M1 Garand restoration ...

one more

Garand-04-1.jpg
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Winchester-1897 said:
I made a trade for a 1954 IH with a fellow gun nut a couple of years back and it came with a synthetic stock of which I was not to fond with. I checked out several sights looking for a Stock set which was made for the IH rifle. I located and bid on one I liked on EBAY after I was sure it was IH made.

Here is a pic

Garand-04.jpg
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The dead giveaway on an IHC stock is the 4 digit julian date stamped in the barrel channel.
 
Otokiak said:
can14, the handguard closest to the receiver is like a M14 one and only has a clip holding it on ... however, the front handguard I cannot get off ... I'll try your suggestion. I know I have a M1 Garand manual somewhere.

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
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Sometimes the front end can be a bear to dis-assemble because of accumulated fouling or galling between the stainless steel components. You can flush the front end with bore solvent and/or penetrating oil first. Use a 1/4" socket drive in the gas plug to remove a tight one.
If the lock is stuck in place, grasp it in the padded jaws of a vice grip (not tight enough to deform the lock though) and turn it off after securing the barrel and gas cylinder on a workbench with a padded clamp. Sometimes it may be necessary to stike the vicegrip handle if the metal to metal contact between the rear of the lock and the face of the gas cyl has deformed or become galled. Roughness or deformed metal on the rear face of the lock or front face of the gas cyl can be removed before assembly by placing a sheet of emery on a flat surface (piece of glass or steel) and rubbing the surface against it while maintaining the part at a 90 deg angle to the abrasive surface.
After removing the plug and lock, a tight gas cyl can be driven off by tapping a hardwood block applied to the rear of the bayo lug with a hammer.
You need a special tool to remove the rear handguard clip from the handguard otherwise there is a high probability of cracking/breaking the edges of the handguard around the clip. To remove the handguard from the barrel without removing the clip, invert the rifle on the bench with the stock removed and insert a punch in the holes at the bottom of the clip. The clip can then be levered out of the barrel grooves and the handguard forced downwards. It is a good idea to pad the barrel where the punch contacts it in order to avoid marring the finish. To install the handguard with clip attached, put a bit of grease on both sides of the clip where it engages the barrel grooves, insert the front end of the handguard in the lower band, and apply downward pressure on the clip until it pops into the barrel grooves. Only apply pressure to the clip. If you push down on the wood, rather than the clip, there is a high risk of cracking the handguard.
 
Dang seems it's gonng be more work then I thought to remove this fn thing. Also BOYDS in the US sucks ballzzzz as I can't get a complete stock order unless I order the 3 pieces seperately for a stock/handguards ... 911 farked us all now with US sales ... DGR has beyond beautiful wood stocks I'd purchase in a heartbeat ... yet I cannot ... sigh! :(

Otokiak
Rankin inlet, NU
CANADA
 
Otokiak said:
Dang seems it's gonng be more work then I thought to remove this fn thing. Also BOYDS in the US sucks ballzzzz as I can't get a complete stock order unless I order the 3 pieces seperately for a stock/handguards ... 911 farked us all now with US sales ... DGR has beyond beautiful wood stocks I'd purchase in a heartbeat ... yet I cannot ... sigh! :(

Otokiak
Rankin inlet, NU
CANADA
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Oto why not just buy one of the stocks that's for sale in the EE. Or are u looking for something special.
 
Oto why not just buy one of the stocks that's for sale in the EE. Or are u looking for something special.
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Bart212, the ones in the EE are TWICE the price you could/should be able to purchase from the USA ... but of course 911 f'd us on those type of deals nowadays ... plus DGR(google M1 Garand DGR) has the most beautiful looking stocks I've ever seen ... I wanna restore my Garand to original parkerizing look with a nice Bastogne wood stock they have ... tiger-stripping in the wood ... they're beautiful.

Otokiak
Rankin inlet, NU
CANADA
 
Well finally a nice looking stock comes up on the EE at a decent price and of all things it's a DGR stock/handguard deal ... I pay for it ... only to have FRICKEN canada post to go on strike ... GRRRR just when i thought i'd get rolling on this project again. Now to save some $$$ to send my rifle to "murdoc" for the metal work back to original color. :D I wish i had a ton of Garands as I love shooting them.

