M&P 9 with a stuck case?

Sounds like you found the issue!
maybe, I know it's something to do with the nickle cases and not a reloading error. The bulge is the problem , but not with them all. We got some more nickle cases yesterday, from the range and they all have a slight bulge. I dropped 50 reloads into my chamber and 1 of them was a little snug.
 
maybe, I know it's something to do with the nickle cases and not a reloading error. The bulge is the problem , but not with them all. We got some more nickle cases yesterday, from the range and they all have a slight bulge. I dropped 50 reloads into my chamber and 1 of them was a little snug.

That bulge is from being shot from a Glock with a minimally supported chamber. They choke my CZ and my dies won't remove it. I have resorted to sorting all my 9mm range pickups and eliminate them from my reloading fodder. Lee sells a die that will remove it.

I gauge all of my 9mm reloads now and that has eliminated a lot of range issues. You will be surprised how many out of a K reloads don't cut it.

M
 
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check with GunGear. Having a squib rod in your bag is handy for times like this. You can skip the chamber gauge and just use your barrel as a checker to.
 
I use either a case gage or the field-stripped barrel to check each reloaded cartridge.

Each completed cartridge should be able to drop into the chamber (or gage) hole under it's own weight,
sit flush (or slightly below) and drop out under it's own weight when inverted.

Any that fail the "plunk" test should be put aside for dis-assembly.

There are special dies that can deal with "guppy brass",
but if you only have a few they should simply be put aside.
 
I talked to some very experienced pistol reloaders at the club today and they all said its a result of an undercharge in your case. That would jive with when you said the factory s&b you fired seemed hotter. Glocked brass is an over stated problem in my experience. I reload my nickel cases 10-12 times before they crack and that's through a gen 3 Glock 17 and a sig 226 which run the same reloads out of the same coffee can. Is your load on the light side of the load data you are using?
 
I talked to some very experienced pistol reloaders at the club today and they all said its a result of an undercharge in your case. That would jive with when you said the factory s&b you fired seemed hotter. Glocked brass is an over stated problem in my experience. I reload my nickel cases 10-12 times before they crack and that's through a gen 3 Glock 17 and a sig 226 which run the same reloads out of the same coffee can. Is your load on the light side of the load data you are using?
I'm ising 5.1 g of CFE pistol , the max is 5.4 . ( I check after every 10 th rnd)All . These loads all have less perceived power than the factory cartridges.
 
Maybe add more powder and try another 100-200 rounds. I usually load close to the max recommended and haven't had any issues since I quit trying to have just enough power to work the slide reliably. I never had any get stuck in the chamber loading light, but had 5 stove pipe out of 200 light loads. I load 5.5 gr of accurate no 5 behind 125 gr LRN and it works every time and is fairly accurate and very minimal leading issues with that load.
 
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