Loose handguard, does it matter?
- Thread starter chemo
- Start date
I've read of guys putting something in to keep it from rattling and that might be desirable. But, I think what you want to avoid is having it like a wedge between the receiver and the barrel band, nor should it be bearing down on the stock.
Grizzlypeg has it right. You need some clearance between the rear of the lower handgd and face of the receiver(about the thickness of a business card) to accomodate barrel whip/expansion when hot. Ever notice how many tight fitting Garand handgds are cracked behind the handgd clip?
I guess the best case scenario would be that there be no play handguard, but like has been said inconsistent pressure between the receiver and hand guard retention ring will have a negative effect too.
So if you're shooting for accuracy remove the handguard and don't burn yourself or use a quality railed replacement.
So if you're shooting for accuracy remove the handguard and don't burn yourself or use a quality railed replacement.
You guys ready for the cheap fix ? Or do you want the more expensive and permanent fix? 
Frankly, I've shot great groups with rattling handguards, and I've also shot fantastic groups with permanently glued ON handguard!
I guess it all depends who you ask..... I'm hoping that I ain't opening a can of worms...
Barney
Frankly, I've shot great groups with rattling handguards, and I've also shot fantastic groups with permanently glued ON
handguard!I guess it all depends who you ask..... I'm hoping that I ain't opening a can of worms...
Barney
i have just completed the bedding job on the rifle.
also i have changed the springs and the rifle just got unitized. I have also leveled the scope's crosshair for the first time (it was previously eyeballed)
the bedding was damn tight before the paint, now with the new paint it's almost impossible to take apart. racking the op-rod is now like hitting a tuning fork, DING DING DING.
I'll see what this 2.5MOA shooter has become in the following days
also i have changed the springs and the rifle just got unitized. I have also leveled the scope's crosshair for the first time (it was previously eyeballed)
the bedding was damn tight before the paint, now with the new paint it's almost impossible to take apart. racking the op-rod is now like hitting a tuning fork, DING DING DING.
I'll see what this 2.5MOA shooter has become in the following days
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To fix loose/rattling handguards, I use a couple of strips of 1/4" thick foam tape [ for sealing around doors or pickup truck canopies ]. I put this inside the handguards, front and rear, to set them up high against the little tabs on the ferrule, and the c-clip at the barrel.
Others have heated the ferrule tabs to un-temper them, and bent the tabs up a bit.
In either case, the idea is to prevent the handguard from contacting the forend part of the stock INCONSISTENTLY, which could cause some changes in barrel vibration, and stringing of that shot.
As mentioned previously, there should be a tiny bit of back and forth play, to prevent the front of the handguard from binding against the ferrule.
Remember to put a bit of grease between the ferrule bottom tab and the forend metal, to allow the forend to flex during firing. If the forend is properly tensioned to the stock bedding, then "Theoretically" the forend should return to the same place after every shot, increasing accuracy.
All this complicated forend/ferrule/handguard/cearancing/tesioning mechanism can be avoided by "free floating" the front of the barrel by mounting the op rod gude soldily to the stock.
More to come about this concept later.
LAZ 1
Others have heated the ferrule tabs to un-temper them, and bent the tabs up a bit.
In either case, the idea is to prevent the handguard from contacting the forend part of the stock INCONSISTENTLY, which could cause some changes in barrel vibration, and stringing of that shot.
As mentioned previously, there should be a tiny bit of back and forth play, to prevent the front of the handguard from binding against the ferrule.
Remember to put a bit of grease between the ferrule bottom tab and the forend metal, to allow the forend to flex during firing. If the forend is properly tensioned to the stock bedding, then "Theoretically" the forend should return to the same place after every shot, increasing accuracy.
All this complicated forend/ferrule/handguard/cearancing/tesioning mechanism can be avoided by "free floating" the front of the barrel by mounting the op rod gude soldily to the stock.
More to come about this concept later.
LAZ 1
