Lyman 55 powder throwing issues.

CanuckWR

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 98.9%
85   1   1
Ok, I think I am doing something completely wrong. I have followed instructions and done my reading about how to make an accurate and repeatable charge with my lyman 55 but if I am within .5gr I am doing good. What am I doing wrong?

I am using the small slide first, then second and so on, adjusting with the smallest slide first.... She just isn't consistant and its driving me nuts...

Any input and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
 
Ok, I think I am doing something completely wrong. I have followed instructions and done my reading about how to make an accurate and repeatable charge with my lyman 55 but if I am within .5gr I am doing good. What am I doing wrong?

I am using the small slide first, then second and so on, adjusting with the smallest slide first.... She just isn't consistant and its driving me nuts...

Any input and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Mine is exactly the same way with Unique. I remember somebody telling me that the are the cat's meow for black powder, but aren't very good for smokless flake or extruded powders. I'm not even sure where mine is now. I've got an RCBS one that I use now, and it's 100X better than my experiences with my Lyman.
 
I leave both small adjustments closed, then adjust the large slide out only, until I am two or three grains under target. I try to be close enough that only a couple turns, or less, of the largest of the two little guys is required to bring up the right amount.
This is for rifle, where I seldom, or never, use the smallest one.
For small amounts of powder, like 8 or ten, I just use the two little fellers.
On rifle I am usually within one tenth, or a hair more, on powder that cooperates.
It is imperative to always operate the handle the same. I try to click the stop on opening and pull it back with the same speed and pressure every time, as near as possible.
 
I've had one I bought used in early 80's. I've put more than 100lbs of powder through it. Including 30 lbs of 4064 which is a long "stick" powder. Like H4831 for rifle loads I set the large cylinder first then adjust up with middle slide. I weigh every charge and very seldom am I over or under more than 0.1 grain. Use a trickler to bring underweight charges up. I also use the little hammer attached every time. Interesting enough I convinced my nephew to buy a used one and he was having the same lack of consistency problem with his.
I've been fooling around with Trail Boss and cast bullets lately and the TB likes to "hang up" once in a while. Bottom line is I really like my old Lyman. Being consistent in operating may be the secret.

Old Ranger
 
Ok, I think I am doing something completely wrong. I have followed instructions and done my reading about how to make an accurate and repeatable charge with my lyman 55 but if I am within .5gr I am doing good. What am I doing wrong?

I am using the small slide first, then second and so on, adjusting with the smallest slide first.... She just isn't consistant and its driving me nuts...

Any input and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

You need to adjust from large slide to small slide, rough adjust to fine, not the other way around like you have been. Good luck.
 
CanuckWR didn't say which powder, rifle or pistol. Keep powder level 1/2 or more, tap up to fill powder reservoir, tap down to empty same. Use proper size powder funnel(bottom tube, small and large). Consistent rhythm important, flake powders work well for pistol, ball powders very consistent for rifle, IMR types less so. Be patient and experiment.
 
Twice in past little while, I have read about testing done on powder measures, to see which were the most accurate, on both occasions the Lyman 55 came out on top, even over some of the very expensive Culver types. i don't believe they tested a Belding and Mull, but most others.
 
My lyman seems to work within 1/10 grain on stick powder, dead on with ball. Excellent with Trail Boss and red-dot, not sure about the small flakes of Unique. A powder baffle really helps a lot as others have suggested. Throw the charge exactly the same every time and use the whacker to make sure all the powder is rapped out of the metering body when you throw the charge.

Don't know if this makes any difference or not but I try to adjust it so I don't have either of the little slides open more than 50%, if they are then I close and start opening the next largest slide. A tall skinny metering volume is more repeatable than a long flat one... don't know if that makes any sense; measuring a given volume using a skinny cylinder is more repeatable than using a sauce pan.
 
I like my lyman 55 set 2 tenths under and I trickle the rest with my fingers. I weigh every charge. It don't matter what powder, BLC2 to H4350, it never consistently (as in everytime) throws within a tenth of a grain like many others report. I'l get the odd throw 3 or even 4 tenths out. No good for my .223 and I don't even want that for my 308.

Its a pretty good measure and does speed up the process but I only use it to throw charges directly into the case when I'm making plinking rounds.
 
I leave both small adjustments closed, then adjust the large slide out only, until I am two or three grains under target. I try to be close enough that only a couple turns, or less, of the largest of the two little guys is required to bring up the right amount.
This is for rifle, where I seldom, or never, use the smallest one.
For small amounts of powder, like 8 or ten, I just use the two little fellers.
On rifle I am usually within one tenth, or a hair more, on powder that cooperates.
It is imperative to always operate the handle the same. I try to click the stop on opening and pull it back with the same speed and pressure every time, as near as possible.

I was having the same issue with mine. I put in a baffle and it solved it.

I have been using my 55 for over 40 years. First, I close all slides up. I never use the two small slides when loading for a rifle. I use a Rx torsion balance to get my desired charge weighed, dump it into the 55, then gradually pull out all slides together so that the weighed charge appears to fill the "measure", tighten down the two set screws, dump in more powder, slightly over 1/2 full, drop in funnel with about a 1/2" bottom opening, add powder to the funnel.

On the little swinging hammer, I have elastic bands so that when I have dumped, I flick the hammer 3 times, thus ensuring no grains have hung up inside the measure and settling the powder in the reservoir, the funnel IMHO doing a better job than baffles.

After dropping about 5 charges, back into the powder can, I drop a charge and weigh it on my balance. Usually my weight is off by several grains and I then loosen the two screws and try and move the main slide very slightly in or out, without touching the two fine adgustmnet scews for the two small slides and then tighten the two set screws. This is a hit or miss job and with granular powder, & will rarely get it within 1/10 of a grain. Ball powders, of which I have only had expereience with Ball C(2) and H450 are another story. I can usually get the adjustment right on.

Although H4198 uses a small slide for a final adjustment,I try not to because doing adds to the crevice, corners inside which the larger the powder grain, the more deviation.

Another thing, if a long grain powder is being used, do not pull the lever down gently. Do it in one pull, ignoring the slight hesitation when you know that grains are being cut. (Another reason I love ball powders.)
I drop into a loading funnel with the case mouth inserted into the lower end of the funnel., being sure that all pwder has entered the case.

Obviously, to take the time to set the 55 exactly to throw the required weight takes time and IMHO, not worth it for only 20 or 30 rounds. With a
Rx balance, with agate fulcrums or even torsion, I never wait for the pointer to center and stop! I watch to see how far on each side of center, the indicating pointer goes, watching as the oscillations gradually decrease and decide when I have the correct weight, lifting and locking the mechanism. This past week, I weighed 35 charges of 4759, and know that they were all within one powder particle of each other, one being sufficient to change the weight perceptively. This precision was not really required but old habits die slowly.

If I were working up a load going for accuracy and velocity, for one rifle, I would weight every charge as decribed above. Once I found the correct charge, I would then take the time to adjust the Lyman 55 as decribed above, and load sufficient ammo to make the whole process worth while.

And I have at times, got the 55 to within a grain, then dumped into the balance pan and adjusted with a small white McD coffee spoon.

The object in reloading, as in so many aspects of shooting, is to standardize on a procedure that works and then not to deviate from it.

My reloading over the past 15 years has been decreasing and never approached the volume and experience of so many who post here.

Never let it be said that I was sparse with the words.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom