M-14s Trigger Creep Fixable?

Potshot21

Potshot21

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Hello M-14 gurus!

I just bought my first Norc M-14s. Its a used 2007 in a Troy MCS stock. While dry firing it I noticed that the trigger has tons of creep! When I squeeze the trigger it moves quite a bit before I feel it stiffen up and then break. Can this be fixed? Is this something I should bring to a gunsmith to remedy? I've read the stickies at the top of the MBR forum and didn't see any info on this.

Thanks for any info,

Potshot21
 
I followed a set of instructions for a trigger polish / setup from an old army manual and can say that now after testing almost 90% of the creep is gone and it is now a decent and discernible two stage trigger .

After polishing a few selected areas when i pull the trigger back it stops , no creep , then breaks , and its light enough now that if i try to pull up the slack to fast it can fire without much weight or force being needed but i have yet to set my mind .

Its better than stock , however if you dont feel comfortable doing one yourself i would contact the m14doctor . i believe he does trigger jobs in the 75$-100$ range but dont quote me .

I did my own simply because i didnt care about maybe having to buy a new sear or some other minor piece.
 
M-14s Trigger Creep

One trick is to get a ,hammer spring Plunger set up from a M1 grand .
It will look almost the same but it will have wings that go on ether side of the Hammer and will decrease the amount of creep :D
 
If you have been to my clinics, I teach you how to smooooth up that creep. Take some 800 grit valve grinding compound and tweak the first stage for about 2.5 hrs (the length of 1 Leafs game... Flame suit ON). Then wipe of the oily valve grinding compound and you will notice that your trigger's first stage will be super smooth. NOT LIGHTER :eek: , But Smoother! :p

Hope this helps... Ottawa Clinic coming up this Saturday! ;)

Cheers,
Barney
 
I'd love to go to one of the clinics you put on. Ottawa is a little farther than I could manage. I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for a clinic in either Thunder Bay or Winnipeg.

Thanks for the info guys! I'll see what I can do
 
Chris S thought about the "Winged Plunger & Spring" idea works beautiful for reduce length of pull, plus repeatable trigger pound average and also there is no doubt that Hungry's hockey game trick not only smooth most of the bur's on most Nork trigger's. But it does 1 more great thing. Get's you used to your trigger! I can't remember how far back but there was an M1 grand vid that was posted and there was a part in the vid were there training included dry firing the rifle to get used to the trigger pull and get the flinch out.
1 day I hope Hungry you get to update your clinic video to show this great little technique along with all the other valuable information that you show at your clinic's.
;)
 
I've only had my M-14 a month, and it had a very heavy and very gritty pull the first time I shot it. So I took the trigger mech out when I got home, and cycled the trigger/hammer about 1000 times one night, by hand. Yes, my fingers and hands were raw and sore the next day! But still got significant improvement out of it. But...still had a very pronounced heavy pull right at the very end...did not like.

Looking at the contact surfaces, I could see one was nice and straight, but it's companion was curved/hooked. That didn't look right, and I figured it was the source of the problem.

So I got some valve compound, and put it only on the hooked side, the good side would stay dry so that the geometry would stay the same. I cycled it only about 25 times...and the improvement was so stunning that I began to worry, worry that maybe I might have made the trigger pull too light! Well, I wiped that valve lapping compound totally clean off the trigger mechanism. Then I greased the contact surfaces as some competitors suggest to do, and assembled it into my rifle. Stunning. Very smooth. Light enough for accuracy. But still just enough weight to have total control over the trigger. But the proof would be at the range, live ammo, real recoil (was worried it might be too light and cause "doubling"), and paper targets as proof it worked. Well...it worked VERY well!

But honestly, if the most basic technique of simply working the action 1000 times doesn't solve the issue, or give you what you need, you'd best either send it to M-14Doc, or buy the ".30cal Service Rifle manual" and follow the instructions. I'm told it's VERY easy to screw up the contact surfaces, to the point they are unsafe or junk, with just one too many strokes of a file. Or even the first stroke at an imperfect angle.
 
RickR1100 said:
So I got some valve compound, and put it only on the hooked side, the good side would stay dry so that the geometry would stay the same. I cycled it only about 25 times...and the improvement was so stunning that I began to worry, worry that maybe I might have made the trigger pull too light! Well, I wiped that valve lapping compound totally clean off the trigger mechanism. Then I greased the contact surfaces as some competitors suggest to do, and assembled it into my rifle. Stunning. Very smooth. Light enough for accuracy. But still just enough weight to have total control over the trigger. But the proof would be at the range, live ammo, real recoil (was worried it might be too light and cause "doubling"), and paper targets as proof it worked. Well...it worked VERY well!

But honestly, if the most basic technique of simply working the action 1000 times doesn't solve the issue, or give you what you need, you'd best either send it to M-14Doc, or buy the ".30cal Service Rifle manual" and follow the instructions. I'm told it's VERY easy to screw up the contact surfaces, to the point they are unsafe or junk, with just one too many strokes of a file. Or even the first stroke at an imperfect angle.
Click to expand...

And yes, that imperfect angled stroke will be the one that will cause your rifle to "double" and potentially end up with a slam fire, or firing out of batter and then (you know it's coming.... ;) ) yer #### will fall off!

Cycling it 1000 times is the suggested (and cheaper, too) :cool: method of smoothing out your trigger engagement surfaces especially for that first stage.

You wanna lighter trigger? Buy a SAKO or SAVAGE or Stealth or SPS Varmint! I'm not joking :ninja: !! I'm worried that one day some overzealous M14 lover with a file and a desire for a 1 ounce M14 trigger will have their M14 double on them at a range and then sell that rifle on the CGN EE Forum to some unsuspecting NOOB! :eek:

:cheers:

Barney
 
:agree:
I remeber at 1 clinic that M14Doctor was putting on. He decieded to show everyone how to preform a NM trigger job. That was until 1 guy took a bastard file and tried so hard to take off so much materail that he left gaint groves in the trigger and it was now toast. Oh ya I also came across another person who thought it would be a great idea if he had no second stage at all!
:eek:
It took well over a month just to get the parts to rebuild his trigger. Now ask yourself why don't you see a stickey on how to do a M14 trigger job...
G:
 
Potshot21 said:
Hello M-14 gurus!

I just bought my first Norc M-14s. Its a used 2007 in a Troy MCS stock. While dry firing it I noticed that the trigger has tons of creep! When I squeeze the trigger it moves quite a bit before I feel it stiffen up and then break. Can this be fixed? Is this something I should bring to a gunsmith to remedy? I've read the stickies at the top of the MBR forum and didn't see any info on this.

Thanks for any info,

Potshot21
Click to expand...

It's meant to be a 2 stage trigger. First you take up the slack, then you meet resistance, and it should brake clean on the 2nd stage. You can't do away with the creep / travel of the 1st stage, that is intentional in the design.
 
Grizzlypeg, I beleive your right!

I havent had much experince with 2 stage triggers before. And it seems that the so called "creep" I am experiencing is integral to the design upon further research.

Yes, I'm a real noob with these type of rifles!

I'll have to watch an episode of cops so I can practice dry firing and get used to the trigger pull.

Thanks guys!

Still, any chance of a clinic in Winnipeg or Thunder Bay?
 
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