M-14S is 20minutes old - Some questions

Keebler750

Keebler750

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I just picked up my Norc M-14S at the post office. Time from order to delivery - 15 days from Marstar, and I had already gotten the CFC reg papers last Thursday.

Lord, it reeks of that oil!! ;)

Now, the first thing I noticed is the front sight is WAY off to the left on the dovetail...I mean HANGING OFF to the left. The whole sight ass'y seems to be not straight up and down, either. Looks like they moved the sight so it would still kinda shoot straight. :rolleyes: Is this what "indexing" is? I haven't cleaned it up enough to really look down the barrel, but it looks suspect already.

Second: The latest orders were supposed to come with a 5/20 rd mag as far as I know. Anyone have problems? I didn't get one. 5/5 instead.

Also, what is a good price for a new, pinned M1A/M-14 5/20 mag at a store? Williams Arms has them for $69 and I think the Marstar ones are new mfg, non-pinned, 5 rd only, long length mags.

Yes, I will be talking to Marstar, but it's after hours right now.

I figured you guys would clue me in to a few things.


K
 
M-14 rifle accessories section

marstar.ca/gf-norinco/M-14S-acc.shtm


M-14 Magazine, 5/20 rnd. 'Long Mag' (new mfg.)

This version retains the outer appearance of the USGI 20 round magazine but cannot hold more than five rounds of ammunition in compliance with Canadian law.

Status: in stock $35.00
 
Get some Simple Green and hot water, and scrub off the cosmoline. I'm afraid I can't help you with your real or percieved sight problem, mine was fine AFAIK. Mine shipped with the short five round mag as pictured in the add.
 
Actually, Rammer, I know about the Marstar price...they didn't ship me the one they said they would :( but they might be out or maybe just an oversight. I'll get that sorted out I'm sure.

I was wondering about actual M1A mags though....Williams has about 6 left, and I'm betting the 5/20s are easier to toss into and out of the mag well. Not sure if I wanted the Marstar ones or not. I wish I had that one that was to have been shipped so I could see how well it fits, etc., and decide.

OTHER than the Marstar price, is the Williams price nuts, or what?
 
I was just at crappy tire, and not thinking too clearly, got some Dunk degreaser, and brake clean for just the metal. (I wouldn't use that on the Chewed-wood!)

I was gonna go heat up the shop and do it out there.

Is the Dunk degreaser a no-no?
 
M-14

Funny, I got one from Marstar in the summer and the front sight is way over to the right as you look down the barrel, I haven't shot it yet so we'll see. The Shooting Edge in Calgary sells 10 round Springfield Armory mags pinned to 5 rounds for $40 I can't comment if they fit the Norincos. Marstar 5/20 round mags are $35 as per their web site and the 5 rounders sell for $19.95 I have had several 5/20 and 5 rounders from Marstar and they have worked flawlessly. The last M14s (5) I got from Marstar all came with only the 5 rounders. I have just ordered another M-14s and don't expect it to come with a 5/20 round mag. I like the norincos because its a gun you can work on and add things to and not worry about wrecking a $2000 rifle. Happy shooting.

JV
 
Keebler750 said:
I was just at crappy tire, and not thinking too clearly, got some Dunk degreaser, and brake clean for just the metal. (I wouldn't use that on the Chewed-wood!)

I was gonna go heat up the shop and do it out there.

Is the Dunk degreaser a no-no?
Click to expand...

I used the brake cleaner as well, but if I was to do it over again, I'd just use Simple Green. I doubt Dunk will be a bad choice, and you are going to have to apply a light oil after cleaning anyway.

Give your op-rod guide a wiggle. Mine was very loose.
 
Heh heh, I still have to positively identify said op-rod parts as I am so new I am still getting it all confused. I downloaded the M1A manual from Sproingfeld, so I hope that helps!!

This will be alot more fun and technical than my bolt guns I'll enjoy learning some more stuff. I have a "quantity" of SA ammo, well.....let's just say, next year is covered. Yeehaw!!!!

:)
 
the springfield mags DO fit the norc- or at least the ones i ordered direct from springfield 10 years ago fit my old norc- these were factoryshort mags and cost 50 bucks a piece back then
 
Sight way over to the left is GOOD. It means the barrel wasn't turned in far enough, and the front sight base is a few dgrees off to the right.

Reindexing will be simple for anyone with the proper tools... tweak it in a bit more.

Sight way off to the right [ just like my last one from Marstar ] = not so good = barrel was turned in a bit too much.

Which means you have to losen it a bit = the metal has already "Crushed" in to the overtorqued position.

EQUALS you need to refit the barrel by distorting the metal back into place [ proper way on a lathe with a roller pressing in ]. Cheapo way with a small hammer, a lot of patience, and a lot of tensy tiny little hits while simultaneously rolling the barrel.

THEN and only then can you refit the barrel to proper "DRAW" = torque specifications and index correctly.

