quite a bit.
GM barrels would be your best bet for putting out the best accuracy for the money. IMO almost comparible to lilja's line of 1022 barrels.
GM barrels would be your best bet for putting out the best accuracy for the money. IMO almost comparible to lilja's line of 1022 barrels.
Big JD-From the hills
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Saskatchewan.
I have a GM barrel, and its not super spectacular or anything.
The best for the money would of been a used .22, or a newer cz452.
You can always try bedding the action/barrel, tuning the trigger, and proper scope mount bedded to the reciver.
Personaly I would leave it as is as its a nice handy gun as is, and buy something else for the distance target/varmin work.
The best for the money would of been a used .22, or a newer cz452.
You can always try bedding the action/barrel, tuning the trigger, and proper scope mount bedded to the reciver.
Personaly I would leave it as is as its a nice handy gun as is, and buy something else for the distance target/varmin work.
- Location
- Prince George, BC
im sure it's plenty acrruate as it is. have you tried it yet? how acrurate are you talking? as long as your not trying to punch them through the same hole i think you should be fine. Ive got a 70+ yr old Winchester Mod62 that i was shooting siloutte with and hitting the rams at the 100yrd mark. I can make a respectable group with it out at 100yrds as well. so if my 70+yr old .22 thats seen hudreds of thousands if not millions of rounds through it can do it, then I think your new gun should be more then capable. Just try. you dont need $1000 worth of stuff on a $300 gun to make it shoot good, it'll make it shoot better mind you but I think with a simple barrel swap you could post some really nice groups.
cz452shooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Sparwood, BC
I'm in the mood for Writing
Barrels
As you probably know, a good barrel is essential for good accuracy. Without a good barrel, you won't be pleased with accuracy. There are several barrels out there ranging from Butler Creek, GM, shilen, Lilja, Clark, Clerk, ect.
If I were you, the only two I would consider would be Lilja and GM, or Green mountain. The lilja is going to cost a lot more then the GM.
I have a GM barrel on my 10/22 (.920 bull barrel, 20" blued), and I am VERY HAPPY with it. It is very accurate, infact, almost as accurate as some of my benchrest guns at 25 yards.
The lilja may be a tad more accurate, so it is up to you if you want to spend up to 3 or 4 times more to get that tad bit more of accuracy, but if you are looking for the best bang for the buck, GM would be the one without a doubt. I wouldn't ever get a butler creek barrel (they are somewhat hit and miss)
One barrel that I honestly would NOT get is the butler creek. Although I personally have never owned one, I have heard just as many bad comments as I have good ones so I would tend to stay away from them.
Stocks:
Again, there are many choices for stocks out there, from skinny sporter stocks, to wide benchrest stocks. On my "Ultimate" 10/22, I have a Revival industries Yukon stock in electric blue. It is made more for offhand shooting I believe (because of the very tall cheekpiece and the forend feels very good while holding it offhand), but the forend, nearer to the trigger gaurd has a flater section that I rest on the bags.
THere are some good choices for stocks that are made for more benchrest purposes. A good one to look at would be the Bell and Carlson anschutz style stock. It is very flat on the bottom, and has a design that will ride the bags better. If you can afford it, Mcmillian makes some very nice benchrest stocks, but they are a lot of money.
You could always of course modify the factory stock, but like modifying just about anything this is going to take time... A lot of time. I modified the factory stock on mine into a more benchrest configuration while still having the forend somewhat rounded near the underside of the clip which means that it works for both offhand shooting and benchrest shooting. But generally I put this one on while I am shooting off the bench and put the other stock (Revival industries) on while I am shooting offhand.
For a cheaper approach the Hogue overmold is a nice stock. Well suited for hunting or in the bush because of the rubber like finnish
Triggers:
You can spend $30 to do a trigger job, or you can spend close to $300 (for a kdd).
There are several choices for triggers that I would look at. If your looking for a good cheap way to get a fairly light trigger (around the 2.5lbs range) the VQ hammer would be a good choice. Another choice would be Skeeters trigger kit (this is what I have on my 10/22). The triggger is around 1.8lbs, nice for allaround shooting.
Again, there is also a very expensive way to do things. The Kidd trigger is a very very nice trigger, that will get pull weight down to around the 6-8oz range. It comes with a cost though. At around $300 US it is very pricy.
One other option would be to modify the trigger you have now. This involves changing the angle of the "hook" on the hammer, by grinding away until your are around the 3.9 Degree area I believe. Preatty hard to do if your not confident doing it. This is what I did with my 10/22, along with slight polishing, and the trigger is around the 2 pound range.
