X2. There is a right and wrong way to apply the product. Most of us are lazy, and will just wipe it on a gun, no prep.
Lube Failure
- Thread starter Ganderite
- Start date
X2. There is a right and wrong way to apply the product. Most of us are lazy, and will just wipe it on a gun, no prep.
I've never and will never use graphite. It only has lubricating properties at low pressure and velocity. The kicker? It becomes an abrasive in high pressure/velocity applications. Dry lubes are boundary lubricants. They do very well when added to certain film lubricants in the right applications. That does not mean they are so good as to be used as a standalone lubricant for anything more than door hinges. They also have no corrosion resistance due to their lack of a film to seal out moisture and oxygen, instead they hold moisture, slowing any evaporation while its open to the air. They also wipe away and do not migrate. Once an area burns through the dry lube it is not lubricated until more is applied. Oils will migrate back into areas to keep them lubed longer. Just some info for those that still think graphite or other dry lubes are good for your guns.
OK genius, the tests are not done in the RCMP lab, but by a number of their armorers - one of which I had coffee with recently and he informed me of the process. It would seem that there is a very fine line between being a good lubricant at ridiculous temperatures and also being a good protector of metal. Apparently these two things don't always go hand in hand. In the testing process, the G96 was superior at both these things as they have a a formula that walks the line balancing a lot of the noted variables. I have used G96 synthetic a lot and it has never let me down. Even in bitterly cold temperatures. I have also used the stuff at shoots where I have sent 4-500 rounds downrange through my 5946 over a very short period of time. It just works, at least in cop applications on the bitter cold prairies.
That being said, I have also used synthetic 0w40 DMO and found it to stick around at hot temps and still work like a champ at cold temperatures. It is way cheaper than any gun-specific oil out there too. The high detergent rating in the DMO also helps in moving the carbon along too.
My $.02. Your mileage may vary.
I was just kidding friend, just a joke. I'm sure the RCMP knows lots about lube, not as much as the navy but I digress. Again just jokes
I currently don't own an ar15 but I'd say I have a fairly extensive experience with them in the cf . Ive shot the c7 from plus 30 in Manitoba to -50 yes a real no windchill factor -50 in Nunavut. We only used clp but obviously ran dry (or close to it) in -50. Now I dunno if c7's just run better than civi ar's or what but I've never seen a lube related problem other than while firing blanks, and me and 14 other guys on a cqb course fired 5000 rounds each on the dot in one day with one minor cleaning at lunch and few squirts of clp thought the day. No mal functions
That being said I've just been using outters gun oils at home and have yet to be let down. I might give the g96 a try out since it seems to be highly rated here by you guys.
Edit - I'm using the ar just as an example as it seems to be the most prone to lube issues. As well it's the only rifle I've used in such extremes
Last edited:
I had my Mossy 590A1 treated with Froglube fail today at the range. It was 3C at the time. Pulled the trigger and it was pretty stiff. About 1 sec later, there's a quiet and sluggish "c l i c k" but no primer strike on the shell. Tried a few more times and same. Brought her home and it was pretty sluggish still. I'm noticing that Froglube tends to dry out quicker than other CLPs I've used in the past and get's pretty gummy when it does. I usually wipe down the parts after treated with the paste and liquid. Guess the moving parts where I put a small drop of lube and not able to wipe it off is to blame.
I haven't used my shotty in 4wks. The last time it worked without a hiccup. My AR worked perfectly and that was treated with Froglube as well, though the trigger felt a little bit heavier than normal at the start until she warmed up.
I haven't used my shotty in 4wks. The last time it worked without a hiccup. My AR worked perfectly and that was treated with Froglube as well, though the trigger felt a little bit heavier than normal at the start until she warmed up.
digitalblue
CGN Regular
- Location
- GTA unfortunately
I personally use the lowest temp wheel bearing grease(lithium grease) I can find.
In conjunction with G96 for trigger groups(and other precision parts), I've never had any malfunctions with any of my guns.
While lube technology has improved in the last few decades, I'm somewhat reluctant to believe that they're really worth +300% cost over conventional lubes that most people have been using over the last half century(Machine grease, machine oil, etc)
In conjunction with G96 for trigger groups(and other precision parts), I've never had any malfunctions with any of my guns.
