M&P trigger job

saltbait

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Has anyone done the M&P trigger job? Would you recommend?
From what I've read online it drastically improves the trigger!
For those that have done the trigger job would you suggest using a dremel or did you do everything manually?
Any tips as to the step by step process would be appreciated as well!

Thanks
Ben
 
watch videos on you tube, they will show you every step very clearly, its a very easy trigger job to do. S&W changed the sear a couple years back and it takes care of what most of the trigger job does in those vids, a big part was filling the down the sear at an angle instead of being rounded (but as I said the newer sears are now designed with an angle instead of being rounded) as far what tool, use what you have, if you have a dremel use that, I actually used my worksharp knife sharpener with high grit paper to give a polish to all the parts holding the parts with vice grips.
 
I have a more enjoyable way of doing trigger jobs on all my handguns. Firing 5K through them nets you a better trigger and a better shooter.
 
Flat face trigger kit from apex. The only best option out there.

Othee than that, if you dont feel like dropping 300$+, then jist do the sear and firing pin stop. Those 2 are the only defitcits in that firearm.
 
Look up the Burwell trigger job.
As sky52 noted, the sear and firing pin block are the two areas of concern.
If yours has the rounded sear - re-profile it and the edges of the firing pin block. After that take a Dremel with a felt wheel and some jeweler's rouge to them and buff to a shine.
Don't forget about the channel the FPB rides in as it can have rough spots as well.

I've done several M&P's this way and their owners were happy with the results.
 
Has anyone done the M&P trigger job? Would you recommend?
From what I've read online it drastically improves the trigger!
For those that have done the trigger job would you suggest using a dremel or did you do everything manually?
Any tips as to the step by step process would be appreciated as well!

Thanks
Ben

I followed the instructions in a pdf I have, I think it is the Burwell trigger job. I didn't go all the way for the lightest possible trigger so it is still a bit heavy but the break is very crisp with minimal overtravel. I did most of it by hand but chucked the FPB in a drill press to radius and smooth the bottom surface. I very much recommend it.


Mark
 
Put in an Apex sear, polish the firing pin block - and you're done. DO NOT USE A DREMEL unless you like ordering replacement parts, a dremel will positively destroy most of the trigger parts in the gun. I used 2500 and 3000 grit sandpaper and Flitz metal polish, by hand in less than an hour, I did not touch the Apex sear and I did not replace any springs.
 
Install a lighter trigger return spring and an Apex FPB and you have a very good trigger for around $30. if mu memory serves me right. Forget a dremel, not the tool for a trigger job.

Take Care

Bob
 
Thanks guys! I have a steel file that I'll use and a wet stone to polish. Might give it the slightest touch with the polishing wheel of the dremel too, but I'll rethink that.
I'll post an update once the trigger job is complete!
 
I would agree that a high round count gets the job done. I did this myself. I then put the Apex kit in. It's just fine but with a few alterations of the stock components you would be 95% of the way there. I also did this and put them back in the gun to test. Either way(s) you can get a good shooter. Select Shooting Sports should have the Apex goodies. They are in Cambridge Ontario.
 
I added the Apex spring kit and polished the trigger bar and sear with a DREMEL!!!! :O :O oh no! use the right bits for the job and you'll be fine, I used the blue rubber polishing bits and they work excellent and don't remove any material. The gun now has a nice crisp 4lb pull every time. Its my GF's gun so Iam sure she doesn't realize the difference. But I sure do.
 
Just got a new M&P Pro CORE and the trigger was way nicer out of the box than the other 3 M&P's I own. I swapped the one out with the APEX curved trigger and Hard Sear plus polished the striker stop and the 2nd with an Apex Forward Set Sear kit and flat faced trigger, 3rd one is stock with the Burwells trigger job. Interesting story is the one with the Apex FSS is a Performance Center Ported PRO CORE and likely had the worst trigger out of all of them, hence the APEX swap. The new non-performance center CORE was way better.
 
I still have an Apex sear NIB, might install just to see if it's any better, but out of the box it's on par with my Glock 3.5#.
 
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