Low Profile Gas block

greentips

greentips

Administrator
Moderating Team
Rating - 100%
261   0   0
Location
Pluton
Ok, I don't use low profile gas block so my experience with these are extremely limited -

so what are the experiences out there - Vltor, Troy, Stag, YHM, Larue...pros and cons?

My take is that they all look the same - so there appears to be no point of buying the expensive ones since it is hiding under something anyways.
 
I bought a VLTOR one a few years ago, and it languished in my box 'o' parts until I built the gun. Then it I find out it won't fit under a Larue rail because it clamps via screws on the side. I should have bought the one that clamps from underneath.
 
Larue blocks are really solid and super low profile. If you have a Larue rail it will fit over the block and you can take off the rail if you ever want to without removing the block. The Larue block will cover the entire gas block seat where the original FSB was too, which is nice if it's not park'd under the FSB.

The recent Troy and Vltor ones look nice.

IMO, I would avoid the clamp blocks. They are really bulky and may not fit under anything but some HUGE tube like wilson or yhm. They don't seem very secure either... Set screws and barrel dimples are the best short of pinning, imho.
 
The Larue block is big, so that may either be a plus or a minus depending upon your anticipated setup.

DO NOT USE ALUMINUM

Use rockset to seal the block to the barrel, and the gas tube in the block.
Pin on if possible.
 
Nothing wrong with it at all, but I've destroyed a bunch trying to do that since my skill with a Bridgeport mill is ass...

I know a dremel would work, but I like the idea of making nice clean cuts that are uniform for aesthetics. So I end up getting guys in our model shop to do them for me...
 
Like suggested above cutting your original is best becasue you get to use the original taper pins.

I would say the next best ones are the ones that you dimple the barrel and set screw to tighten and 3rd best would be clamp ons. Im not sure what rockset is that KevinB sugested but I used Loctite 380 Black Max inbetwen the clamp and barrel and all around the joints,set screws and its very solid.
 
KevinB said:
Nothing wrong with it at all, but I've destroyed a bunch trying to do that since my skill with a Bridgeport mill is ass...

I know a dremel would work, but I like the idea of making nice clean cuts that are uniform for aesthetics. So I end up getting guys in our model shop to do them for me...
Click to expand...

I gave it a shot. Dremel, angle grinder and bbq paint. Looks okay, but I'd like to get a rifle length tube to cover it up.

IMG_0693Medium-1.jpg
 
there was a decent how to guide on ARF about cutting down the factory block.

Kevin what is the rockset stuff you mentioned some type of glue?
 
I used a Larue on my CMMG 16 inch middy. Dimpled the barrel, used locktight on the set screws then I cross drilled it for a roll pin. That ain't moving. The Larue will work with most free float rails out there. I am running a Midwest one on my 10.3 Stag. Same profile as the Larue and it covers the area where the taper pins were for a clean look. It was half the price of a Larue from Brownells. I have used many different blocks, but the Larue is the best if you can find one that is. Cutting down your front sight works well too. I did this to a brand new never fired Stag a few years ago. I think the thread is still kicking around on here. Oh the controversy that caused!
YMMV,
Hoddie
 
http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=2036

We sold 350 some odd of our Low Profile Gas blocks to a US mil customer who is converting M4A1's and Mk18's to the DD RISII. Someone at Crane erroneously identifies us as the Gas Block on the Mk12 Mod1 rifle, (its Badger Ordnance) so as much as we tell units the Badger is the one they are talking about, they are using ours to good effect (this is NOT the gas block from the SR15E3 Carbine)
 
KevinB said:
Use rockset to seal the block to the barrel, and the gas tube in the block.
Pin on if possible.
Click to expand...

Is this the stuff that you find around the gas block of the SR-15 E3 IWS? I saw some residue around the gas block when it was new but I wasn't sure what it was.
 
KevinB said:
roger that.

We do it on all of our guns, it helps the seal, making the gun run more reliably.
Click to expand...

That's good to know what it was. To tell you the truth, I was a little bit worried about having set screws instead of pins at first, but things are running fine so far.
 
Material, concentricity of the block, and sometimes look due to machine time and care taken building them.

Our low profile not for sale commercially, as we went to the rougher and bulkier version for the SR15E3.

For the money I think the Larue is about the best option if the OAL of the block does not cause you issues (think stupid short barrels)
 
I have used the Vltor / PRI / Badger with the set screw ( don't like the clamp on version of the Vltor )

If gas block is under handguard and your rifle us just a toy:

Bare minimum you need to dimple the barrel for the set screw. There are tools available or just use a transfer punch / mill / drill press

For added assurance you can use Rocksett . Not easy to find in Canda but has a much higher temp rating than "shaft retaining" adhesives such as Loctite 620/638 retaining compound which is rated at 450degF. Despite the relatively low max temp, the shear strength of these products are significantly higher than Rocksett. I have seen 638 attach shafts to hubs / pullys that are under serious rotational torque

IF gas block is exposed :

then a dowel pin for added assurance is the way to go. Only issue with this method is the barrel / gas block are paired for life since it is highly unlikely you can get a new gas block drilled in the perfect spot as the hole in the barrel. The Noveske barrels use a Vltor set screw gas block that is also fitted with a dowel pin. Make damn sure that your gas block is properly aligned before drilling !

Much easier with the dilling jigs available for the Vltor style.

I think the the Vltor / Stage / Pri / Badger etc are all good blocks ...they are all kinda clones of each other. The PRI is available in the larger .936 for bull barrels . I prefer the look of the Vltor since the gas tube hole is blind drilled you you don't have a hole when looking from the front like the others.

The only thing with this style is they are not long enough to cover the scars from a FSB style gas block

Some like the Samson are extended to cover the scars

Hope this helps
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom