M1 Carbine ejection issue

elvis3006

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My M1 Carbine ejects every second or third spent casing off my head lol ! I shoot left handed and never experienced this before with other M1 Carbines. Is this an ejector and or spring problem ? I replaced the op rod spring with a new one and this didn't stop the issue. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you. Rob
 
buy a bolt assembly/disassembly tool and replace the ejector spring and ejector, as well as the extractor and extractor spring, parts are 75+ years old. DO NOT try to disassemble the bolt without the proper tool unless you are a masochist.
 
buy a bolt assembly/disassembly tool and replace the ejector spring and ejector, as well as the extractor and extractor spring, parts are 75+ years old. DO NOT try to disassemble the bolt without the proper tool unless you are a masochist.

I endorse this recommendation. Don't ask how I know this. You might try shortening the ejector spring a bit to alter the ejection pattern. Clean and oil it as well.
 
Is it a usgi gun? If so, it likely just needs a more thorough cleaning of the bolt. Possibly a new ejector spring.

I'd change extractor spring first and see how that goes.
I had that issue with one M1 and the extractor spring cured it, similar issues with M14 and Garands at one point or another and same cure.
Cases should be ejected to the 2-3 o'clock position, which requires a strong extractor spring, has to hold the case in place the full recoil motion of the bolt, then starts kicking it out at full rear/forward motion.
 
The military never paid too much attention to ejection patterns. What mattered was that the spent casing was extracted and ejected to clear the way for the next round.

Some pieces can be quite fickle. A properly lubed Garand will normally eject spent cases into the 12-3 o'clock zone, but there are exceptions. 7.62 Garands are quite unpredictable and will often eject cases more randomly and further. This can be remediated by trimming a bit from the end of the ejector spring.

The most predictable piece I ever had was a 1914 DWM Luger which would eject cases straight up; up,up they would go twirling end over end until they landed on my head. A female shooter would have needed to wear a blouse buttoned at the neck to avoid a painful intrusion by hot brass.:eek:

The BREN ejected its cases downwards, which wasn't a bad idea.
 
The ejection force of a .30 carb can be regulated by diligent reloading. My Underwood will eject factory ball brass half way across my yard ...almost unfindable afterwards so when i started reloading for it, I purposely started light loading it so the action wouldnt function totally and increased powder until I had a round that would just reliably make the gun function.
the ejected rounds are predictable and hit the ground within 2 ft of me...also I think it reduces the chance of cracking the bolt lugs like GI models have been known to do . Long time since I did the experimenting but I think I remeber the rounds to be around 1750 fts.
 
The ejection force of a .30 carb can be regulated by diligent reloading. My Underwood will eject factory ball brass half way across my yard ...almost unfindable afterwards so when i started reloading for it, I purposely started light loading it so the action wouldnt function totally and increased powder until I had a round that would just reliably make the gun function.
the ejected rounds are predictable and hit the ground within 2 ft of me...also I think it reduces the chance of cracking the bolt lugs like GI models have been known to do . Long time since I did the experimenting but I think I remeber the rounds to be around 1750 fts.
Cracking of lugs has mainly to do with bolt to receiver relation. Hot loads may increase risk of crackng lugs but slowing down to 1750 wouldnt be necessary. Ive been reloading to full power and shooting USGI carbines for over 20yrs and thousands of rounds. Never had issues with any bolts cracking and minimal FTF when using good mags.
 
The ejection force of a .30 carb can be regulated by diligent reloading. My Underwood will eject factory ball brass half way across my yard ...almost unfindable afterwards so when i started reloading for it, I purposely started light loading it so the action wouldnt function totally and increased powder until I had a round that would just reliably make the gun function.
the ejected rounds are predictable and hit the ground within 2 ft of me...also I think it reduces the chance of cracking the bolt lugs like GI models have been known to do . Long time since I did the experimenting but I think I remeber the rounds to be around 1750 fts.

CMP says the GI load is 110grn FMJ and 15grn of H110..which I'd under 2000 fps. I had it cycle down to 14 grn. But I settled for about 14.8. Gets me under 3" at 100.
 
Cracking of lugs has mainly to do with bolt to receiver relation. Hot loads may increase risk of crackng lugs but slowing down to 1750 wouldnt be necessary. Ive been reloading to full power and shooting USGI carbines for over 20yrs and thousands of rounds. Never had issues with any bolts cracking and minimal FTF when using good mags.

Im sure that the force of the round has a measurable relationship to how hard that bolt to receiver collision is and Im happy both you and I havent had any cracking issues...so far...

My rounds have served me well, shoots to 3/4 in group at 100 (new Tradex Barrel) and I have killed a couple or 3 deer with them so for peace of mind I will continue with them.
 
Ww2 era testing of the m1 carbine showed the always fail on the right lug, and that the added bidirectional force of the slide is a contributing factor.

That said, failed m1 carbine bolts are rare with issue ammo.

Bolts are not rare and I honestly would not worry about it.
 
Oh, the carbine slide. This piece had several variants throughout the war, and each of them created a different ejection pattern. I have three carbines; some eject forward, some eject backward.
 
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