Low tech grease for M14 or hi tech lubes?

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LeftFootOfDoom

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Another question for the M14 gurus here. I downloaded Hungry's videos and read up on skullboys stickies, and give props to these gentlemen for generously helping out the masses. My question is in regards to lubricants. I realize that the m14 and its cleaning products were devised in the 50's. So I ask, is using the low tech grease written in stone or will modern lubes like CLP with the teflon and such mixed in be suitable?

I myself love the clp and use it on all my toys. But i did follow hungry's advice and got some wheel bearing grease for 3 bucks.
 
I use plain old lithium grease for the sliding parts. I put in new stuff every time I clean the rifle so it's not like it has to last and last and last.
 
I have been using "Super Lube" for everything, which is available in various formulas. It is basicly clear so is clean to handle, synthetic with a huge temp range and just a bit more $ than the usual. Does not wash off easily and best of all appears to lube very well. This is made by Synco.

Ian
 
Leftfootofdoom:

I decided to try that "higher tech" approach one year. I bought an ounce of Plastilube, a synthetic grease developed for the aircraft industry to prevent galvanic corrrosion (electron transfer between 2 metals).

That 2 oz. jar is still sitting on my shelf. It cost me $ 8.00 USD and with exchange (back in 1986) cost me a bit over $ 10.00 CDN. Who's the dummy now? <--- Quote from Major Payne

I use that jar of Plastilube for my M14 clinics to inform people NOT what to do.

All of you are correct with your suggestions of grease. Frankly, I am on record for closing the grease issue with "USE ANY grease, it's better than NO grease." On that note, the cheapest grease is the best because you can look like a hero on the firing line by giving out free grease, after the shooters pay you $ 2.00 for the curved tip syringe found at Lee Valley Tools.

Now what is the best grease ? All depends on your shooting conditions. Tiriaq will be the first to agree with me that grease(s) may not benefit your M14 at -30 below in Iqualluit (sp?). Many of you back from the sandbox will agree that the grease(s) are NFG (no good) if they attract that fine talcum like powdered dust all over Iraq and Asskrakistan.

Now those extreme conditions aside, for most of us weekend warriors, I like a grease that stays put. I prefer it to be cheap so that I can top up my syringes easily without wiping gooey popsicle sticks all over the workbench. I prefer a pointy tube applicator (syringe top up) to fit inside the syringe. I like a grease that is visibly easy to confirm it's presence on the firing line before my "Preparation Time" begins... you competitors will appreciate where I'm coming from.

I actually prefer Plastilube for my trigger sear interface since this synthetic grease stays put no matter what the (warm/hot) temperature. I end up with a smoother trigger pull this way. I said, "Smoother trigger pull." I did not say , "Lighter trigger pull".

Now with your curved tip syringes, go and enlighten all the new M14 owners at your ranges and tell them that cheap bastard, Hungry sent you. LOL

Peace B2 Journey,

Barney
 
Ian Robertson said:
I have been using "Super Lube" for everything, which is available in various formulas. It is basicly clear so is clean to handle, synthetic with a huge temp range and just a bit more $ than the usual. Does not wash off easily and best of all appears to lube very well. This is made by Synco.

Ian
Click to expand...

+1.:D

I have been using Superlube on my M14s for years.

I also use it on my bolt action bolt lugs.

SKBY.
 
Thanks guys. Now i got to get some of those lee valley syringes!

If and when these new M14s come in Hungry, I'm sure there will be many requests for you to hold another clinic shortly there after. I'd definitely like to attend one IF you ever do it.
 
I am using a canister of AeroShell Grease 17 (400g) that I got from work.

'AeroShell Grease 17 is an extreme pressure multipurpose grease recommended for heavily loaded sliding steel surfaces where protection against seizure and corrosion is desired: e.g. bogie pivot pins on jet aircraft landing gear assemblies. It is made with synthetic diester base oil, molybdenum disulfide and Microgel non-melting inorganic thickener, which provides outstanding anti-friction bearing lubrication. It has a useful temperature range of -100 F to +300 F.'

Should be o.k.
 
Interesting how people will go on about grease, simple things.....

I was using Super Lube on linear bearings which were subject to a lot of fiberglass dust from the stock making business. Every so often I have to clean them out and the Super Lube was a bugger to remove (including the dirt). I use an ultrasonic cleaner and varsol as the races are held in a plastic holder which I don't want to destroy with other solvents. Anyway I no longer use Super Lube in these bearings. I use cheap wheel bearing grease which washes out easily taking the dirt with it. In this case I think easy washout is more important than the ability to lube. Varsol does not disolve the Super Lube.
Therefore if you are takng a gun into nasty conditions it is probably better to use lots of lube which is easier to wash out and replace than some super tech stuff.

I think Super Lube grease is about $12 for a full size tube to go into a grease gun. Enough to grease one big pile of guns.
 
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Don't use any lube with moly disulfide in it on any type of roller, ball or needle bearing. The moly actually causes the finish on the balls or rollers to spall (chip) over time. Moly is meant for sliding type applications, which means it will work good on a m-305 except for the bolt roller bearing.

It migrates very easy, I would stick to a synthetic for a m-305, with no moly.
 
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