Hope this helps.
[;{)

LAZ 1
 
Keebler, read the sticky in this forum: M14 tips tricks & FAQ. There is a section on degreasing... and re-greasing.

I scrubbed my stock in hot water and murphy's wood soap, came out very nice. Then applied a light coat of boiled linseed oil. looks good.

I think the deal was for 5/5 mag...that's what I got anyway.

re the sight, I hope Laz is not reading us right. My front blade is way off to the right, meaning I have to loosen the hex nut and slide it over on the dove tail... I don't think that it means my barrel is not indexed!!????????

on a related note, my rear aperture is bent :|

My op rod guide was loose, I put some 'gun tite' on it, we'll see how it holds up after few dozen rounds.
 
I just did a bunch of assembly and reassembly...god that's fun!! Did SOME cleaning but not done yet.

My Op Rod guide is not really floppy, just not totally tight. I'd say a couple thou. It'll probably loosen up though.

I noticed what looks like water and oil corrosion sludge in the piston and nut. I'm worried about the barrel because of it. Need to check further.

The biggest concern other than the front sight, is that I can still pull the trigger with the safety clicked to the rear. The hole doesn't enter the trigger guard. I assume that hole is for a padlock? Anyway, I need to look at the trigger group again and see what's going on.

I'm learning fast! Me likes!!

Is there anyway to drop the firing pin gently ie de-#### when closing the action without a simple trigger pull? I hate slamming the pin, and I don't like leaving pressure on my springs. Any advice?

Hungry here: Yes, there is a way to 'drop the hammer' without compromising the strength of the firing pin. Try this... Rack your rifle. Then bring back the op rod handle about half an inch or so. Squeeze the trigger. You will see that the hammer does not have too far to close on the rear of the bolt/firing pin. Have a look. Rack the rifle to the rear once again... bring back the bolt about 3/8" and squeeze the trigger. Now you will look like a pro at gun shows... You learned it right here, the MBR Forum at the CGNutz site !! Damn... I shoulda shown this in one of my videos...
 
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One thing re the safety, the hammer has to be cocked before you can apply the safety. If this is not this issue, again I would strongly suggest that you read the sticky's up top... "test after assembly"

No, other than buying a snap cap, I don't know of anyway to de-#### the M14. Personally I don't mind a minimum of dry firing so maybe I am not the best person to answer that.
Good luck. I can't wait to get her out to the range!

Oh, and I found rust in my gas piston too. I got most of it off with a bronze bore brush. The barrel is chrome lined, so I wouldn't be too worried about rust at this stage of the barrel's life. Nonetheless, a thorough visual inspection and cleaning is in order.
 
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Quote (I noticed what looks like water and oil corrosion sludge in the piston and nut. I'm worried about the barrel because of it. Need to check further.)

Make sure you clean out the gas piston and cylinder, mine was full of chu wood shavings,:confused:
 
Wood shavings!!!!? That might be it. Some were on the op spring, and other stuff too, as well as inside the piston.

I figured out the safety by taking it apart and looking at how it worked, and looking at the diagrams and text :redface: in the M1A Manual. First, it takes a real positive push to set...and it needs to be cocked. DOH. It'd be nice to have a full time safety. ( THIS is my safety :wiggles finger: ) ;)

I actually did figure out how to de-#### it. As you're letting the op rod/bolt move forward, pull the trigger at about 1/2 to 2/3 closed and the hammer will come up and hit the firing pin thingy, but not at full stroke.

It worked for me. (whose saying was that?)

Again, learning as I go.
 
to check indexing:
remove front sight
use two straight edges [two rulers,flat/straight pieces of steel,something simular]
clamp one to the flat area on rear of receiver and the other to the front site mount.

now look down the length of the rifle,if the two pieces are nice and parallel to each other then it is indexed properly.

if they are not,then the indexing is off.

check scullboys sticky on rebarrelling,it shows his set up when he checked for this with the new barrel.

if hungrys downloadable rifle forum is still available,get it.it shows a good step by step.
 
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That's what Skullboy and I are here for!! To help all of you newbsticks become experts and then help everyone else.

Too bad I ain't got no more time to do the travelling Clinics across the country... Too busy running Service Rifle and Tac Carbine matches with the OSA (Operational Shooting Assoc.)
 
Hey, Hungry!!

In post #16 I pretty much said the same thing about de-cocking it. HAH! Beat you to it!!!! LOL ;) Now, since you said it, I had to practice.

Here's an even better way....

If you have the hammer cocked, pull the op rod back until you feel the first mechanical resistance where the bolt is just touching the hammer parts. (It's actually more than 1/2" if you do it this way. Now pull and hold the trigger. The hammer will fall with NO click or force whatsoever. Allow the op rod to move to battery. Voila! De cocked. (You could say 'bobbit-ized' LOL)

Practice, practice, practice!!! ;)

Now, about my barrel indexing...........I know how to do it, just need the tools.
 
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