A good rest is also neccessery for good shooting. Here is a picture of some rests I have
Glass Bedding
Glass bedding can also be nearly essential for a good shooting gun. I have three what I would call benchrest guns (Winchester 52D custom, Anschutz 54, and Valmet Finnish lion.). Two of them are glass bedded... Guess which two shoot the best???
Basically glass bedding insures tight contact between the stock and barreled action without the stock touching (epoxy is the only thing touching). Epoxy is much harder than the wood and does not change in the weather like a wood stock does. Glass bedding also helps the gun not to change a lot in the weather due to humidity and also if you take the stock out of the gun and put it back on you won't find such as large difference in POI.
In short here is how I glass bedded my 10/22
1. Prepare stock for glass bedding my making a barrel channel in the fore arm of the stock about 1/8” deep and about 3 – 3 ½ inches forward of the recoil lug
2. For glass bedding the rear of the action make a channel for the bedding material to go about 1/8 of an inch deep and about ¼ - 1/8 deep. Make channel extent up the sides about 3 inches or so on either side and across the back
3. Use any old washer for a pillar and where the takedown screw goes make a spot for the pillar so that it sits equal or a bit higher than the surrounding wood so that the action screw/v-block can not squish surrounding wood
4. When you are ready to glass bed, apply 2-3 coats of release agent to any metal parts that could come in contact with the bedding material. You can not use enough release agent.
5. Remove bolt, trigger group, and all other parts from the reciever.
6. Place masking tape around wood so that any extra glass bedding material goes on the tape and not on the stock.
7. Place modeling clay around all areas that are going to be bedded to insure that no access bedding will get into any places that you do not want them to go. When bedding the rear of the reciever, place modeling clay in trigger group pin holes, bolt buffer hole, and a bit on the underside of the reciever.
8. I would bed the fore-arm of the stock and pillar bed first and then do the rear of the stock.
9. Place epoxy in barrel channel so that when you snug the takedown screw, epoxy comes out the side of the stock onto the tape. Also place pillar in hole (when you adding clay make sure that you put some in there so that no epoxy can fill the takedown screw). Epoxy the pillar in place.
10. After you have filled the fore-arm and the pillar with epoxy snug the takedown screw a fair bit and leave gun for about three and a half or four hours for the epoxy to dry.
11. After that is done, try taking out the barreled action to make sure that everything can still come out. If everything is all right, put it back in the stock and let it sit for about a day.
12. To bed the rear of the reciever, place enough epoxy in and around the channels (with release agent on) and place barreled action in stock. Let the gun sit for about three and half or four hours again and try taking it out to make sure everything is all right.
12. Give the gun about three days for the glass bedding to completely dry and go shoot it; You should see an improvement in accuracy.
Send me an email at Jordan1022@shaw.ca and I can provide pictures.
This should clear things up
Jordan
Barrels
As you probably know, a good barrel is essential for good accuracy. Without a good barrel, you won't be pleased with accuracy. There are several barrels out there ranging from Butler Creek, GM, shilen, Lilja, Clark, Clerk, ect.
If I were you, the only two I would consider would be Lilja and GM, or Green mountain. The lilja is going to cost a lot more then the GM.
I have a GM barrel on my 10/22 (.920 bull barrel, 20" blued), and I am VERY HAPPY with it. It is very accurate, infact, almost as accurate as some of my benchrest guns at 25 yards.
The lilja may be a tad more accurate, so it is up to you if you want to spend up to 3 or 4 times more to get that tad bit more of accuracy, but if you are looking for the best bang for the buck, GM would be the one without a doubt. I wouldn't ever get a butler creek barrel (they are somewhat hit and miss)
One barrel that I honestly would NOT get is the butler creek. Although I personally have never owned one, I have heard just as many bad comments as I have good ones so I would tend to stay away from them.
Stocks:
Again, there are many choices for stocks out there, from skinny sporter stocks, to wide benchrest stocks. On my "Ultimate" 10/22, I have a Revival industries Yukon stock in electric blue. It is made more for offhand shooting I believe (because of the very tall cheekpiece and the forend feels very good while holding it offhand), but the forend, nearer to the trigger gaurd has a flater section that I rest on the bags.
THere are some good choices for stocks that are made for more benchrest purposes. A good one to look at would be the Bell and Carlson anschutz style stock. It is very flat on the bottom, and has a design that will ride the bags better. If you can afford it, Mcmillian makes some very nice benchrest stocks, but they are a lot of money.
