M1 Garand timeing issue FIXED
- Thread starter blista77
- Start date
i would hope it be the spring but to me it doesnt look like anything wrong with it, idk ill prob just put the gun back together and put her in the safe, i dont shoot much theses days ( gone to the range 3 times in 5 months and hunting once this year, seem to of lost interest in shooting, but i still like collecting)
mcpherson284
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Try pulling the recoil spring and op-rod follower. This will allow you to move everything freely, leave the stock off and reinstall the trigger group. Take a loaded en-block and slowly slide it in. When it engages, there will be a notable metallic click. with the bolt open (here is the reason for removing the recoil spring), try pushing up on the Enblock/Rounds. as you do this, pay attention to the clip latch.
What is the result of this?
What is the result of this?
mcpherson284
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
lol, I hear Wanstalls has them, the parts will cost you $1,800 and the rifle is free!
Best thing you can do is sit down with some one that can trouble shoot the rifle.
OK, the op rod is supposed to be bent. They were all bent for proper fit at the time of manufacture/assembly. To check for proper op rod fit do the "tilt test" as follows;
1 Strip the rifle so that you have the barreled action with handguards and gas cylinder in place.
2. Remove the op rod spring and follower rod as well as the bullet guide, follower, follower arm, op rod catch, and follower arm pin.
3. Install the bolt and op rod and hold the rifle in a horizontal position, then alternatively tilt the muzzle and receiver end up to a 60 degree angle. The bolt and op rod should move freely and the bolt should fully open and close from the weight of the bolt and op rod alone. If this is the case the op rod fits properly and it should be left alone.
Bending or re-bending an op rod for correct fit is a time consuming process which requires considerable experience. The op rod does not affect timing, which is the release of the bolt at the proper time as the en bloc clip in inserted into the receiver and engages the clip latch. The proper timing of your rifle is affected by the other parts which were previously mentioned.
1 Strip the rifle so that you have the barreled action with handguards and gas cylinder in place.
2. Remove the op rod spring and follower rod as well as the bullet guide, follower, follower arm, op rod catch, and follower arm pin.
3. Install the bolt and op rod and hold the rifle in a horizontal position, then alternatively tilt the muzzle and receiver end up to a 60 degree angle. The bolt and op rod should move freely and the bolt should fully open and close from the weight of the bolt and op rod alone. If this is the case the op rod fits properly and it should be left alone.
Bending or re-bending an op rod for correct fit is a time consuming process which requires considerable experience. The op rod does not affect timing, which is the release of the bolt at the proper time as the en bloc clip in inserted into the receiver and engages the clip latch. The proper timing of your rifle is affected by the other parts which were previously mentioned.
From what you have described you do not have a timing problem with this rifle. Rather, you seem to be experiencing what is known as a premature cartridge clip ejection malfunction (as the rooster said, "I say that's "ejection" boy, not "ejaculation"
) where one or more loaded rounds are ejected along with the clip latch.
After eliminating a worn/deformed en bloc clip, the following parts are most likely to contribute to this problem; clip latch spring, clip latch, follower rod, follower arm and op rod catch. Rather than throwing a bunch of gold at this, I'd suggest eliminating the comparatively cheap clip latch spring first. I'd look for one that is certified as new as it is virtually impossible to judge wear on these by eye alone. Brownells sells a heavy duty clip latch spring which would be worth a try. In the interim you might try stretching your current clip latch spring a bit and see what happens. Make sure that the big end of the spring is seated in the circular clip latch recess. The smaller end fits over the "tit" inside the clip latch cutout of the receiver.
) where one or more loaded rounds are ejected along with the clip latch.After eliminating a worn/deformed en bloc clip, the following parts are most likely to contribute to this problem; clip latch spring, clip latch, follower rod, follower arm and op rod catch. Rather than throwing a bunch of gold at this, I'd suggest eliminating the comparatively cheap clip latch spring first. I'd look for one that is certified as new as it is virtually impossible to judge wear on these by eye alone. Brownells sells a heavy duty clip latch spring which would be worth a try. In the interim you might try stretching your current clip latch spring a bit and see what happens. Make sure that the big end of the spring is seated in the circular clip latch recess. The smaller end fits over the "tit" inside the clip latch cutout of the receiver.
well guys i think i got the gun fix finally, i just order a latch spring from tradeex cost me a hole $3.50, just put it in the gun and cycle all 8 of my dummy ammo so i think she is fix, ill take her to the range sometime soon, thanks for all the help guys
so i think she is fix, ill take her to the range sometime soon, thanks for all the help guys