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA

p.s. Winchester 1897 I love your garand ... beauty! :D
 
Otokiak,

I still have your stock. I did not send it yet because a buddy at CP said the #### was going to hit the fan...and it did. I am sending it CANPAR tomorrow.

The DGR I am sending you is the fancy variety, it will get you close to what you wanted, nice stock. Be careful putting it back together the hand guards are a match for the woodgrain on the stock.

Have fun, garands are like a virus! I never thought they would bite me as bad the the 1911's did, they are down right addictive.
 
Sweeeeeeeeeet. Will canpar ship via airplane as everything is flown in up here as we have no roads south??? If not, hold it until the strike is over. I can't wait to see it and dress up my Garand. Thanks again for the deal. :D :D :D Cheers,

Otokiak
Rankin inlet, NU
CANADA
 
I will confirm the CANPAR tomorrow. I did not want to let the stock get kicked around the CP warehouse while the strike was on. It is a nice example with lots of amazing grain in it, you will like it.

If you need any help getting your garand apart let me know. I can source parts for you as well.

Cheers
 
I received the stock & handguards from pocketfisherman ... it's a DGR M1 Garand stock and it's a beauty! Now I need to get my rifle beadblasted and reparked to original finish. Hope you like it as I love it! Thanks pocketfisherman,

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA

DGRm1garandstockhandguards.jpg
 
Let's see a pic millright.

Northman999 thank you as these pics don't do this stock/handguards justice ... can't wait to get this old girl fixed up. Cheers,

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
 
supernova said:
Otokiak, to dissasemble the rear sight, there is a small flathead screw on the windage knob. Hold the elevation knob while loosening it, it wont come out but you will feel the threads clear the center pin. Next unscrew the windage knob counterclockwise until it is free from the sight assembly. Now you can pull the elevation knob and center pin out, then slide up the aperture and remove it. Next you need to free the spring and sight base from the receiver by lifting the sight base and using a flathead screwdriver between the bottom on the sight base and receiver (where your windage hash marks are) push the sight base forward while gently rotating the screwdriver until the spring pops out of its groove. Be sure to wrap a patch or something around the screwdriver to protect the parts from getting marred up. Give everything a cleaning and regrease before reassembly. Place the sight base back into the spring and instal by placing the front of the spring in its groove in the receiver and pop the back of it into the other groove. Next slide the aperture back in and all the way down, then you want to install the elevation knob with the long hash mark under the 200 yd. mark ligned up with the mark on the receiver. Next, slide the sight base over to the left-most windage hash mark from center and slide the windage knob back in, tightening clockwise. The sight base will move back to the right as you do this. Once its back to about the middle hash mark, tighten the flathead screw until it begins to click. You want it to take a bit of force to turn the windage knob, but not excessive, usually just a couple clicks of the screw. That should do it. A guy I work with bought an H&R Garand in a similar stock. Lightweight but very out of place. I like my WW2 vintage wood with all its battle scars. I often wonder how it got each one, where its been and what it has witnessed. I was thinking about trying some VHT Flame proof ceramic spray bomb, its held up amazingly well on my Tri-z's heat shield. Its one tough coating, I tried scratching it with an old bearing race and was barely able to leave a mark with presure that would have gouged aluminum. Supposed to be good to 2000 deg. F. when properly cured. Its a nice flat black that looks good. I would try searching for good USGI wood to see what turns up just to keep it authentic, But the Boyds stock is the route I'll probably take with mine. Good luck and keep the pics and info coming :D
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Please... Oh God... PLEASE... break this in to paragraphs next time...
 
Pics up a little later.Busy cleaning a DCRA No 4Mk1* at the moment. The stock is for a Garand I bought that came with a plastic stock ( I like it actually) Its a SA 1944. Will be keeping it as it is other then putting the wood away for now. I have some troubleshooting to do with it first.It likes to eject the enbloc on the seventh round. Been on the web and found some answers so will be trying it out a little later so see if it works fine.

Also bought a Italian made Danish stamped M1 as well.Got the fever
 
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