You could always of course modify the factory stock, but like modifying just about anything this is going to take time... A lot of time. I modified the factory stock on mine into a more benchrest configuration while still having the forend somewhat rounded near the underside of the clip which means that it works for both offhand shooting and benchrest shooting. But generally I put this one on while I am shooting off the bench and put the other stock (Revival industries) on while I am shooting offhand.
For a cheaper approach the Hogue overmold is a nice stock. Well suited for hunting or in the bush because of the rubber like finnish
Triggers:
You can spend $30 to do a trigger job, or you can spend close to $300 (for a kdd).
There are several choices for triggers that I would look at. If your looking for a good cheap way to get a fairly light trigger (around the 2.5lbs range) the VQ hammer would be a good choice. Another choice would be Skeeters trigger kit (this is what I have on my 10/22). The triggger is around 1.8lbs, nice for allaround shooting.
Again, there is also a very expensive way to do things. The Kidd trigger is a very very nice trigger, that will get pull weight down to around the 6-8oz range. It comes with a cost though
. At around $300 US it is very pricy. One other option would be to modify the trigger you have now. This involves changing the angle of the "hook" on the hammer, by grinding away until your are around the 3.9 Degree area I believe. Preatty hard to do if your not confident doing it. This is what I did with my 10/22, along with slight polishing, and the trigger is around the 2 pound range.
A good rest is also neccessery for good shooting. Here is a picture of some rests I have
Glass Bedding
Glass bedding can also be nearly essential for a good shooting gun. I have three what I would call benchrest guns (Winchester 52D custom, Anschutz 54, and Valmet Finnish lion.). Two of them are glass bedded... Guess which two shoot the best???
Basically glass bedding insures tight contact between the stock and barreled action without the stock touching (epoxy is the only thing touching). Epoxy is much harder than the wood and does not change in the weather like a wood stock does. Glass bedding also helps the gun not to change a lot in the weather due to humidity and also if you take the stock out of the gun and put it back on you won't find such as large difference in POI.
In short here is how I glass bedded my 10/22
1. Prepare stock for glass bedding my making a barrel channel in the fore arm of the stock about 1/8” deep and about 3 – 3 ½ inches forward of the recoil lug
2. For glass bedding the rear of the action make a channel for the bedding material to go about 1/8 of an inch deep and about ¼ - 1/8 deep. Make channel extent up the sides about 3 inches or so on either side and across the back
3. Use any old washer for a pillar and where the takedown screw goes make a spot for the pillar so that it sits equal or a bit higher than the surrounding wood so that the action screw/v-block can not squish surrounding wood
4. When you are ready to glass bed, apply 2-3 coats of release agent to any metal parts that could come in contact with the bedding material. You can not use enough release agent.
5. Remove bolt, trigger group, and all other parts from the reciever.
6. Place masking tape around wood so that any extra glass bedding material goes on the tape and not on the stock.
7. Place modeling clay around all areas that are going to be bedded to insure that no access bedding will get into any places that you do not want them to go. When bedding the rear of the reciever, place modeling clay in trigger group pin holes, bolt buffer hole, and a bit on the underside of the reciever.
8. I would bed the fore-arm of the stock and pillar bed first and then do the rear of the stock.
9. Place epoxy in barrel channel so that when you snug the takedown screw, epoxy comes out the side of the stock onto the tape. Also place pillar in hole (when you adding clay make sure that you put some in there so that no epoxy can fill the takedown screw). Epoxy the pillar in place.
10. After you have filled the fore-arm and the pillar with epoxy snug the takedown screw a fair bit and leave gun for about three and a half or four hours for the epoxy to dry.
11. After that is done, try taking out the barreled action to make sure that everything can still come out. If everything is all right, put it back in the stock and let it sit for about a day.
12. To bed the rear of the reciever, place enough epoxy in and around the channels (with release agent on) and place barreled action in stock. Let the gun sit for about three and half or four hours again and try taking it out to make sure everything is all right.
12. Give the gun about three days for the glass bedding to completely dry and go shoot it; You should see an improvement in accuracy.
Send me an email at Jordan1022@shaw.ca and I can provide pictures.
This should clear things up
Jordan
skeetgunner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Burlington
Nice post CZ452! Well done summary.
Couple of things I would add:
1. Bases....Power Custom is the way to go!
2. Receiver geometry.....make sure the the receiver flat is...well, flat! If not, file down the hump and then mount the base, torqued to specification.
3. Rings....Burris Signature Zee's for Weaver bases will mate perfectly with the PC base and the inserts are the best for scope mounting.
4. Optics....wide range here
Couple of things I would add:
1. Bases....Power Custom is the way to go!
2. Receiver geometry.....make sure the the receiver flat is...well, flat! If not, file down the hump and then mount the base, torqued to specification.
