M-14 Flash Hider removal, New method.

There is a limit when it comes to beating off a welded on flashider.
We "obviously" don't want to just beat it until it succumbs.
If a flash hider does not break free with 4 or 5 dead weight blows with a 3 to 5lbs hammer, drilling is the solution. However the same level of care must be taken to not drill into the barrel. You drill to weaken the weld with a 3/16 or 1/4" carbide drill bit, or better yet, we use an endmill. Once the holes are made to desired depth, a dead weight blow with hammer a key stock drift, will break it free.
 
berger said:
I covered the end of the steel with some electrical tape and laid an old rag over the bayo lug bit. No marring whatsoever. I also used a very heavy peen hammer and not a sledge.
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i wouldn't be worried about the finish, more about the unnatural stresses excerted on the barrel and receiver
 
matty86suk said:
i wouldn't be worried about the finish, more about the unnatural stresses excerted on the barrel and receiver
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Are you referring to the vise bit? Not much different than a Gunsmiths vice. I had so much rubber and cloth in there that I didn't have to tighten it down much at all. I also had a butt stock bean bag under the barrell, so there was no hopping around at all.
 
When I practice this there is zero force of any kind on the receiver and the barrel is secured in 2 locations with pecisely fit aluminum vice blocks, but I have a self made assembly.
Prolly have personally knocked off over a 100, have you seen one single post or thread on someones rifle being ruined?
It's a proven method, how about we ask the masses. Everyone on CGN who has used the hammer and drift method of removing your flash hider, please post your success and or horror stories here LOL
 
the forces created by sledging the FH will cause deflection in the barrel at the cantilever(vise) because the chrome lining and barrel steel will deflect at different rates(according to youngs modulus), the risk of the chrome flaking is a possibility, the chroming process is critical to get a optimum chemical bond between the 2 metals(quadruple covalent bond), the chinese are not known for their mastery of metallurgy, this may go un noticed unless bore scoped, so yah 100s of FH have been whacked off(hehehe) but unless the barrel has been bore scoped, who knows if any damage has been done,
sledging may be effective and quick(read lazy) but the science behind it doesn;t look good
i quess you mileage may vary???
 
matty86suk said:
the forces created by sledging the FH will cause deflection in the barrel at the cantilever(vise) because the chrome lining and barrel steel will deflect at different rates(according to youngs modulus), the risk of the chrome flaking is a possibility, the chroming process is critical to get a optimum chemical bond between the 2 metals(quadruple covalent bond), the chinese are not known for their mastery of metallurgy, this may go un noticed unless bore scoped, so yah 100s of FH have been whacked off(hehehe) but unless the barrel has been bore scoped, who knows if any damage has been done,
sledging may be effective and quick(read lazy) but the science behind it doesn;t look good
i quess you mileage may vary???
Click to expand...

Watch the video again. We support the barrel. There is no deflection and no cantilever. That is the whole point of the process. No deflection, no risk of damage. The science is just fine. (BTW, if it helps, I have a degree in engineering, since we seem to be getting into the "qualifications" discussion).
 
I am not an engineer, but I do listen to those more experienced than I, and this mod worked very well. There was no deflection when I hit the steel lug with a pall peen hammer, and the 50 or so rounds I shot after the fact didn't blow up in my face. To be honest, I would be more concerned with drilling the barrel. My .02.
 
Since I have neither a bench vise, sturdy work bench for a vise nor a BFH and drift (though I could get my hands on a BFH from work) I was planning on using a zip disc in my dremel to get the bugger off. I'm not too worried about the finish in that area, since it'll be cut back at some point.
 
Here's a menial/supporting question. Can anyone tell me what size hex key is needed to remove the flash hider castle nut lock screw? I can't seem to get the right size. My metric and my imperial hex sets both have one that is just too small and one that is just too large.

My rifle is a 2007 Norc and I ran it through Hungry's recent clinic here in Halifax. I have been able to get the lock screw out and the FH off but I can't seem to find a hex key that will reliably turn the lock screw.
 
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