M1 garand help rebuild

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gunsdora

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New to the M1 Garand & would like to complete it. I pic up some parts.I was told What is missing is a Barrel & complete bolt ??? . Receiver is a Springfield ser.# 535417* a guess date 44 / 45??. Trigger H., Slide is Springfield. Would any one now were I could get a Springfield barrel is there a date ?? on the barrel That I would look for plus a bolt. Stock Would say post war ?? would there be any markings to look for. Bolt in pic is no good was welded at both ends of were the firing pin goes.











 
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Do you want to restore to original configuration or make it a functional shooter?

For a functional shooter you can get a new barrel in .308 for cheaper ammo (do a search for Vulcan gun works, they carry them), and look up zdragunov on the EE here, he and possibly others are selling new in the wrap bolts.

To restore to original you're going to have to do a bunch more research and lots of digging around to get the period correct parts etc...
 
John thanks for the info. I'm going to try to restore. I got to find out the year of f the receiver then what #'s on the bolt & barrel I need ??? . I think this will be a little more work then the M1 carbine but still looks like fun .
 
"...Slide is..." There is no slide. You have what appears to be all the parts except the internal bolt parts. Those would be the firing pin, extractor and springs. Plus the assorted pins. Other than the cost, you can get 'em from Gunparts. No daft export rules for M1 Rifles, except for barrels. So finding a Springfield barrel may by problematic.
You'll need to find a smithy who has the tools to install a barrel too. Drop in parts they ain't.
"...#'s on the..." Those are drawing numbers that include the year of manufacture. If somebody tells you they have matching numbers, run away from that guy. M1 Rifle part numbers do not match and have nothing to do with the serial number.
Go here and download the assorted TM's and FM's. PDF format and free. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. No W's. biggerhammer.net/manuals/
The year of manufacture can be had here. No W's. oldguns.net/sn_php/milmods.htm
 
Looks like you just need a barrel and bolt guts from a glance, do yourself a favour and order a Krieger barrel (Mystic Precision can bring them in, and North Shore Barrels) and you'll be amazed what a Garand can do. Junky service barrels are a large part of the reason Garands are thought to be less accurate than M14s, a Krieger M1 barrel changes everything. I shoot mine accurately out to 1,000 yards and have no trouble hitting a silhouette at that range with good ammo and NM sights. It'll still look stock but be a lot more satisfying to shoot.
 
Think that the OP mentioned the firing pin hole on both end welded, so would opt for complete new bolt... ...the elevation knob (external bit) is pooched; however, should be able to scrounge one easily enough.
R
 
If the bolt is welded close, probably parts from a drill rifle. Suggest getting the receiver MP non-destructively tested.

The op-rod spring and probably hammer spring should be replaced too.

I hope you have a big budget, lot of parts to be purchased even to make it into a shooter.
 
either zdragunov or I can supply a barrel.you need a new rear sight elevation pinion.
if you buy a used barrel then someone just has to install it to the receiver and index it and check headspace.
however,if you purchase a new barrel then the barrel has to be installed,indexed and finish reamed(a new barrel is "short chambered" meaning that the chamber is unfinished.metal must be removed from the chamber with a special reamer to the required headspace)
either of us can also supply a new complete bolt.
i'm sure there are others on this site who have parts-i suggest you put a want to buy in the equipment exchange.
 
Got to find the date of the rec. & look for a bolt & barrel to match the rec. That should be fun. The bolt I have that is no good #'s 6528287-SA A14 & I don't now if it is correct to the rec.. I can get a bolt with the # B14. I was told that some of the #'s on the bolt is a manufacture date ???. If I cant get it correct then will go with other parts. Will check with the guys mentiond obove. What kind of markings did the post war stock have if any ??.
 
There are two numbers on the bolt. The longer one is the drawing number and the other is heat lot code.
On post war (drawing number starts with 65) it goes something like:
US1 4,20X,### to 4,22X,###
J1B 4,20X,### to 4,22X,###
US2 4,24X,### to 4,28X,###
A-10 4,24X,### to 5,32X,###
A11 4,24X,### to 5,32X,###
A13 5,29X,### to 5,43X,###
A14 5,33X,### to 5,86X,###
A15 5,42X,### to 5,96X,###
B-2-O
Z1 5,8XX,### to 5,900,000
Z2 5,8XX,### to 5,900,000
Z3 5,8XX,### to 5,899,000
A16 5,9XX,### to 5,999,000
Z4B 6,08X,### to 6,090,000
Y01 5,79X,### to 6,09X,###
Y02 6,08X,### to 6,09X,###
J-1-A
 
"...if it is correct to..." You can spend a lot of time and money tracking down 'correct' parts and you'll still have a rebuilt rifle. Correct parts does absolutely nothing for the value.
 
First time with the M1 Garand. Not doing it for value. Doing it for a pass time & it's fun. Was offered the parts & thought it would make a change from playing with the on M1 carbines. It just needs a bolt & barrel I hope . Still got to get some info on the stock .
 
I've had fun returning Danish Garands back to original Italian parts too... ...not big expense in trading off parts, but can take a while.
R
 
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