Lubricating Auto-5 Magazine Tube
- Thread starter mosinmaster
- Start date
Maritime Storm
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Riverview, NB
Browning says to use a few drops of oil on the tube then wipe it off.
I have used a very light grease and G96 Gun Treatment (very little) on the outside of the tube for about 45 years now... never had a problem in doing that... If you get failures to feed or eject a dry may tube is usually the problem if the friction pieces are set correctly.
What damage might that be ?
A mechanism that relies on friction to brake the barrel motion is not going to work as well if you lubricate it excessively, resulting in a bigger impact on the receiver.
PinkyPlinker
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kenora, ON
Function affected, you would be preloading the spring
http://https://www.browning.com/support/frequently-asked-questions/how-do-i-change-the-rings-on-my-auto-5.html
Doesnt answer your question, but some information for you none the less.
Sorry, do not know an answer to your question.
Rob
You can put them in your pocket, but may lose them.
I store them under the mag tube spring.
Haven't had an issue with my 3" mag A-5.
Plus, they're there when and if you need them.
The light setting is for 2 3/4 loads and ALL steel shot. So unless your shooting 3" lead loads, set it up for light loads and put the remaining rings somewhere safe at home. I've got a 69 Magnum, and have had it set up like this for years....ducks (2 3/4 & 3" steel), geese (3" steel), upland, trap (won't eject trap loads even on light setting, but it's one shot at a time so it's ok).
These are beautiful quality guns...if you think you are risking damage by doing something like placing the extra rings at the receiver, then don't do it.
- Location
- Southern Vancouver Island
Here's pics on the setup of the A5. On my ones I've always cleaned & lubed the components with Jet Lube 12/34. Never an issue.
Folks that run shortened barrels (18.5 - 21")on their A5's will find it best to leave the friction assembly on the heavy setting as the barrel speed
in recoil is increased due to the reduction of barrel weight. My 19" barreled unit ejected trap loads just dandy.
Folks that run shortened barrels (18.5 - 21")on their A5's will find it best to leave the friction assembly on the heavy setting as the barrel speed
in recoil is increased due to the reduction of barrel weight. My 19" barreled unit ejected trap loads just dandy.
Attachments
mosinmaster
CGN frequent flyer
Thanks will store them separately.
Also when tightening down the magazine nut, I depress the barrel and tighten it down until it can’t tighten further, then release tension on the barrel. Is this the right way? Or can this eventually stress the forearm and crack it? Should I do the same way but back off the magazine cap one detent click? I’ve had the magazine cap get stuck in the past I believe due to the forearm swelled so I’ve been trying the one detent back off to prevent this while in storage. But should I tighten it all the way for shooting?
Should I store the gun with the barrel off and the spring uncompressed?
And where can I buy a magazine cap with sling stud?
Last edited:
You can purchase just the stud and then drill your cap.
Butler Creek/Uncle Mikes etal I beleaf sell the studs.
WTB in the EE.
If you are really conserned 'bout yer spring, take the bawrill off.
Lubrication allows the barrel with it's accompanying rings to move on the magazine tube. The rings act as a brake system to slow movement of the barrel. When too much lube is used it allows the barrel to move at a higher speed and force. The part that stops the barrel on it's return is the forearm, in some cases that real pretty, really expensive wood forearm. Cracking and/or compression of the wood is common.
If the friction pieces are set for light loads and heavy loads are fired, the barrel will definitely move at a higher speed and force... but I doubt there is much difference between a lubed barrel and an over lubed barrel ... in my experience I don't know how you could over lube the metal magazine tube...
