Looking to start reloading shotgun, little bit of stuff, couple questions.

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Pyd

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I am sure this won't take me long to figure out, but I need a bit of help/advice.
A couple years ago I picked up a used MEC 600 jr. I just wiped the dust off of it and downloaded the instruction manual from MEC.
I live very close to a shotgun reloading place in Ancaster, Hummels or something like that.
I am sure if I bring the unit in they will be able to supply me with everything I need, but I was hoping for a brief education from you folks so I don't get lost with terminology.
First, the charging bar. 2 holes, one for shot the other for powder. The instructions do not refer to this part. How do I know how much powder that thing will drop in to the shell? I see a plastic sleeve in the aluminum bar and I am assuming the diameter of that sleeve controls the powder. Are these sold in a set or something? Being a used machine I think I would like to dispose of the plastic sleeve, and buy a new set,if possible.
Shot hole is the same with the exception of the plastic sleeve. Is it missing something?
Basically, I would like to know how to predetermine the shot weight and powder weight. I can not find it in the manual.
I have a Lyman shotshell handbook with recipes, third edition. Should I get something more current?
Thanks.
David.
 
I have to appologize.
I just briefed through the Lyman loading book and found my answers. Everything was in there, even the manual for my MEC re loader.
Thanks anyways!
David.

Ok, I do have one question. When I took the shot jar off there was lead in it, two different sizes, is that common practice?
I just want to make some small game loads.
 
The store is called Hummason. Are you sure it is lead in the container and not steel, or mixed. It is likely lead but I wouldn't assume anything. The recipe for lead shot and steel shot are different. You can find lots of recipes online from the powder suppliers websites. I strongly recommend using a scale to verify your powder drop is correct. There are charts that will suggest what bushing to use for the kind and amount of powder you desire but they only give you a starting point. You must check to see what the actual drop is and go from there. There are also youtube videos that can be quite helpful if you are just starting out.

What gauge do you intend to load?
 
Thank you. It was lead, in the trash now.
I picked up a nice Hornady scale a while back for archery, I do plan to verify everything. I will head to that shop tomorrow if they are open, I would like to do this sooner than later. Did a few huntted dry runs now.
I am very impressed with how much the reloading book has.
 
The Lyman shotshell reloading handbook is the cat's knees for the craft. It blows every other printed reference source on the topic out of the water.

Use only one shot size at a time in the hopper. Anything else is black magic. It might work for something or other, but is more likely detrimental.

Dig a little bit into finding out more about your charge bar. These were made in several versions, I'm not sure what you have.

Originally they were fixed. One bar dropped a fixed load of powder and shot. MEC doesn't support these old bars in any way, they won't give you any info or load data for them. Then they were modified to drop a fixed load of shot but used changeable aluminum bushings to control powder. I've never heard of MEC using plastic bushings, though Lee does. Many bars do have rubber inserts to prevent powder leaks or keep from damaging shot when the bar is thrown. They also make versions with screw adjustments so one bar can be set to throw any charge. It will be fairly important that you figure out what charge bar you have for you to get started.

All in all, you might find the process a tough one to get into right now. Price for lead shot is high and shotgun powders are very hard to find, but your location near a couple of excellent dealers will definitely help.
 
yomomma said:
I hate you......

next time you have lead, dont throw it away. Offer it for free on the EE. Shot is usually high in antimony, something casters look for.

p.s. I really don't hate you but you throwing out lead has made me sad, very sad.
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly!
 
Battlerife, encouraging on the book I have, thanks. Been reading for two days now.

The rest on the lead.. it was not a worthy amount. It wasn't even enough to see in the jar, maybe enough for one small load. If it had value, I would have offered it up. Less than a half oz.
Still have it.. My gun room garbage is emptied only by me. Stamp to mail would be of more value though.
It was the two sizes that stuck out, not the volume.

I am going to need guidance as I get going, not a something for nothing guy.
I am also going to start loading for my hotrod rifles soon, and will need even more help.
So.. to keep in good faith, I have 16ish once fired 30-30 shells, left behind by a buddy. Free to the first one to say they want them. Not a gold mine, but a jesture. Not by PM, too slow for me. I will pm the first guy to say they want them, then send them. No value to me.
 
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The Lee Load all II is a press that is plastic, mec jr600 should have an aluminum charge bar that slides back and forth, the number stamped on the left side specifies how much shot drops. the bushings are numbered aluminum, the book has approx drop rates for the powder that you use. Some can be more or less. Bushings can be obtained from Hummasons along with the powder, primers and shot. First things first, just read, read and read the book over and over till it makes sense.
 
Can anyone give me an idea of cost with reloading material?
I have a re loader but need powder, primers, hulls, wads, shot..
I would like to do some small game stuff, 4 or 5, and perhaps some buckshot.
 
I did not notice what gauge your press is set up for. If it is 12, then loading your own field rounds would be more expensive right now than buying them. I know guys back east who are buying cheap 12ga field rounds merely to cut them open and use the powder and shot for loading their 20ga and .410 loads and my brother does thus for his 16ga. I haven't gotten to that point yet, but it may come if I run out of lead, at least until I start dropping my own shot.
I don't load 12ga field loads, but I do load my own buckshot and slugs.
Good luck in your endeavours.
Ted.
 
Pyd said:
Can anyone give me an idea of cost with reloading material?
I have a re loader but need powder, primers, hulls, wads, shot..
.
Click to expand...

Shot is the big one. Out here I would have to pay something like $55 /25lbs bag. I understand that Ontario guys can get it for about $45. Even so that's 14 cents for 1-1/8 ounces (32g).

Primers will be about 5 cents, wads 2 cents, powder 8 cents. Brings you to $0.29 per shell. Factory game loads are typically $0.30.

There is a reason everybody quit doing it.
 
Great information, thank you.
Looks like I will just mess around with buckshot for a while.
I do have a 12, but my wife's 28 may work out to be more economical. Unfortunatly my MEC will only do you 2 guage.
 
Here's the way the numbers work out for me.

Hummason sells shot for $40 pe r25lb bag. 1 1/8 loads gets you 320 per bag. 12.5c each.
Lawry's has Cheddite 209 primers for $35 per thousand. 3.5c each.
Lawry's has CB-12 wads for $9 per 500 which is just under 2c per wad.

Powder is the big one. Assume an approximately 20 grain load per round, at $30 per pound if you are lucky you are at 8.5c in powder.

You are at 26.5c per round in components alone. That is $6.63 per box of 25... $66.30 for a flat. When I can buy flats for $59 all day long, why would I pay $7 more per flat and have to take the time to load them myself?

When I look in my basement and see more than 20 bags of shot that I paid $19 each for and 8lb kegs of Promo that were $88 each, now it makes sense to reload 12g. With all that said, my components are my "rainy day fund" and I am more than happy to buy Challengers at $59 per flat to shoot.
 
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