loose front sight and flash hider on Norc14

big bear

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I suspect the cure is already discussed somewhere here, just point me in the right direction. After 200rds my groups suddenly open up to 10", can't figure out why, tighten gas plug, no change ,look at front sight, it moves, twist on flash hider, it moves.Not good:confused::(What tools do I need?Thanks
 
You need an allen key to back off the castle nut retaining screw. Then, you advance the castle nut as far as you can (it's probably only loose by one notch, that's all mine was), then retighten the screw.
 
loose sight

I live on the west coast so Ottawa's abit far to go,thanks.I'll just store it till the opportunity to get it fixed arrives:(
 
If you only need to advance the nut by one notch in the castle (60 degrees, I think) you do not need castle nut pliers. A brass drift set into a convenient notch, and a tap hammer are all that are needed to push that sucker where it needs to go.
 
BigBear you live on the wet coast? Are you in the lowermainland??? If so PM me and I have all the tool's you need to get back on your feet.
 
If you only need to advance the nut by one notch in the castle (60 degrees, I think) you do not need castle nut pliers. A brass drift set into a convenient notch, and a tap hammer are all that are needed to push that sucker where it needs to go.
Tried above, twice, things seem to tighten up then comes loose again when I tighten lock screw on front sight? Is there a gun smith in Vancouver know how to fix these things?Should you see any longitudinal slots on end of barrel when flash hider in right place or has it slid forward (always been forward?). Don't ask for pics, I'm old and computer dumb, sorry.Than:confused:ks
 
Tried above, twice, things seem to tighten up then comes loose again when I tighten lock screw on front sight? :ks

Most of these flash suppressors were welded on at the factory, that is why they did not bother to tighten the castle nuts properly. The weld was supposed to be doing the actual work. But, it is a shallow spot weld, and the surfaces were not properly prepped, so most of them are very weak.

With mine, the recoil of about 300 rounds broke the welds, allowing the flash suppressor to wobble. I bet something similar has happened to yours, with the weld only partly broken. Thus, you tighten the screw, removing the slop, but then the remaining weld metal yields a bit further, generating more slop.

Have you completely removed the unit, cleaned out any and all grit and such, and cleaned away any ligaments of metal with a file before checking to see that the unit slides on neatly all the way before bottoming out on the splines? If you do this I think it should tighten up once and for all.
 
Most of these flash suppressors were welded on at the factory, that is why they did not bother to tighten the castle nuts properly. The weld was supposed to be doing the actual work. But, it is a shallow spot weld, and the surfaces were not properly prepped, so most of them are very weak.

With mine, the recoil of about 300 rounds broke the welds, allowing the flash suppressor to wobble. I bet something similar has happened to yours, with the weld only partly broken. Thus, you tighten the screw, removing the slop, but then the remaining weld metal yields a bit further, generating more slop.

Have you completely removed the unit, cleaned out any and all grit and such, and cleaned away any ligaments of metal with a file before checking to see that the unit slides on neatly all the way before bottoming out on the splines? If you do this I think it should tighten up once and for all.
By remove unit you mean the entire flash hider? When reinstalled should the splines on the barrel still be visible? Thanks.
 
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