luepold vx 3 issues??

Buckmastr said:
The tubes on these fake leupolds are too big to be mounted in 1" rings without squashing the tube.

Lots of these counterfit Leupolds around now. A vx3i 4-14 is worth nearly 900$ whereas a fake you can buy for 50-100$

My opinion is that this one is fake too.

https://www.corlanes.com/kimber-89-270-win-w-leupold-45-14x40-scope-c-3815.html
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I think it was more the type of rings,that caused this.
Those dents are on the side of the tube.
The rings only had screws on one side
 
Recce21 said:
1000% not the scopes fault
Scopes don't just "lose zero" and the VX-3 has very solid internals
My money is on ring/base issue (ESPECIALLY if you have maxed out windage), then a gun issue (action screws/harmonics/receiver) and finally if none of that is the issue then a shooter issue.
People underestimate the amount of shift caused by even a slightly loose base. 1 thousandth of movement equals 1 MOA of shift.
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A lot of assumptions in this post......1000% not the scopes fault? Leupold already admitted there was in fact a problem the first time...So there goes your 1000% theory.....
 
Just had a chance to look at this thread again..


Someone nailed it on this thread.. I really just wondered if anyone else experienced this before and what could possibly cause it.. I just wanted to learn and understand what might have happened on my scope. I'm not really well read on scopes and how they work, how they fail etc.. I just wanted to add to my knowledge base.

I'm beyond happy with Korth and leupold.. Couldn't ask for anything more from them in their service and warranty.

If anyone is still reading this post, I should have added the rings are Talley light weight one peice rings on the gun right now. It's the same rings I used when the scope was working flawlessly for the first years I owned it. Could the rings fail? What would I look for aside from a obvious crack?

I had a friend tell me to just tighten the rings by hand until tight. Said he's done that for years and never had a issue. I'm often an over thinker and perfectionist so that's why i bought the fat wrench. Just an added layer of protection to damaging the scope and to ensure it's tight to manufuctur specs. Is the Fat Wrench a known bad toqrue wrench? If thats the case, whats a better wrench?


thanks!
 
oldspice said:
Just had a chance to look at this thread again..


Someone nailed it on this thread.. I really just wondered if anyone else experienced this before and what could possibly cause it.. I just wanted to learn and understand what might have happened on my scope. I'm not really well read on scopes and how they work, how they fail etc.. I just wanted to add to my knowledge base.

I'm beyond happy with Korth and leupold.. Couldn't ask for anything more from them in their service and warranty.

If anyone is still reading this post, I should have added the rings are Talley light weight one peice rings on the gun right now. It's the same rings I used when the scope was working flawlessly for the first years I owned it. Could the rings fail? What would I look for aside from a obvious crack?

I had a friend tell me to just tighten the rings by hand until tight. Said he's done that for years and never had a issue. I'm often an over thinker and perfectionist so that's why i bought the fat wrench. Just an added layer of protection to damaging the scope and to ensure it's tight to manufuctur specs. Is the Fat Wrench a known bad toqrue wrench? If thats the case, whats a better wrench?


thanks!
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I had an '06 with Talley Lightweights. In my opinion they are a phenomenal ring setup...I loved them. When I sold the rifle I pulled the scope off to find that the rear ring was actually loose from the receiver. Rifle still shot sub-MOA which is a testament to the quality of the Burris Signature scope I was using. I doubt the rings are to blame.

I don't know much about the FAT wrench...I went to a local tool store and bought a Jet torque wrench which has performed flawlessly. That being said, if the Wheeler was no good I suspect we would have heard a lot of screeching out of the States because they've sold a pile of them over the years. Always a good idea to use some form of torque wrench as it removes one variable from the equation.

I think you can just chalk this up to a scope going hinky on you. The fact that it worked well after it weas fixed and then started acting up again is odd, but not outside the realm of possibility. Maybe an internal spring went bad, who knows. I wouldn't worry about it now. Just enjoy the new glass.
 
Canuck525 said:
A lot of assumptions in this post......1000% not the scopes fault? Leupold already admitted there was in fact a problem the first time...So there goes your 1000% theory.....
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Korth didn't admit anything. They elected to replace the scope because that is less aggravation than dealing with a customer that keeps sending in a perfectly working scope claiming that it is broken. Sending in a scope with maxed out ANYTHING is a smoking gun for user error. But thanks for coming out sport.
 
oldspice said:
I had a friend tell me to just tighten the rings by hand until tight. Said he's done that for years and never had a issue. I'm often an over thinker and perfectionist so that's why i bought the fat wrench. Just an added layer of protection to damaging the scope and to ensure it's tight to manufuctur specs. Is the Fat Wrench a known bad toqrue wrench? If thats the case, whats a better wrench?
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Never let a friend hand tighten scope rings. ESPECIALLY if they claim to have done it for years. The Fat Wrench is okay but has known torque issues such as losing its calibration if stored under tension so always return it to "zero" Buy a pair of "Fix-It-Sticks" and you know your torques are bang on the money.
 