3. Rings....Burris Signature Zee's for Weaver bases will mate perfectly with the PC base and the inserts are the best for scope mounting.
4. Optics....wide range here
cz452shooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Sparwood, BC
I find that if you are sighted in at 50 yards, the drop at 100 yards with low velocity ammo is about 8 inches, close to 32 clicks and usually about 5.5inches using the high velocity ammo, about 22 clicks. This is assuming you are using a scope with 1/4" clicks.
cz452shooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Sparwood, BC
And MR. Jimbo, just to give you an idea of how my 10/22 will do at 100 yards with a GM barrel here is a target.
10 shots at each
Here is using a more BR style .22 at 100 yards
10 shots at each
Here is using a more BR style .22 at 100 yards
Thane O'Dell
Member
- Location
- 15 min. west of London ON.
Another thing to consider when shooting at 100 yds is the choice of ammo.
Most importantly the ammo must be standard velocity which is usually around
1070 fps muzzle velocity. High velocity ammo will enter the transonic range
around 60-70 yds and there after become unreliable.
Quality in ammo is another consideration. There are lots to choose from. Personaly I like the Lapua brand. My 10/22 with a Lilja barrel and Lapua master will reliably shoot .75" groups at 100 yds. I have done no triger work or bedding although after reading some of what others have done on this site,
I am considering a bedding job.
Thane
Most importantly the ammo must be standard velocity which is usually around
1070 fps muzzle velocity. High velocity ammo will enter the transonic range
around 60-70 yds and there after become unreliable.
Quality in ammo is another consideration. There are lots to choose from. Personaly I like the Lapua brand. My 10/22 with a Lilja barrel and Lapua master will reliably shoot .75" groups at 100 yds. I have done no triger work or bedding although after reading some of what others have done on this site,
I am considering a bedding job.
Thane
cz452shooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Sparwood, BC
Thanks Rod, and good to see you here again, posting in the rimfire secion .
Thanks Goose25: Here is a longer right-up I did back a couple years ago. My grammer wasn't great then so hope you guys can understand everything
Hope my information is accurate
Introduction
I have had my 10/22 for about a month or two now and so far I have been fairly pleased with the accuracy. I could get fairly small groups at 50 yards but I had seen a lot better shooting from people with the same set up. I still had my factory stock laying around so I did a bit of research and after that I found out that a good way to make my 10/22 more accurate would be to glass bed and pillar bed it. I had a revival industries stock on my 10/22 but I decided that I would first try glass bedding and pillar bedding my factory stock because I did not want to wreck my Revival industries stock.
Why Pillar and glass bedding?
So why does pillar and glass bedding improve accuracy? It is generally accepted that glass bedding any rifle should improve accuracy if done right. How much more accurate would depend on the fit between the action and the stock before glass bedding. If it is a real tight fit, maybe glass bedding will not improve accuracy a whole lot, but if it is a loose and sloppy fit, glass bedding will usually make it more accurate. One thing that I noticed about both my factory stock and my Revival Industries Yukon stock was that when I put them into the barreled action, they would just slide right in with no fitting at all required. What glass bedding does is it makes the fit between the stock and the barreled action tighter which in turn which keeps the barrel vibrations the same so that it will not move around in the stock. If the stock is touching the wood when the gun is fired the wood may (will) prevent the barrel from vibrating the same way each shot. While the barrel vibrates a lot with a little (sporter) barrel, believe it or not, the bull barrel still vibrates a little. If the barrel can not vibrate the same every shot, this will cause a change in P.O.I (or point of impact). This is the reason why glass bedding will help to improve accuracy. Another reason is because with bull barrels, if they are free floated, this will cause a lot of stress on the action because it is made of thin aluminum on the 10/22 reciever. However, if you glass bed the stock this will create a spot where the barrel can rest on and not create and stress on the action.
The reason that pillar bedding a stock will help is because when you tighten the takedown screw (or action screw), you are actually squishing some of the wood that is between the stock and the v-block each time. This may not seem like a big deal but actually it can cause a lot of stress on the stock and eventually can remove a lot of wood. With pillar bedding, the action will rest on the pillar instead of the stock which will help spread out the weight. Another reason pillar bedding will help is it will help to retain P.O.I when the stock is reinstalled in the barreled action. You will sometimes notice that after many times of taking you 10/22 apart, that the take-down screw is becoming longer and longer. The reason for this is because each time you are taking down the take-down screw, you are squishing some of the wood underneath. A pillar will prevent this from happening, and in turn will also improve accuracy.