While lube technology has improved in the last few decades, I'm somewhat reluctant to believe that they're really worth +300% cost over conventional lubes that most people have been using over the last half century(Machine grease, machine oil, etc)
I use the gun treatment spray can. Once the gun is treated with this stuff carbin just wipes off. If cleaning a firearm that hasn't been treated then use a real cleaner like Hoppes first. After that use the G96. You won't need to use the Hoppes again. It should also be noted that this stuff is a metal conditioner. It gets into the pours. I use it on the entire gun. Stops rust and corrosion. On an AR spray everything down including the parkarized exterior. It will help prevent scratches as well as added protection.
I use the Shell Rotella 0W40 synthetic diesel oil on the AR bolt and interior of the action. Or on a bolt action bolt along with any areas of wear such as rails etc. Also if storing for an extended period of time I'll wipe some on the exterior as well. But generally I prefer G96 on the exterior.
If extreme cold the G96 on it's own works just fine. Good for duty carry in sub -50. Also keeps exterior holster wear down for pistols.
Gunnerlove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Quality lube is cheap and if you are willing to drop $200+ in ammo in an afternoon, a few drops of the good stuff is easy to justify.
No problem. I should add that I wouldn't hesitate to try their CLP for AR bolts. It received approval from the US military. I transferred to a warmer climate about a year or so after that so never tried it out.
I should add I've used the regular CLP from break free and it wasn't even a distant second to the G96. Plus G96 doesn't smell like Dexter Morgan is having a BBQ while the CLP did.
Gunnerlove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Above is one of the reasons I first switched to Slip, they say it is non toxic and it is odourless.
Regardless of how well Militec works (poorly according to tests) I stopped using it due to the burnt hair smell it gives off when hot.
Regardless of how well Militec works (poorly according to tests) I stopped using it due to the burnt hair smell it gives off when hot.
From what I am reading here sounds like the people having trouble with FL are having it with the FL Liquid, not the paste.
I was at a match just two weeks ago were two people had issues out in the cold with their firearms (Shotgun and AR-15) and both had used FL Liquid. I wrote a post on here some time ago about the issues with FL.
Personally I never had an issue with the paste when applied properly but I did have issues with the liquid resulting my selling all my FL products and changing to Archoil. I have never looked back, never had an issue out in the cold.
Personally I like Archoil, its practically odourless, non toxic and my firearms feel extremely slick after application. Carbon does not stick, the load ramps wipe clean very easily. They have a CLP, an LP and a grease, but hey that's just my own opinion which just happens to be shared by some serious competition shooters. I also like that it can be used practically dry.
Now I read in this thread that dry lubes are bad, and I totally agree with the comments about dry lubricants like graphite however there are new technology lubricants that apply wet and can be wiped dry leaving a hard, slick and protective film, Archoil is one of these albeit I don't run my firearms completely dry but I do wipe 95% or more of the product off.
Anyway as I say, just throwing in my 2 cents for what its worth. Oh yeah I have also used G96 and never had an issue with it but as much as I liked the smell others in the house did not appreciate it
Site sponsor, Select Shooting Supplies
I have been using both Archoil biodegradable grease and lubricant for a while now and am completely happy with the lubrication properties and cleanup. I shoot a minimum of twice a week practicing for Defensive Pistol and Three Gun plus my matches and have had zero problems.
I actually do it the laziest way possible. Small crock pot on "keep warm" setting half full of frog lube. It's a mix of paste and liquid. Throw new or cleaned parts in when the paste is warm liquid. Eat a sammich. Watch TV for a while. Remove warm parts and lay them on a shop towel. Have a beer. Wipe parts. Done.
After that it's just a wipe down to clean. I don't leave any excess and stuff stays slick. No odd wear marks or anything.
Really?
I was taught long ago in the military to use NO lube in the arctic.
None. No oil, no grease, don't even breathe on moving parts.
In sub-zero temps the relative humidity is 0% and as such the danger of rust is zilch.
I was taught long ago in the military to use NO lube in the arctic.
None. No oil, no grease, don't even breathe on moving parts.
In sub-zero temps the relative humidity is 0% and as such the danger of rust is zilch.