BigUglyMan said:
I had an '06 with Talley Lightweights. In my opinion they are a phenomenal ring setup...I loved them. When I sold the rifle I pulled the scope off to find that the rear ring was actually loose from the receiver. Rifle still shot sub-MOA which is a testament to the quality of the Burris Signature scope I was using. I doubt the rings are to blame.

I don't know much about the FAT wrench...I went to a local tool store and bought a Jet torque wrench which has performed flawlessly. That being said, if the Wheeler was no good I suspect we would have heard a lot of screeching out of the States because they've sold a pile of them over the years. Always a good idea to use some form of torque wrench as it removes one variable from the equation.

I think you can just chalk this up to a scope going hinky on you. The fact that it worked well after it weas fixed and then started acting up again is odd, but not outside the realm of possibility. Maybe an internal spring went bad, who knows. I wouldn't worry about it now. Just enjoy the new glass.
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Part of the reason I posted my thread was to see if it's not uncommon to have a scope issue repaired and have it happen again.. I was also unable to read the repair sheet that came with it when it was mailed back to me... I was curious if someone here would say something like, if its doing the same thing after repair its most liekly due to the ### component in the scope.. didn't happen
 
Recce21 said:
Korth didn't admit anything. They elected to replace the scope because that is less aggravation than dealing with a customer that keeps sending in a perfectly working scope claiming that it is broken. Sending in a scope with maxed out ANYTHING is a smoking gun for user error. But thanks for coming out sport.
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You sound intelligent and knowledgeable, ......[edited].....

Your assuming a lot of things..

I've only sent the scope in once.. not "dealing with a customer who keeps sending in a perfectly working scope claiming its broken"..

I'm sure they don't want to just hand out 1000$ scopes when there's a possiblity the scope if fine... Would they not open it up to see if its damaged before sending a new one?

I'm not sure if you read, but the cross hairs kept dropping after each shot.. The side to side never moved.. Is it possible that someone was broken in the scope? I am not an expert, but you'd think if it was rings, the side to side would also move?
 
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Send it back and tell them the previous repair did not fix the problem. They will likely replace the scope. They aren't handing out 1000$ scopes, they are honouring leupolds fully transferable, no time limit, lifetime warranty.
 
Buckmastr said:
Send it back and tell them the previous repair did not fix the problem. They will likely replace the scope. They aren't handing out 1000$ scopes, they are honouring leupolds fully transferable warranty.
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It's being sent back here shortly.. They already agreed to replace it.
 
Maxing out adjustments is bad news; and yes, maxing out the windage can affect the elevation. I’m glad Korth/Leupold is giving you a new scope; confidence is an expensive thing in ammo costs to earn. Its also hard to earn back once its shattered.

My concern is that you’ll put the new scope on and do the same thing again. Maxed out adjustments scream mounting/alignment issues.
 
I agree, its probably not a scope problem exactly but the scope is being tormented by poorly aligned scope rings.

I would focus my energy on correcting that ring alignment problem so the scope centers up better.

No scope likes to live at the limits of its travel where erector tube springs are either fully compressed or fully relaxed.

When fully compressed they take a set and when relaxed, they fall out of position.

Fully relaxed does not apply as much force or preload and then the reticle may move from shot to shot.
 
Dogleg said:
Maxing out adjustments is bad news; and yes, maxing out the windage can affect the elevation. I’m glad Korth/Leupold is giving you a new scope; confidence is an expensive thing in ammo costs to earn. Its also hard to earn back once its shattered.

My concern is that you’ll put the new scope on and do the same thing again. Maxed out adjustments scream mounting/alignment issues.
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I wonder if this is a case of using the Leupold STD rings and having the rear ring out of whack.
 
Maple57 said:
I agree, its probably not a scope problem exactly but the scope is being tormented by poorly aligned scope rings.

I would focus my energy on correcting that ring alignment problem so the scope centers up better.

No scope likes to live at the limits of its travel where erector tube springs are either fully compressed or fully relaxed.

When fully compressed they take a set and when relaxed, they fall out of position.

Fully relaxed does not apply as much force or preload and then the reticle may move from shot to shot.
Click to expand...



Just an update.. My new Leupold VX3i arrived..

I took the gun with the bases still installed and scope/rings to a shop to have them put together.. I told the guy the issues and before putting on the new scope I wanted him to check the alignment of the rings/bases.. Which he did with the proper tools (I don't have them). He said and showed me how they were bang on.. The issue was never the rings and bases..

He installed the scope with the properly tools..

I'm posting just to put a couple people's opinions to bed that it was the rings/bases. The rings and bases are the same as I had when the scope went bad.
 
Well - If the rifle is shooting hard left or right due to a bad crown, bent barrel, bases aligned but off-axis, you"ll be maxing out the scope again... Leupold is certainly capable of determining whether a scope is pooched or not....
BTW - Do you know the mirror trick for determining if the reticle is off centre? Might be worth checking after your next sight in...
 
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