The upper hand stock on my M1 has a little free-play and I was wondering if it is supposed to be like that, or should it be tight? When I dissasembled it, I noticed that when when I reassembled it (was loose before), and put the gas cylinder back on, followed by the lock and screw, the cylinder did not push the stock back all of the way. Is there any way to tighten this up?
lose Garand upper hand stock
- Thread starter berger
- Start date
Garand Fore End Fit
Berger
See my post on this topic. I have twin ex-Danish Springfield-made Garands.
One is 'tight', fitted that way by a 'smith who did work for the BCRA types.
The other has a 'loose' fore end.
The 'loose' rifle outshoots the 'tight' one significantly. One of the magic tricks of Garand tuning is to have that clearance as the rifle heats up. If it's tight to begin with, stresses will occur where you don't want them.
If your rifle is grouping well, it's not a problem. I've seen some pretty sloppy M1's consistently group 3-4" at 100 yds with the standard GI sights and no other work.
Todd
Berger
See my post on this topic. I have twin ex-Danish Springfield-made Garands.
One is 'tight', fitted that way by a 'smith who did work for the BCRA types.
The other has a 'loose' fore end.
The 'loose' rifle outshoots the 'tight' one significantly. One of the magic tricks of Garand tuning is to have that clearance as the rifle heats up. If it's tight to begin with, stresses will occur where you don't want them.
If your rifle is grouping well, it's not a problem. I've seen some pretty sloppy M1's consistently group 3-4" at 100 yds with the standard GI sights and no other work.
Todd
loose is the way the US military sets them up for use, also absolutely neecessary for match shooting.
what is almost as important is to have a strong clamping action between the triggerguard assembly and the stock of the rifle. My own is shimmed with a strip along each side taken from a (shock!) cigarette pack. Works just fine.
if the gas cylinder assembly gets loose, as it will from time to time, you can remove it and slightly (accent SLIGHTLY) pein the splines on the barrel, then tap the gas cylinder back almost to its final position, use the gas cylinder lock to get it to its final position. do it like this and it should shoot.
forget fancy sights...... just put the back sight out 2 clicks (the front sight is 4 minutes wide) and aim with the CORNER of the sight.
My own rifle is set up like this and it will shoot half a minute if you can hold it, sandbags of course.
most important of all: have fun.
what is almost as important is to have a strong clamping action between the triggerguard assembly and the stock of the rifle. My own is shimmed with a strip along each side taken from a (shock!) cigarette pack. Works just fine.
if the gas cylinder assembly gets loose, as it will from time to time, you can remove it and slightly (accent SLIGHTLY) pein the splines on the barrel, then tap the gas cylinder back almost to its final position, use the gas cylinder lock to get it to its final position. do it like this and it should shoot.
forget fancy sights...... just put the back sight out 2 clicks (the front sight is 4 minutes wide) and aim with the CORNER of the sight.
My own rifle is set up like this and it will shoot half a minute if you can hold it, sandbags of course.
most important of all: have fun.