Free floating the stock
So with my factory stock I opened up the barrel channel to just over .920 so that the stock was free floated and then I made some finger groves to add to looks and overall feel. To open up the barrel channel I used 100 grit sand paper. It would have been a fair bit easier to do this with 60 grit sandpaper and finish it off with 400 grit. It would also be fairly easy to use a chisel to open up the barrel channel. Too open up the barrel channel I used a dowel (I found that a broom handle was 7/8 in diameter) as a guide and was constantly checking to see how close I was to achieving getting the barrel channel about .93 - .94” in diameter. This took a fairly long time to do (about 2 hours after everything was done. After glass bedding and pillar bedding you will want the rest of the stock free floated because it prevents the stock from touching the barrel and causing different vibrations.
Taking the finish off
Now that I was done, I noticed that in quite a few places the finish on the stock was scraped off from working on it. After seeing this I decided that I would take the rest of the finish completely off and either stain it or paint it. So I sanded down the finish on it with the 100 grit paper I had until there was little to no varnish left on it. I did a final finish with 400 grit. After looking over the stock a couple of times I noticed how nice the grain on it was and decided that I would use a Semi-transparent stain to stain it. This way I would still see the grain through it. I decided that I wound not finish the stock yet, but instead wait until after I was completely done the glass bedding and pillar bedding.
Preparing the stock
I decided that I was now ready to prepare the stock for glass bedding and the pillar bedding. The first thing I did was make sure that I knew what I was doing and after making sure of that, I prepared my materials. I would first start by getting the barrel channel ready for the stock by scraping out wood. Then I would get the rear of the stock ready and then I would get the pillar ready after that. My materials that I got ready were: A drill, sand-paper and a chisel. Unfortunately I do not have many tools so I was limited to what I used but I think a dremel tool would work great for a lot of this. Since this was my first stock ever glass bedding or pillar bedding I was not quite sure of how to do it completely right but I went ahead and did it. First, I made a small channel about 1/8” deep for bedding about 3 to 3 ½ inches long in front of the barrel lug. I found that the chisel worked well for getting rid of some of this wood. I made the cannel about a 1/8 of an inch deeper than the surrounding wood. I dug out the sides a bit as well all the way up to about ¼ of an inch away from the top of the sides of the stock.
Now that I was done with that, I went ahead and started to make my channel for glass bedding at the rear of the stock. I wanted the channel to be about 1/8 wide and about 1/8 deep but not having any proper tools to complete this, it turned out to be a bit deeper and about ¼ wide. The channel does not have to be completely strait, it can be at a bit of an angle. I found that I had lot of trouble getting the drill bit in the area that I wanted to bed but after a bit it got easier and I finally got it done. The area that I did with the drill turned out to be a bit “zig-zaggy” but I thought that this would be fine. I made the channel at the rear of the receiver (shown in the pictures below) and extended it about ¾ of an inch to an inch, up the side of the receiver. For extra support, I also made a spot about 2 inches up from that about ¾ of an inch long, also seen in the pictures below.
Next step was to prepare the stock for pillar bedding. Although this would seem to be the easiest step, I found it to be one of the hardest because I did not have any proper tools. I was originally planning to use a normal ¾ inch (diameter) by about 1/8" or 1/16” thick but I accidentally made the hole a bit too deep for It so I was forced to use something else. What I finally did was found a washer and a nut and glued them together (glued the washer on top of the nut. The washer was larger in diameter than the nut but it all worked out). This set up worked good for the pillar.
I then ordered the glass bedding kit (wish I had done that before hand)
In the mean time, I decided that I would shoot my 10/22. So I put the my factory stock back on (with the pillar in place but not epoxyed in) and tightened up the take-down screw. With the pillar in place, I could already see a little improvement in the accuracy of it. I was now really getting excited about the “experiment”.
The project begins…
After 2 days of waiting (what seemed like 2 weeks), I finally got my glass bedding kit (brownells acra-glass gel). Along with that order, I also ordered some Burris rings to go with my 10/22. I decided (when I got the kit) That I would first glass bed the pillar and the barrel channel, and after that was completed, I would glass bed the rear of the receiver. The first thing I did was I put masking tape all around the wood that was around the place where I was going to bed. You can see pictures of where I put the masking tape. The next thing I did (very important!!!) is I put the release agent that was included in the kit on all the metal parts that would come in contact with the bedding material. To do this I put three coats to make sure of no mistakes. I would put one coat on with a q-tip and then wait 10 minutes before putting another coat on to ensure that it had proper drying time. I could tell if it was dry by touching it; when it felt dry (which was after about 3 minutes) I left it for another 6 or 7 minutes to make sure that it was completely dry.
