M-14 Flash Hider removal, New method.

john@

john@

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I've seen this mentioned on three threads. Can someone confirm this how its done?

Dent described it as a "shock whack" technique to the base of the weld in line with the barrel, so I'm assuming you need to clamp the barrel upside down in a vise, place a block of brass(?) against the weld and hit it really hard with a sledge. Then do the same for the other weld.

m14fh.jpg


Someone else mentiond you had to unscrew the castle nut and tighten it against the muzzle end of the FH as if it were trying to push it off.

Is that about it?


Update...

So I finally got around to doing it and posting some photos. Once everything was in place it was really easy, took about 5 minutes.

Barrel in vise
Imgp3213.jpg


Before. Barrel supported and tape where I'm going to rest the cold chisel. Note the gap at the castle nut is towards the receiver.
Imgp3217.jpg


After. Three good whacks with the cold chisle on each weld at the tape to fracture the welds, and then about 4 good wacks with the chisle on the bayo lug. Note the gap at the castle nut is towards the muzzle + gap at the tape.
Imgp3218.jpg


At this point it was loose enought I was able to get it off by hand. As you can sort of see, minimal damage to the barrel and the FH.
Imgp3224.jpg


Dlask 4 port comp and Bits of Pieces gas lock front sight.
IMGP3227.JPG


IMGP3229.JPG


IMGP3236.JPG
 
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i remove them with one wack, with a short steel key stock and a 5 lbs hammer. the action is held solid in my barrel vice, with the barrel pointing down. That large rectangular land in your picture..... 1/2 inch ahead of where you are pointing to hit it..... is the correct location.
The method i describe has been used successfully on close to 200 or more rifles i have seen de-flash hidered on my bench ;)
 
The You Tube video explains it well. At the Halifax M14 clinic recently we removed about 6 of these in about the same amount of minutes. We held the barrel pointing down in a vice using soft rubber vice pads - no real need for the barrel vice blocks but they would have been handy.

We used a pointed punch (just a drift punch that had been ground to a point by someone already) to tap between the barrel and the flash eliminator at each spot weld point. Picture the punch laying parallel to the barrel with the point wedged between the barrel and the FE. This was intended to try to pry the FE away from the barrel and load (and hopefully pop) the weld in tension. Two quick taps at each weld spot. We think this helped.

Then one person used a big brass drift to drive the FE down while another person (i.e. me) turned the castle nut to keep it away from the FE.

When the FE is off, just clean up the weld flash on the barrel and the FE with a dremel.

Worked great for us.
 
Question from a newbie: Why remove the FH to begin with? I thought it was cosmetic or ineffective but I heard in the video that some reinstall the same FH sans the spot weld so I assume it has something to do with it? Is the FH necessary at all? Thanks.
 
Basically, here's the "NavyShooter Approved" process.

1. Loosen/remove castle nut locking grub-screw.
2. Loosen castle nut.
3. With a screwdriver or other pointed implement (chisel,etc) place it in the place noted in John's picture (above the weld, against the barrel, in the seam between the barrel and flash suppressor) and give it 2-3 sharp "whacks" with a hammer. *THIS STRESSES THE WELD JOIN*
4. Repeat above the 2nd weld.
5. Get a big brass punch, place on the former bayonet lug support, and give it 3-4 good whacks with a hammer. This will break the welds, and allow the flash suppressor to start moving.
6. Spin off the castle nut as the flash suppressor is slowly tapped down and off.
7. Grind welds (inside of FS) smooth.
8. Re-attach.

Hungry was surprised at how quickly it went. If done right, it takes about 3-4 minutes per rifle.

Hungry here: I was amazed. I was speechless. I went home and tried this technique on my Poly M14 and in 2 minutes, my flash suppressor was off ! Most cool methods! I'm a believer!



NS
 
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Spearhunter said:
Question from a newbie: Why remove the FH to begin with? I thought it was cosmetic or ineffective but I heard in the video that some reinstall the same FH sans the spot weld so I assume it has something to do with it? Is the FH necessary at all? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I have the same question, why remove the flash hider?
 
Hey cool.... that's one of my work benches in that youtube video :D. I believe that was filmed at one of our spring 09 clinics, but we've been doing it that way for 3 years now.

flash hider removal is often done to allow for an after market one to be installed or for those wanting to completely strip the rifle down as the gas system is not removable with a welded on flash hider :p And because in many cases the chinese flash hiders are so out of spec they are unusable as a reliable front sight base. Many are o.k. but many are not.
 
OK fine,
why remove the flashider?

1.] WHAT THOMAS SAID PREVIOUSLY.

2.] Because a large % of the Norc 2007 models had the 8 ring installed backwards.
For many of these rifles, the gas assmbly is quite loose longditudinally, and simply flipping the 8 ring around will provide proper tension of the gas assembly, PROBABLY WITHOUT SHIMS.

Once again,
the other alternative is a chop saw and turning your 14 into a SHORTY!!!
[I AM DOING 4 THIS WEEK ]

LAZ 1
 
Whack the thing with a hammer! It doesn't get simpler than that. A piece of metal as a drift will do a cleaner job. Anyone can do it. Proper tools make the job alot easier, but it comes down to brute force.

I don't believe that they're welded on, but rather some type of hard solder, as there is zero penetration of the two tacks into the barrel.
 
Doc,

I have 3 follow up questions from your 3 point:

M14Doctor said:
1. flash hider removal is often done to allow for an after market one to be installed

2. or for those wanting to completely strip the rifle down as the gas system is not removable with a welded on flash hider :p

3. And because in many cases the chinese flash hiders are so out of spec they are unusable as a reliable front sight base. Many are o.k. but many are not.
Click to expand...

1. Is there functional advantage to after market FH or just cosmetic?
2. Does this apply to the poly m305 as well? If so I guess this is a must-do.
3. If you reinstall the org. FH, is there any parkerizing needed if you grind off the burrs or will the FH cover it? Does the FH need to be repositioned or does it have a detente position when put back?

Thanks.

SH
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but a aftermarket flash suppressor can change the affects of the recoil of the rifle , yes you need to do this to the new Poly's, and the flash hider has three splines that fit into 3 groves, so re installation is simple. The flash suppressor will cover the areas where it was tacked. No fugly scars.
 
Spearhunter said:
Doc,

I have 3 follow up questions from your 3 point:



1. Is there functional advantage to after market FH or just cosmetic?
2. Does this apply to the poly m305 as well? If so I guess this is a must-do.
3. If you reinstall the org. FH, is there any parkerizing needed if you grind off the burrs or will the FH cover it? Does the FH need to be repositioned or does it have a detente position when put back?

Thanks.

SH
Click to expand...

nope , flash hiders are flash hiders for the most part. The Vortex type are preferred but as far as affecting accuracy, I would say no.

yes the Poly's are welded/soldered as well..... and there is indeed weld penetration on some barrels that will need to be gently filed off to put another unit on.... not in all cases but more often than not.

yes there may be burrs to file off, both on the barrel and in the flash hider itself.... depending on the amount of penetration that is on your rifle. Rebluing is a personal choice.... i prefer to do it but it's probably not necessary. Also the flash hiders mount on 3 splineways cut into the barrel and these give it the correct positioning.


There are many reasons to whack the flash hiders off these rifles. For the most part, I'd say 60% of the 2007 norinco rifles i have worked on NEEDED the flash hider to be replaced because they were not machined dimensionally correct. This error caused the flash hider to be a poor and misaligned base for the front sight. leaving may guys thinking they had indexing issues (barrel not screwed in to top dead center) when in fact it was the flash hider itself.
Then there are the guys that want an authentic USGI flash hider with the bayonet lug intact.... or to switch to a smith enterprise or similar muzzle device such as the 'coast guard muzzle break" or one of the many after market M14/M1A muzzle devices that offer a front sight base.

personally, and due to the fact that quality control on the dimesions of the chinese flash hiders are crap...... I knock them off of all my rifles and replace with one that is correctly machined to allow for a correctly positioned front sight.


ONE more reason to knock the flash hider off is to allow for complete stripping of the rifle for custom builds or for those who like to take the rifle down completely. The gas assembly is effectively stuck on the barrel unless the FH can be removed. ALSO as LAZ mentioned.... curing a loose gas cylinder can be accomplished by removing the FH , then removing the gas lock ( 8 ring) and flipping it over and reinstalling.... it generally goes on much tighter. ;)

any more questions :D Fire away hehehe
 
What are the pro's and con's of the short barrel? does it increase recoil, muzzle flip? do you recommand a different flash hider, muzzle brake for it? any noticeable effect on accuarcy, MV over 200m?
 
cantom is right... I like the bayonet lug. It looks like the real M14's found in "Full Metal Jacket!" Brings out the cool factor in the M14 (even if they are Zhinese mfg'ed) :evil:

:cheers:

Barney
 
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