My next step was to put modeling clay around the area where I was bedding to make sure that no access bedding would get onto the wood or into the v-block area. I put clay on the v-block, on the other side of the bedding channel, and a little on the underside of the nut and washer that would be used as a pillar. Now that I was confident to start.
Since I had a lot to bed, I made quite a bit of bedding material. I mixed about one and a half tablespoons of each material and gave it a good mix for about 3-4 minutes. After I had finished stirring, I went right ahead and applied the material to the bedding channel. I also covered my pillar in epoxy and put it in the hole. Next, I put the barreled (receiver and barrel only; not the trigger or bolt) in the stock. When I pushed down on the barrel there was some epoxy that had squished out so I snugged the take-down screw and left it.
After about three and a half hours I decided that I would take the barrel off and check to see if everything was going all right. I first tried taking it off and thought “wow” it was sure tight, but after I dropped the gun on cement from about 1/8 of an inch off the ground, it came out (still with some difficulty). Everything looked ok (except for a few cosmetic problems but I was not too worried about them) so I tried putting the barrel back into the stock
The next morning, I got up and started right away to start working on the project. I removed any excess clay and release agent off of the barrel and stock with tooth-picks and to remove the release agent, I just used my nails to peal it off. After cleanup was done,
Bedding the Rear of the reciever
I put three coats of release agent on to (and inside) the receiver. I also filled the trigger group pins and bolt buffer with modeling clay. After that was done, I mixed up my acaraglas gel and tried my best to fill all the holes that I had dug out. I ended up filling the holes and spreading it across where there were no holes as well. After that I put the receiver on and put tape around the back of the receiver and around the forearm of the stock and the barrel and waited for about four and a half hours for the bedding material to dry a bit so I could check if everything was alright. It was fine.
Putting the action back together
After all this was complete, I put the action back together. To do this I first cleaned off the inside of the receiver and then I began to put it back together. To do this I first put the rod back and the bolt handle back in. Once that was done, I pulled back on the handle and the rod until it could not come back anymore. I held the rod in that position and put the bolt carefully in and pushed it down into its “slot”. I then moved the handle back and forth to check if it was working all right and sure enough it was. My next step was to put the trigger group back in. I first put in the front pin; to do this I slid the bolt back and held it there and pushed up on the trigger until the trigger pin holes lined up. I put the front pin in and then after that I put the rear pin in. After this I reinstalled the bolt buffer and put back the magazine. I was now done putting the action together. You may want to do this whole process again to fill in any holes or gaps that you missed the first time. This should make the action/barrel to stock fit even tighter.
Conclusion
Now wait about 3 days for the epoxy to completely dry and go out and shoot it. You should notice a difference. I sure did. My groups definitely got smaller. And most of all, have fun while you’re at it
Hope this helps and free feel to ask any questions
I will be working on the trigger next
I will also try to get some pictures to post on here.
I am not quite finished the project yet. I want to go back and re-glass bed it to fill in some of the gaps that i missed before.
As you can see, its not the nicest looking glass bed job in the world but it worked so i am happy'
I still need to fix it up a bit with a dremel tool or a file but i can do that later...
.Thanks Goose25: Here is a longer right-up I did back a couple years ago. My grammer wasn't great then so hope you guys can understand everything
Hope my information is accurate
Introduction
I have had my 10/22 for about a month or two now and so far I have been fairly pleased with the accuracy. I could get fairly small groups at 50 yards but I had seen a lot better shooting from people with the same set up. I still had my factory stock laying around so I did a bit of research and after that I found out that a good way to make my 10/22 more accurate would be to glass bed and pillar bed it. I had a revival industries stock on my 10/22 but I decided that I would first try glass bedding and pillar bedding my factory stock because I did not want to wreck my Revival industries stock.
Why Pillar and glass bedding?
So why does pillar and glass bedding improve accuracy? It is generally accepted that glass bedding any rifle should improve accuracy if done right. How much more accurate would depend on the fit between the action and the stock before glass bedding. If it is a real tight fit, maybe glass bedding will not improve accuracy a whole lot, but if it is a loose and sloppy fit, glass bedding will usually make it more accurate. One thing that I noticed about both my factory stock and my Revival Industries Yukon stock was that when I put them into the barreled action, they would just slide right in with no fitting at all required. What glass bedding does is it makes the fit between the stock and the barreled action tighter which in turn which keeps the barrel vibrations the same so that it will not move around in the stock. If the stock is touching the wood when the gun is fired the wood may (will) prevent the barrel from vibrating the same way each shot. While the barrel vibrates a lot with a little (sporter) barrel, believe it or not, the bull barrel still vibrates a little. If the barrel can not vibrate the same every shot, this will cause a change in P.O.I (or point of impact). This is the reason why glass bedding will help to improve accuracy. Another reason is because with bull barrels, if they are free floated, this will cause a lot of stress on the action because it is made of thin aluminum on the 10/22 reciever. However, if you glass bed the stock this will create a spot where the barrel can rest on and not create and stress on the action.
The reason that pillar bedding a stock will help is because when you tighten the takedown screw (or action screw), you are actually squishing some of the wood that is between the stock and the v-block each time. This may not seem like a big deal but actually it can cause a lot of stress on the stock and eventually can remove a lot of wood. With pillar bedding, the action will rest on the pillar instead of the stock which will help spread out the weight. Another reason pillar bedding will help is it will help to retain P.O.I when the stock is reinstalled in the barreled action. You will sometimes notice that after many times of taking you 10/22 apart, that the take-down screw is becoming longer and longer. The reason for this is because each time you are taking down the take-down screw, you are squishing some of the wood underneath. A pillar will prevent this from happening, and in turn will also improve accuracy.
Free floating the stock
So with my factory stock I opened up the barrel channel to just over .920 so that the stock was free floated and then I made some finger groves to add to looks and overall feel. To open up the barrel channel I used 100 grit sand paper. It would have been a fair bit easier to do this with 60 grit sandpaper and finish it off with 400 grit. It would also be fairly easy to use a chisel to open up the barrel channel. Too open up the barrel channel I used a dowel (I found that a broom handle was 7/8 in diameter) as a guide and was constantly checking to see how close I was to achieving getting the barrel channel about .93 - .94” in diameter. This took a fairly long time to do (about 2 hours after everything was done. After glass bedding and pillar bedding you will want the rest of the stock free floated because it prevents the stock from touching the barrel and causing different vibrations.
Taking the finish off
Now that I was done, I noticed that in quite a few places the finish on the stock was scraped off from working on it. After seeing this I decided that I would take the rest of the finish completely off and either stain it or paint it. So I sanded down the finish on it with the 100 grit paper I had until there was little to no varnish left on it. I did a final finish with 400 grit. After looking over the stock a couple of times I noticed how nice the grain on it was and decided that I would use a Semi-transparent stain to stain it. This way I would still see the grain through it. I decided that I wound not finish the stock yet, but instead wait until after I was completely done the glass bedding and pillar bedding.
Preparing the stock
I decided that I was now ready to prepare the stock for glass bedding and the pillar bedding. The first thing I did was make sure that I knew what I was doing and after making sure of that, I prepared my materials. I would first start by getting the barrel channel ready for the stock by scraping out wood. Then I would get the rear of the stock ready and then I would get the pillar ready after that. My materials that I got ready were: A drill, sand-paper and a chisel. Unfortunately I do not have many tools so I was limited to what I used but I think a dremel tool would work great for a lot of this. Since this was my first stock ever glass bedding or pillar bedding I was not quite sure of how to do it completely right but I went ahead and did it. First, I made a small channel about 1/8” deep for bedding about 3 to 3 ½ inches long in front of the barrel lug. I found that the chisel worked well for getting rid of some of this wood. I made the cannel about a 1/8 of an inch deeper than the surrounding wood. I dug out the sides a bit as well all the way up to about ¼ of an inch away from the top of the sides of the stock.
Now that I was done with that, I went ahead and started to make my channel for glass bedding at the rear of the stock. I wanted the channel to be about 1/8 wide and about 1/8 deep but not having any proper tools to complete this, it turned out to be a bit deeper and about ¼ wide. The channel does not have to be completely strait, it can be at a bit of an angle. I found that I had lot of trouble getting the drill bit in the area that I wanted to bed but after a bit it got easier and I finally got it done. The area that I did with the drill turned out to be a bit “zig-zaggy” but I thought that this would be fine. I made the channel at the rear of the receiver (shown in the pictures below) and extended it about ¾ of an inch to an inch, up the side of the receiver. For extra support, I also made a spot about 2 inches up from that about ¾ of an inch long, also seen in the pictures below.
Next step was to prepare the stock for pillar bedding. Although this would seem to be the easiest step, I found it to be one of the hardest because I did not have any proper tools. I was originally planning to use a normal ¾ inch (diameter) by about 1/8" or 1/16” thick but I accidentally made the hole a bit too deep for It so I was forced to use something else. What I finally did was found a washer and a nut and glued them together (glued the washer on top of the nut. The washer was larger in diameter than the nut but it all worked out). This set up worked good for the pillar.
I then ordered the glass bedding kit (wish I had done that before hand)
In the mean time, I decided that I would shoot my 10/22. So I put the my factory stock back on (with the pillar in place but not epoxyed in) and tightened up the take-down screw. With the pillar in place, I could already see a little improvement in the accuracy of it. I was now really getting excited about the “experiment”.
The project begins…
After 2 days of waiting (what seemed like 2 weeks), I finally got my glass bedding kit (brownells acra-glass gel). Along with that order, I also ordered some Burris rings to go with my 10/22. I decided (when I got the kit) That I would first glass bed the pillar and the barrel channel, and after that was completed, I would glass bed the rear of the receiver. The first thing I did was I put masking tape all around the wood that was around the place where I was going to bed. You can see pictures of where I put the masking tape. The next thing I did (very important!!!) is I put the release agent that was included in the kit on all the metal parts that would come in contact with the bedding material. To do this I put three coats to make sure of no mistakes. I would put one coat on with a q-tip and then wait 10 minutes before putting another coat on to ensure that it had proper drying time. I could tell if it was dry by touching it; when it felt dry (which was after about 3 minutes) I left it for another 6 or 7 minutes to make sure that it was completely dry.
My next step was to put modeling clay around the area where I was bedding to make sure that no access bedding would get onto the wood or into the v-block area. I put clay on the v-block, on the other side of the bedding channel, and a little on the underside of the nut and washer that would be used as a pillar. Now that I was confident to start.
Since I had a lot to bed, I made quite a bit of bedding material. I mixed about one and a half tablespoons of each material and gave it a good mix for about 3-4 minutes. After I had finished stirring, I went right ahead and applied the material to the bedding channel. I also covered my pillar in epoxy and put it in the hole. Next, I put the barreled (receiver and barrel only; not the trigger or bolt) in the stock. When I pushed down on the barrel there was some epoxy that had squished out so I snugged the take-down screw and left it.
After about three and a half hours I decided that I would take the barrel off and check to see if everything was going all right. I first tried taking it off and thought “wow” it was sure tight, but after I dropped the gun on cement from about 1/8 of an inch off the ground, it came out (still with some difficulty). Everything looked ok (except for a few cosmetic problems but I was not too worried about them) so I tried putting the barrel back into the stock
The next morning, I got up and started right away to start working on the project. I removed any excess clay and release agent off of the barrel and stock with tooth-picks and to remove the release agent, I just used my nails to peal it off. After cleanup was done,
Bedding the Rear of the reciever
I put three coats of release agent on to (and inside) the receiver. I also filled the trigger group pins and bolt buffer with modeling clay. After that was done, I mixed up my acaraglas gel and tried my best to fill all the holes that I had dug out. I ended up filling the holes and spreading it across where there were no holes as well. After that I put the receiver on and put tape around the back of the receiver and around the forearm of the stock and the barrel and waited for about four and a half hours for the bedding material to dry a bit so I could check if everything was alright. It was fine.
Putting the action back together
After all this was complete, I put the action back together. To do this I first cleaned off the inside of the receiver and then I began to put it back together. To do this I first put the rod back and the bolt handle back in. Once that was done, I pulled back on the handle and the rod until it could not come back anymore. I held the rod in that position and put the bolt carefully in and pushed it down into its “slot”. I then moved the handle back and forth to check if it was working all right and sure enough it was. My next step was to put the trigger group back in. I first put in the front pin; to do this I slid the bolt back and held it there and pushed up on the trigger until the trigger pin holes lined up. I put the front pin in and then after that I put the rear pin in. After this I reinstalled the bolt buffer and put back the magazine. I was now done putting the action together. You may want to do this whole process again to fill in any holes or gaps that you missed the first time. This should make the action/barrel to stock fit even tighter.
Conclusion
Now wait about 3 days for the epoxy to completely dry and go out and shoot it. You should notice a difference. I sure did. My groups definitely got smaller. And most of all, have fun while you’re at it
Hope this helps and free feel to ask any questions
I will be working on the trigger next
I will also try to get some pictures to post on here.
I am not quite finished the project yet. I want to go back and re-glass bed it to fill in some of the gaps that i missed before.
As you can see, its not the nicest looking glass bed job in the world but it worked so i am happy
'
I still need to fix it up a bit with a dremel tool or a file but i can do that later...
cz452shooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Sparwood, BC
And here is my latest glass bedding job
